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I've recently bought a cannular semi-auto and I'm destroying cans as I'm trying to dial it in, not getting any closer to getting it to work... if anything, it's getting worse as I seem to be getting those tiny little gaps closer. So close, that the cans and lids can barely even fit now between the chuck and the rollers. Out of the box the gaps were massive and a test can seemed to work okay. I wish I'd taken a photo, because since trying to get all the gaps in to like 0.1mm and stuff, the cans are now having the tops cut off, getting stuck between the chuck and the roller, being chewed up etc. The instruction setup PDF is providing no help. Most of it I understand, but not all of it, so clearly there's something gone terribly wrong somewhere. The first cannular I received had a massive dent in the front, which I had to return. And now the replacement one is destroying cans. Just about ready to pack the whole thing in but not sure what to do about it. A thousand bucks for something I can't get to work. It seems a few people here have had initial problems but then sorted it out. But, I have no idea what's going wrong because as far as I can tell I've got it set up to the specs stated in the setup guide. Any help would be appreciated...
 
I've recently bought a cannular semi-auto and I'm destroying cans as I'm trying to dial it in, not getting any closer to getting it to work... if anything, it's getting worse as I seem to be getting those tiny little gaps closer. So close, that the cans and lids can barely even fit now between the chuck and the rollers. Out of the box the gaps were massive and a test can seemed to work okay. I wish I'd taken a photo, because since trying to get all the gaps in to like 0.1mm and stuff, the cans are now having the tops cut off, getting stuck between the chuck and the roller, being chewed up etc. The instruction setup PDF is providing no help. Most of it I understand, but not all of it, so clearly there's something gone terribly wrong somewhere. The first cannular I received had a massive dent in the front, which I had to return. And now the replacement one is destroying cans. Just about ready to pack the whole thing in but not sure what to do about it. A thousand bucks for something I can't get to work. It seems a few people here have had initial problems but then sorted it out. But, I have no idea what's going wrong because as far as I can tell I've got it set up to the specs stated in the setup guide. Any help would be appreciated...

We have never had a machine that we have not been able to get in spec. So worst case scenario is that the machine comes to us and we do the tuning for you. With that said if we get really good photographs from you we can normally solve the problem remotely. I really can't stress how much this accelerates the process. Good photos helps us to solve the problem fast for you. We ideally would like high resolution shots or macro shots (most modern mobile phones are capable of doing this) and then we can take measurements off the photos and advise you over the phone how to get the machine into specification.

We have several trained staff in customer service specifically for this job and to assist with these enquiries so please use our support so we can help you.

All canning machines require tuning. With that said we are here to help and once the machine is in spec it generally should not need to be adjusted again for another 100,000 cans or so. So getting it into spec is worth doing and worth wasting a few cans on.
 
We have never had a machine that we have not been able to get in spec. So worst case scenario is that the machine comes to us and we do the tuning for you. With that said if we get really good photographs from you we can normally solve the problem remotely. I really can't stress how much this accelerates the process. Good photos helps us to solve the problem fast for you. We ideally would like high resolution shots or macro shots (most modern mobile phones are capable of doing this) and then we can take measurements off the photos and advise you over the phone how to get the machine into specification.

We have several trained staff in customer service specifically for this job and to assist with these enquiries so please use our support so we can help you.

All canning machines require tuning. With that said we are here to help and once the machine is in spec it generally should not need to be adjusted again for another 100,000 cans or so. So getting it into spec is worth doing and worth wasting a few cans on.

Hi there, thanks for your response. I actually went home last night and took the cover off the machine because I thought it might help me understand what was going on. Low and behold, there's a massive cog in there which then helped me understand the instructions about "Turn the chuck clockwise until the 1st roller is at its closest position to the chuck" and "turn the chuck clockwise such that the two rollers run through a full rotation." Not knowing the inner workings of the machine, and without informative instructions, I wasn't aware that this might entail fully rotating the chuck 50... 60... however many times. I had been been rotating it only 3 or 4 times, which made no difference to the roller position (because I didn't know how the seamer worked, so didn't know otherwise).

So, now, it's just a matter of getting the gaps tiny enough so that I get an airtight seal. I spent about an hour last night, but still couldn't get it right, as when adjusting the roller it always moves in towards the chuck when you tighten it. It's going to take a lot of guesswork and trial and error I'm assuming, as to get an x gap of say 0.3-0.7mm I'm going to have to try dozen and dozens of combinations of gaps and possibly pray to various beer gods that the movement after tightening will result in the right width. Sigh.

Anyway, an additional few lines of text explaining how the machine works and the number of times you need to rotate the chuck to go through a 'full rotation' would be inordinately useful. Not everyone starts off knowing how it's supposed to work and what's happening under the hood. Even knowing that it starts off in spec (mostly, sort of...?) would be very, very handy. It's possible all my stuffing around has just been a massive waste of time and money if it came all calibrated and perfectly set out of the box. But, who would know... Very frustrating...
 
