Air Lock Help

[birusuki]

I put my brew down 2 days ago, no bubbles through the airlock though.
I know it is working well, as the smell is nice and quite strong at one part of the lid.
I f I press down on the lid the airlock bubbles so the brew is safe. (for now)
the lit is not cross threaded, is tight. Tried to make it tighter couldnt, over tight then loosened it
same result. Bad lit or rubber seal??

What I want to know is,

If I dont leave bottle it as soon as it has stopped fermenting will oxygen get in and spoil it?
I was planning to leave it for a few days before bottleing once the fermentation has stopped. bad idea now I guess.

What can I do about it for next time,

dont worry about it
try to exchange it (its a new coopers starter kit)
Got it in japan so not sure I can get a new seal or not

Will try and find the problem though once bottled.
Cheers.

 

[drtomc]

Don't worry about the air-lock over much. Your brew will be fine. In a few days run off a sample and check the gravity with a hydrometer, and then in another day or two. Once the gravity stabilizes fermentation is complete.

Again, I wouldn't worry too much about having a perfect seal. The amount of oxygen that will diffuse in is not enough to worry about unless you're going to leave it in the fermenter for more than a few weeks.

T.
ps I'm surprised no one has jumped in - "oh no! my airlock isn't bubbling" is like a red rag to some.

 

[rob2263]

If you are concerned about the lid not sealing just do what a lot of other people including myself do, use cling wrap and secure the gling wrap with the rubber seal from the lid. This will prevent any nasties getting in and will stop you from listening for the plop plop sound from the airlock. plus one less thing to clean. As drtomc stated just check your gravity to ensure full fermentation.

 

[kelbygreen]

there is no affect if the lid wont seal I have done many brews in a water drum with no airlock and the lid screwed on lightly so the air can escape ( couldnt be bothered getting more gladwrap). as long as its not a open fermentation ( a drum or tub with no lid at all ) its not a problem.

Open fermentation is ok but you want the fermentation to kick off fast and once it starts it makes a co2 blanket but you have to rack it into a sealed container before it ferments out as oxigen and other nastys will get in the brew. have read/seen there are benifits from it as leaves different tasts and other stuff they may/maynot be good depending what you brew.

Thats just a little insite into open fermentation but with home brewing its not worth the risk and effot and for you a lid not sealing is the worse of your worries. alot of us on here dont use airlocks only gladwrap and the lids oring

 

[bignath]

alot of us on here dont use airlocks only gladwrap and the lids oring

+1 Yeah man, the gladwrap and o-ring is a winner! It's fantastic to be able to see what's happening without that lid in the way...

The only way to go i reckon!

 

[birusuki]

+1 Yeah man, the gladwrap and o-ring is a winner! It's fantastic to be able to see what's happening without that lid in the way...

see whats happening inside, thats got to be better than smelling the airlock! Used to do that when I used to brew back in Oz.
This time I`m sniffing the lid.

Thanks for the tips. I wont bother the shop for a new seal then.
cheers.

 

[bignath]

see whats happening inside, thats got to be better than smelling the airlock! Used to do that when I used to brew back in Oz.
This time I`m sniffing the lid.

Thanks for the tips. I wont bother the shop for a new seal then.
cheers.

Ditch the lid....Literally. I'm sure they'd make a good frisbie!

 

[bcp]

Never had a single bubble through my airlock (before i diched it for clingwrap), and never had a failed brew. Presume the threading on the lid wasn't airtight.

 

[felten]

I like to keep my lid around for aerating the wort, but remove it and use glad wrap for fermentation. For dry hopping, I find it a lot easier to remove the glad wrap rather than the lid, as the lid can stick sometimes.

 

[DU99]

i have one fermenter where the airlock dont work tried new lid,next time i use will be using glad wrap..

 

[Bubba]

Kit can (especially the commercial supermarket ones) instructions have a lot to answer for in terms of confusing the new or inexperienced home brewer.

Don't use table sugar as a primary fermentable.
Don't follow the temperature ranges on the can (do 12-14 for lagers, 18 for ales).
You don't have to bottle/keg as soon as it has fermented for 5 days
And NEVER, EVER use the airlock as a gauge for fermentation activity...use your hydrometer, use visual signs and you can continue to use the lid if you want but don't rely on the airlock, or just use gladwrap as most of us do!

