Aussie Made Durable Hydrometers And Carboys

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How would you attach the 'snap tap' linked above to a carboy, there is no thread on it, and the only inlet/outlet is the neck of the bottle?

You can attach an inner nut and washer that can be tightened to seal... and then it simply unscrews.. doesn't need a thread on the bottle ;)
 
I like my better bottle because there is less to sanatize but find that the "big" 23L one to small as I get heaps of yeast in my blow off bottle. If I used an air lock it would be gumed up every time. So now I use it for secondary.
I would consider buying a 30L carboy but the neck on them would make them very tall so I don't think they'd be all that practical, I'll just stick to the "coopers" style fermenter for primary if bunnings would sell 30L ones that would be great.
 
I've looked into better bottles with respect to ageing lambics.

Not having to deal with glass is good as is the reduced oxygen penetrability

The bottle itself is comparable to glass in price bit the associated fittings are verging on ridiculous

Cheers
 
Tell you what,

If you make a copy of the better bottle with an increased volume and height, you may do well. The biggest issues I hear people have with these fermenters is volume and flexibility.

That said, I'd be interested if you make some affordable see through PET conical fermenters... like these HDPE versions available in the USA
 
actually, it occurs to me that it would be fairly easy to diy a hydro, the only worry would be accuracy. I think though that the next time I break a glass one I'll be keeping the paper scale out of it to mess around with. Just need some sort of plastic tube with a weight in the bottom.

As for a better fermentor, I'd love to see a square one that is stackable with air locks, and a large opening. I hate not being able to see in my fermentor, but I don't like the shape of carboys and gladwrap always seemed too fragile for me to trust. Drop something on there and I've contaminated my batch.
 
I have a coopers plastic hydrometer and while its robust (dropped it dozens of times and treat it rough) I question its accuracy. it reads 0.997 in tap water @20C...so I just add .003 on to all my readings, but Im far from convinced that this is good enough...so it has actually made me become even more lazy in my practices and I rarely bother recording OG and FG any more...whats the point if you cant trust the measurements? Now I just make beer...ferment for min 10 days and its all good. Occasionally I start thinking about getting a bit more technical and working out my efficiencey etc, but the lack of confidence in my measurements persuades me that I cant really be bothered!
 
You could buy a new one... :unsure:
 
so just floating an idea... what about a more of a rounded square fermenter, with a stackable lid, say the airlock came around the side so another fermenter sould be "stacked" on top... still easy to clean... clear PET, like a BetterBottle... but more of a "coopers" style fermenter in design... so a screw off lid... thoughts?

If a VERY accurate plastic hydrometer was available, or even a Stainless Steel one, etched in readings so they don't come off with age...
 
If a VERY accurate plastic hydrometer was available, or even a Stainless Steel one, etched in readings so they don't come off with age...


I supose most here would be interested, it would come down to price point and I think most of us here know some thing like that in SS would cost, to make the sale units would have be consistently accurate.
just my 2c
 
I supose most here would be interested...

Maybe.

Im not trying to piss on anyones parade, and i know this will open a can of worms but with all of the charts available for refractometers all over the web, i really dont understand why everyone is hell bent on using a hydro.

I switched to a refractometer for ALL READINGS years ago and havent looked back. One of the best investments ive ever made to my brewery.

I know ill get flamed for this but i dont really care. Refractometers, once youre used to conversion charts greatly outweigh hydros in useability (in my opinion), that i dont see the point of using a hydro at all.

And, as a result, i no longer own one.
 
Maybe.

Im not trying to piss on anyones parade, and i know this will open a can of worms but with all of the charts available for refractometers all over the web, i really dont understand why everyone is hell bent on using a hydro.

I switched to a refractometer for ALL READINGS years ago and havent looked back. One of the best investments ive ever made to my brewery.

I know ill get flamed for this but i dont really care. Refractometers, once youre used to conversion charts greatly outweigh hydros in useability (in my opinion), that i dont see the point of using a hydro at all.

And, as a result, i no longer own one.

Good point.
 
I use a betterbottle (non ported) and love it. I've seen the ported ones, but have no interest in them. One of the likes from this system i have is racking off with a SS cane. The original fermentation vessle has no parts, and is very easy to clean and manage. Then again, so is just about any other ferment unit. As per the flexing, i don't understand the issues. I move mine around in a milkcrate (which it fits perfectly) and don't find the existing "flex" to be an issue i'd concern myself with. If it was, i'd get a carboy strap system for lifting. In terms of cost, i only find them expensive in Australia. Better bottle parts are cheap in the states. Then again, we're on the other side of the world so what have you. Though the 6 gallon one can be had for $57.54AUD (by my math) delivered from the states. I'd be hard pressed to get one delivered locally for that, though a friend in the states paid $19.99 for his 6gal one the other day :(

The only thing i'd move to would be a glass carboy. Though, i've got a sharp eye on the conicals with temp control too.