@KegLand-com-au why do the machines not get sent out 'tuned'? If they were set up to a specific type of can, at least that way, they should be usable out of the box. Then if someone wants to use a different can type they can then go through the tuning process.
 
Quality hand crank canners cost over $1000, electric are well over $2000, you get what you pay for, it's remarkable that KL have been able to produce an electric semi auto canner for $750, but it comes as no great surprise that adjustments are a bit hit and miss, and that it requires "fiddling" with to work properly.
 
Hi there, thanks for your response. I actually went home last night and took the cover off the machine because I thought it might help me understand what was going on. Low and behold, there's a massive cog in there which then helped me understand the instructions about "Turn the chuck clockwise until the 1st roller is at its closest position to the chuck" and "turn the chuck clockwise such that the two rollers run through a full rotation." Not knowing the inner workings of the machine, and without informative instructions, I wasn't aware that this might entail fully rotating the chuck 50... 60... however many times. I had been been rotating it only 3 or 4 times, which made no difference to the roller position (because I didn't know how the seamer worked, so didn't know otherwise).

So, now, it's just a matter of getting the gaps tiny enough so that I get an airtight seal. I spent about an hour last night, but still couldn't get it right, as when adjusting the roller it always moves in towards the chuck when you tighten it. It's going to take a lot of guesswork and trial and error I'm assuming, as to get an x gap of say 0.3-0.7mm I'm going to have to try dozen and dozens of combinations of gaps and possibly pray to various beer gods that the movement after tightening will result in the right width. Sigh.

Anyway, an additional few lines of text explaining how the machine works and the number of times you need to rotate the chuck to go through a 'full rotation' would be inordinately useful. Not everyone starts off knowing how it's supposed to work and what's happening under the hood. Even knowing that it starts off in spec (mostly, sort of...?) would be very, very handy. It's possible all my stuffing around has just been a massive waste of time and money if it came all calibrated and perfectly set out of the box. But, who would know... Very frustrating...

Yes I would agree when you tighten the nut you get a little bit of movement so making adjustments is difficult but once you have done this a few times you get used to it fairly quickly. The main thing is to make sure you check the gaps are in the right range with the feeler gauges. Please call us if you have any other troubles.

I will talk to the other guys in the office about getting the instruction manual amended to make this more clear.
 
@KegLand-com-au why do the machines not get sent out 'tuned'? If they were set up to a specific type of can, at least that way, they should be usable out of the box. Then if someone wants to use a different can type they can then go through the tuning process.


All the canning machines are adjusted and tested to suit the 500ml cans before they are packed up and dispatched. Almost all the time the cans work straight out of the box with this can size. With that said we get some customers use different cans, different lids and/or just like to have a go at making some adjustments and when this happens this is most often when we need to assist the customer setting the machine up and getting the gap settings right. With that said I am sure we get a small number of customers whereby the machine is setup correctly and tested by us and then just gets dropped by a courier and gets a hard enough wack that one of the settings is off by the time it arrives.

Each can has to seam 5 cans in a row successfully and hold pressure before it's packed in box and dispatched.
 
Quality hand crank canners cost over $1000, electric are well over $2000, you get what you pay for, it's remarkable that KL have been able to produce an electric semi auto canner for $750, but it comes as no great surprise that adjustments are a bit hit and miss, and that it requires "fiddling" with to work properly.

Thanks for that recognition. Yes I think the Cannular canning machine is great value and it's why we sell more canning machines than any other manufacturer in the world.
 
Yes I would agree when you tighten the nut you get a little bit of movement so making adjustments is difficult but once you have done this a few times you get used to it fairly quickly. The main thing is to make sure you check the gaps are in the right range with the feeler gauges. Please call us if you have any other troubles.

I will talk to the other guys in the office about getting the instruction manual amended to make this more clear.

I think that would be good for future purchasers. :)

KegLand-com-au said:
All the canning machines are adjusted and tested to suit the 500ml cans before they are packed up and dispatched. Almost all the time the cans work straight out of the box with this can size. With that said we get some customers use different cans, different lids and/or just like to have a go at making some adjustments and when this happens this is most often when we need to assist the customer setting the machine up and getting the gap settings right. With that said I am sure we get a small number of customers whereby the machine is setup correctly and tested by us and then just gets dropped by a courier and gets a hard enough wack that one of the settings is off by the time it arrives.

Each can has to seam 5 cans in a row successfully and hold pressure before it's packed in box and dispatched.