Experience is your best gauge, learn and enjoy!

Bubba

 

[DU99]

on coopers it says wash in bleach and water..i got stung with that one..

 

[birusuki]

on coopers it says wash in bleach and water..i got stung with that one..

So bleach is out? I thought I read here that several people use it?
I was going to start to use it when my sanitizer runs out(coopers sanitizer)

progress of my brew

o.g 1043 (ale at around 20dec.)
48 hours later s.g 1012

is that too fast or about normal?

thanks for the tips, glad wrap is next.

 

[QldKev]

So bleach is out? I thought I read here that several people use it?
I was going to start to use it when my sanitizer runs out(coopers sanitizer)

progress of my brew

o.g 1043 (ale at around 20dec.)
48 hours later s.g 1012

is that too fast or about normal?

thanks for the tips, glad wrap is next.

Bleach is a good sanatiser, but you must rinse it properly using hot water otherwise it can effect the taste of your beer. Also have a search on here about mixing it with vinegar. Starsan is soo much easier as it is no rinse; a bottle will last ages.

Don't get too concerned on how quickly/slow you beer ferments out. As long as you have decent activity at the correct temperature range for the yeast all is ok. Remember to leave the beer in the fermentor for an extra week to allow the yeast to clean up before you bottle/keg.

QldKev

 

[jivesucka]

you know it's going to be a special brew if it takes a few days for the yeast to become active or it is still brewing well past the 2-week mark. got a cascade golden harvest bubbling away into it's 3rd week

 

[birusuki]

Need more help.

Took a s.g reading yesturday 1012
then again today 1012

so it apears to have stalled. this has never happened before.
what should I do. add more , sugar, yeast, or stir. the temp is fine at around 22dec.
the first few days was great even though no action through the airlock, nice smell
scum on the side of the fermentor etc. no its all stopped.

What should I do from here?

 

[kelbygreen]

1012 is within range it wont always ferment to 1010 it may also ferment lower.

Knowing what you put down and everything that went in will give us a better idea, also the temp its at now as hydrometer is calibrated to 20c.

Personally i would leave it 2 more days at least and take another reading, leaving brews a week after FG is reached is a good practice as the yeast has time to clean up after itself. I wouldnt be worrying also did you run off the first little bit out of the tap? as yeast can get in there you will see like a plug shoot out when you open the tap.

 

[chappo1970]

Need more help.

Took a s.g reading yesturday 1012
then again today 1012

so it apears to have stalled. this has never happened before.
what should I do. add more , sugar, yeast, or stir. the temp is fine at around 22dec.
the first few days was great even though no action through the airlock, nice smell
scum on the side of the fermentor etc. no its all stopped.

What should I do from here?

Exactly as KG said.... Airlocks should be banned as a means to measure whether a brew is fermenting or not. Two days at 1012 is bottlin' time in Chappo's world.

Relax have a homebrew and bottle that beer!

 

[Ivan Other One]

Two days at a steady FG and you should be right to bottle. Remember reading in here someplace about leave a brew to ferment for at least 8 days before bottling to ensure ferment has finished.
lately here we have brewed on one weekend and then keg/bottle a fortnight later, mainly due to work and time constraints, but have never had any bottle bombs.

As for the airlock, haven't tried the gladwrap, sounds like it's a good thing, but found yesterday a split airlock grommet, so it pays to check all this stuff.

Cheers :icon_cheers: Ivan.

 

[birusuki]

1012 is within range it wont always ferment to 1010 it may also ferment lower.

Knowing what you put down and everything that went in will give us a better idea, also the temp its at now as hydrometer is calibrated to 20c.

Nut brown ale
1kg LME
500gm corn sugar
hopps @5min
irish moss @50
hopps @55 min
total boil 60min.

yeast was ???58

it all came together as one kit.

I`m going to leave it settle for a few days more then bottle it.
It smells sweetish, tastes bitter, but not bad.
I`m thinking about adding finnings, but not sure yet.

Guess it`s ok.