Any One Else Get This?

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citizensnips

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Just wanting to know if any of you can point out what i may be doing wrong. For some reason everytime i have a homebrew the taste is great but for me there seems to be too much carbonation. It seems everytime i have one i enjoy it but the co2 seems to make me feel very bloated. Your commercial beers have great carboination and dont leave that fizzy taste on your tounge. Anyone else experience this or know what i may be able to do to improve my beers carbonation levels? Just for extra info the beers are always brewed at the right temperatures of around 18-20 for ales and 10-14 for lagers. Aswell as this they are carbonated in my garage where it is quite cool.
Cheers
-eddy-
 
Its all down to the amount of sugar when you bottle. This assumes you don't bottle to early.
The easiest way is 2 carbonation drops (lollies) per 750ml bottle. If you like flatter beer use one.
 
Don't want to throw the topic but - Carbonation drops vs. sugar?

I am only a young buck but use Carb. drops for ease of use and mind...

Opinions?
 
the only time i have had this happen is when i bottle too early, i have had a few brews that have been fizzier than coke.. the taste was great, but faaaar too much fizz, couldnt even finish a pint of it
 
Have to agree with Brewtus , only really happens with too much priming sugar or fermentation hasn't really finished.
There is one other thing , the fermented beer contains some CO2 anyway & if it's cold it'll stay in suspension so you get stored CO2 + priming CO2.
Use 3/4 tsp sugar per longneck next time a compare , could go as low as 1/2 tsp but that depends on style & how fizzy you like it.

Lagers
 
Gday Eddy,
I thought ales were better brewed between 20-24 not 18-20. At this temp it would take alot longer to finish brewing.
Also from the brews i have done it always seems to take longer when using complex sugars like malts. Rather than dextrose.
What are the usual FG's (Final Gravity) you get before bottling????
:rolleyes:
 
You will get a much cleaner ale beer with less fruity esters if you ferment between 18 and 20

Kabooby :)
 
Tips:

-ferm (us-05) 18-20C (you mentioned you already do this - good ;) )
-be certain beer has fully fermed out- get consecutive hydrometer readings over 3 days
-cold condition the ferm vessel (as cold as you can get it, for at least 24 hours/1 week preferred) - this will encourage yeasts to fully flocculate (settle out) and clear the beer without the use of finings (so you'll get the settling of haze-forming proteins and tannins, as bonus).
-rack from the top (not your side spigot) careful not to disturb the yeast bed.. leave a little beer behind (will likely be less than a bottle, when you start pulling trub up)
-consider using secondary with the last 2 tips (CC + top rack)
-avoid carb drops, bulk prime with dextrose or better DME- use a bulk priming calculator
-ensure your bottles (and caps) are clean throughout. use a no-rinse sanitiser like iodophor on the bottles, as final soak.

The CC and careful rack from top will likely make a world of difference for ya. Personally, I do all of the above.. might be a bit more work than yer normal routine, but you will make a better beer... and can drink more (less bloat) :beerbang:

Let us know how you go!

reVox
 
If your bottled beer is to gassy, try using ice in your glass. Sort of helps.
 
Only had undercarbed beer, which is worse... much worse! :)
 
My main problem in the days when I used to bottle was being too impatient to bottle.
I was using the recommended amounts of sugar and ending up with overcarbonated beer. The trick for me was to leave the finished beer for at least a week past the end of fermentation. This allows the supersaturated CO2 to come up to equilibrium and has the added benefit of clearing a hell of a lot more yeast (less ends up in the bottles) and allowing the yeast to mop up after itself resulting in much cleaner beer.

MFS.
 
oright thanks for all the replies, ill take them on board and try them out with the next brew.
Cheers
-eddy-
 
in addition to replies, did you use maltodex? that tends to be a bit oily some oeple find and makes for bloating.
 
Don't want to throw the topic but - Carbonation drops vs. sugar?

I am only a young buck but use Carb. drops for ease of use and mind...

Opinions?
If you bulk prime with dex/malt/whatever, you can control the carbonation level better, though I have never done this. I remember reading about choosing the right amount to get a specific carbonation level but I can't remember where.

Carbo drops are very convenient though.

EK
 
leave the finished beer for at least a week past the end of fermentation. This allows the supersaturated CO2 to come up to equilibrium and has the added benefit of clearing a hell of a lot more yeast (less ends up in the bottles) and allowing the yeast to mop up after itself resulting in much cleaner beer.

MFS.

2nd that, 14 days in primary for all ales is my standard. Straight to bottle ,no 2ndary.Yeast will clean up diacetyll etc... with a much cleaner slightly more attenuated beer.
 
Another thing is that if a beer has too much carbonation, just knock some of the gas out of it by stirring it with a teaspoon or similar ... carefully of course. A bit uncivilized perhaps, but it works for me.
 
Don't want to throw the topic but - Carbonation drops vs. sugar?

I am only a young buck but use Carb. drops for ease of use and mind...

Opinions?

Carb drops have the advantage of being easy to use and get a consistent carb level across a batch.
Sugar is cheaper but not as foolproof, although it does allow you to alter the carb level as desired. Sugar should carb up a little quicker as well due to the incresed surface area compared to a solid carb drop.
 
Carb drops have the advantage of being easy to use and get a consistent carb level across a batch.
Sugar is cheaper but not as foolproof, although it does allow you to alter the carb level as desired. Sugar should carb up a little quicker as well due to the incresed surface area compared to a solid carb drop.


Cheers!
:beer:
 
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