Again, would have been great to know beforehand. I'm using it with 500ml cans. If I didn't have to have spent a couple of days and destroy a couple dozen cans and have lots of grief, that would have made me a much happier customer. Something to the effect of... "This Cannular seamer machine has been set up and calibrated to correctly seal 500ml cans. Before making any adjustments to the seamer, first fill a can with water or a carbonated beverage and ... (yada, yada)... IF, you find the seamer does not produce an airtight seal after trying to seam 1 or 2 cans, please calibrate the machine according to the following instructions..." :)
 
@KegLand-com-au The standard (not full aperture) 330ml cans have been out of stock for some time now, do you have an ETA or are you not planning to restock this item?
Also, I notice this has been asked previously but I did not see a reply (apologies if you did), are you planning to stock the 375ml cans at any stage?
 
@KegLand-com-au The standard (not full aperture) 330ml cans have been out of stock for some time now, do you have an ETA or are you not planning to restock this item?
Also, I notice this has been asked previously but I did not see a reply (apologies if you did), are you planning to stock the 375ml cans at any stage?

The cost is similar and almost all of our customers seem to prefer the full aperture cans so we only have plans to stock this full aperture type in future.

If you don't mind me asking, why do you not like the full aperture cans?
 
The cost is similar and almost all of our customers seem to prefer the full aperture cans so we only have plans to stock this full aperture type in future.

If you don't mind me asking, why do you not like the full aperture cans?
Fair enough. Does that extend to the standard 500ml cans also?

The only way I can describe why I prefer the standard openings is that it is an ingrained way of drinking - you can tip the can upright and have a good slug without it pouring all over your face and you can be pretty blase in regards to spillage in general. For example, you can play backyard cricket without being concerned about spilling the liquid gold when bowling or diving for a catch, and if it does get knocked over there is a good chance that you won't lose all your beer if you get to it quickly enough.

I have no issue with those that enjoy the full aperture type, each to their own, however, if I wanted an open vessel I'd pour the beer into a glass or a plastic cup.
 
Fair enough. Does that extend to the standard 500ml cans also?

The only way I can describe why I prefer the standard openings is that it is an ingrained way of drinking - you can tip the can upright and have a good slug without it pouring all over your face and you can be pretty blase in regards to spillage in general. For example, you can play backyard cricket without being concerned about spilling the liquid gold when bowling or diving for a catch, and if it does get knocked over there is a good chance that you won't lose all your beer if you get to it quickly enough.

I have no issue with those that enjoy the full aperture type, each to their own, however, if I wanted an open vessel I'd pour the beer into a glass or a plastic cup.

Ok guys. I spoke to the guys in customer service and apparently we have had a couple other people also request the standard can openings too. As a result we are going to get some standard cans in stock on approximately 30/04/2021


We have updated the website with the delivery date for these here:
Aluminium Disposable Beverage/Beer Cans Black Skin with Lids(300 units x 330ml)
 
I got a canning machine for xmas and knowing that I'm not handy in the slightest I decided not to adjust it. It works flawlessly and I've never done a dud can.

I do agree with the others that there should be a note mentioning it's already been tuned. I nearly made changes when I measured and thought my measurements came out differently to the instructions.

As for the lid types. Would it be possible to stock cans and lids separately? That way people could order whatever they like or even order a mix of both.
 
I got a canning machine for xmas and knowing that I'm not handy in the slightest I decided not to adjust it. It works flawlessly and I've never done a dud can.

I do agree with the others that there should be a note mentioning it's already been tuned. I nearly made changes when I measured and thought my measurements came out differently to the instructions.

As for the lid types. Would it be possible to stock cans and lids separately? That way people could order whatever they like or even order a mix of both.

Yes the majority of our customers have no issues and get great results straight out of the box. If you are switching from 330 to 500ml cans this is relatively easy for customers to do as it's just adjusting the table height. But for adjusting the rolls this is more difficult.

We will have a chat to the other guys about stocking can lids separately. At the moment we only have these 5000 box of can lids sold separately in full aperture type. Perhaps what we need to have smaller box size and also stock the standard lids too.
 
I got a canning machine for xmas and knowing that I'm not handy in the slightest I decided not to adjust it. It works flawlessly and I've never done a dud can.

I do agree with the others that there should be a note mentioning it's already been tuned. I nearly made changes when I measured and thought my measurements came out differently to the instructions.

As for the lid types. Would it be possible to stock cans and lids separately? That way people could order whatever they like or even order a mix of both.
Great idea, so simple it’s not funny
 
Every can I've done in the past have worked flawlesly (over 300), however I think I stuffed up.

I was in a rush and maybe didn't wait quite long enough during Fermentation of my Red IPA. Carbed up in the keg and was good to go off the taps for a few weeks, then decided to fill some cans using my beer gun. We had a hot streak of warm days last week her in Perth, which seem to have kicked then cans back into fermentation and caused the lids to burst open.

Up side is I know my seams are all good, as it was the removable part of the lid that blew off.

Still happy as hell with the Canular.
 

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