I don't think there is much ground to be made here....a locally made conical with temp control for a grand would be good :)
 
Maybe.

Im not trying to piss on anyones parade, and i know this will open a can of worms but with all of the charts available for refractometers all over the web, i really dont understand why everyone is hell bent on using a hydro.

I switched to a refractometer for ALL READINGS years ago and havent looked back. One of the best investments ive ever made to my brewery.

I know ill get flamed for this but i dont really care. Refractometers, once youre used to conversion charts greatly outweigh hydros in useability (in my opinion), that i dont see the point of using a hydro at all.

And, as a result, i no longer own one.
So thats why the tax department want you to use calibrated hydrometers and not flukey refractometers ?
Useability maybe better, accuracy not.
Nev
 
So thats why the tax department want you to use calibrated hydrometers and not flukey refractometers ?
Useability maybe better, accuracy not.
Nev

Nev, with all due respect, i read a lot of your postings, and because of these, i KNOW you are a vastly more experienced brewer than me, and i will gladly admit it, but my accuracy has changed for the better since using my refractometer.

And i dont lose unnecessary volume each time i take a reading.

Each and to their own, but i honestly wont ever use a hydro again. Refractometers are so simple, very accurate, and i dont understand why some brewers get so confused about their usage.

You are a much more experienced, and no doubt a better brewer than me, but these are my findings.

I can replicate each batch of beer i brew time and time again, within 100ml or so of end product at the same gravity. Close enough for me.

EDIT: whats the tax dept. got to do with anything?
 
Is be more interested in a basic stainless fermentor of 25litres.like a bunnings fermentor only stainless.it woldnt need to be thick walled and to heavy-duty I'd imagine.
 
Still dont get it....

I have had a few ales tonight, but whats the difference between head brewer at (insert generic brewery name here) using whatever piece of measuring equipment he or she is most comfortable using when it comes to tax excise?

Repeatable results to keep the bean counters happy regardless? Exactly. Who gives a shit.

On the home brewer level, if you can avoid having to take superfluous quantities out of your single keg batch of your greatest beer ever, yet retain the same (or an increased) level of accuracy, by taking a small enough sample to yeild three drops worth of wort, why wouldnt you?

Confused.....

I stand by my comments regarding the accuracy of MY brewing, and the functionality, of using a refractometer vs hydrometer.
 
Still dont get it....

I have had a few ales tonight, but whats the difference between head brewer at (insert generic brewery name here) using whatever piece of measuring equipment he or she is most comfortable using when it comes to tax excise?

Repeatable results to keep the bean counters happy regardless? Exactly. Who gives a shit.

On the home brewer level, if you can avoid having to take superfluous quantities out of your single keg batch of your greatest beer ever, yet retain the same (or an increased) level of accuracy, by taking a small enough sample to yeild three drops worth of wort, why wouldnt you?

Confused.....

I stand by my comments regarding the accuracy of MY brewing, and the functionality, of using a refractometer vs hydrometer.
Your refacto is good at a home brew level and its quick to indicate a gravity.
Second point is the tax dept (excise) will not give you a license to sell alcohol until they approve your method of measuring starting and final gravity and supplying a valid formula to calculate the alcohol content.
They are very anal, and I havent seen a situation where they have allowed a refactometer to be used as it cant be calibrated.
The hydros pro use must be calibrated not off the shelf HB stuff.
Your points are valid I just wanted to expand on the topic.
Nev
 
Second point is the tax dept (excise) will not give you a license to sell alcohol until they approve your method of measuring starting and final gravity and supplying a valid formula to calculate the alcohol content.
They are very anal, and I havent seen a situation where they have allowed a refactometer to be used as it cant be calibrated.
The hydros pro use must be calibrated not off the shelf HB stuff.

point taken, but not sure why this point has come up as i dont know who is trying to go commercial?

I am sure that THE HYDRO used in commercial applications differs in accuracy / tolerances to the ones offered by Dr. Tim and family..or god forbid, Mr. Brigalow...
 
Still dont get it....

I have had a few ales tonight, but whats the difference between head brewer at (insert generic brewery name here) using whatever piece of measuring equipment he or she is most comfortable using when it comes to tax excise?

Repeatable results to keep the bean counters happy regardless? Exactly. Who gives a shit.

On the home brewer level, if you can avoid having to take superfluous quantities out of your single keg batch of your greatest beer ever, yet retain the same (or an increased) level of accuracy, by taking a small enough sample to yeild three drops worth of wort, why wouldnt you?

Confused.....

I stand by my comments regarding the accuracy of MY brewing, and the functionality, of using a refractometer vs hydrometer.
+1 I love my refractometer. I can see most readings to within .1 of a brix which is less than 1 point SG.

No big sample, no temp correction necessary (1 drop instantly becomes the temp of the refrac glass), sexy display inc the colour blue :D
 
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