Accidental Overpriming: Which Bottles Can Handle It?

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Chinese population = 1.4billion people.

They wouldn't even notice a few thousand less.

A woman in China has a baby every 2 minutes.
If they could find and stop this woman .. their over-population problems would be solved.

.. or they could just make more home brew and wipe themselves out with bottle bombs.
the homebrew just makes the ugly ones more attractive.

Put the batch in the fridge. It'll be fine

The Lion Stout bottles are the best I've seen since the US had returnables.
 
have had only one batch of bottle bombs which went off on the back seat of my mates brand new hilux lol

as said many times before just burp them or recap after a week or so and should be all good

cheers jake
 
Someone already stole my smart comment.

I have found that if you look at the caps you will see the center poop up as they prime. The ones with lots of pressure will be very high. This is just a reference for the future.

I agree you should burp them. What I have done in the past is either chill the bottles after I figure they are carbed up. Then get the assembly line laid out. Un-cap the bottle, put a fresh cap on, then set the cap. Do this all while not shacking up the bottles. This has let out enough extra gas as to make them safe, while keeping the beer carbed. If you do them warm you risk having them foam out and make a big mess as well as loosing beer.

The other option is to test and when they are carbed to your liking put them in a cold fridge to slow the yeast down and drink them. May be the best idea as you only have a small batch to deal with. As a note this idea is bad if you do not drink them up. Never know how well the yeast may work and if someone takes a bottle out and leaves it, the buggers will take off and boom.
 
I NEVER trust bottled beer. I use a kitchen scale to weigh each sugar addition ( i don't bottle very often, as im a kegger ), and i use a lower than average amount ( mostly UK ales, 4g/litre ) .I know i've put the right amount in, but i never trust them regardless. I had a very active yeast sample that i'd bottled blow my old fridge door open. The glass shards were embedded into the plastic. Imagine what it'd do to your skin/eye.
 
Another option besides Burping your bottles is to get them to the carb lvl you want then stick them in the fridge. This will slow Tue yeast down to almost nothing. If you've do a fat yak clone. You shouldn't notice 1/4 teaspoon of sugar in your beer
 
Champange bottles will take the pressure. Ive been using them for ages and have never had one explode even when i froze a few beers the bottle remained intact
 
Someone already stole my smart comment.

I have found that if you look at the caps you will see the center poop up as they prime.
WTF are you putting in your bottles... :icon_vomit:
 
I haven't seen any response to QldKev's question about whether the sugar was added to 10 lt or 7.5lts?
I would expect that tHis would make a whole lot of difference.
 
I haven't seen any response to QldKev's question about whether the sugar was added to 10 lt or 7.5lts?
I would expect that tHis would make a whole lot of difference.

Pretty sure the sugar was added to 10 L from what the OP said in his first post.


Today I bulk primed a small batch of beer (my first AG using BIAB with a terrible efficiency) and several things happened which caused me to lose some beer, hence lessening the volume I had used to calculate my carbonation levels.

As I normally do, I'd already dissolved the sugar in some of the beer, boiled it for 5 minutes, added it to my cube and started the transfer, so there was no going back. Basically, instead of 10.1 L, I ended up bottling only 7.35 L (I know - a lot of room for improvement).
This means, instead of the 3.0 volumes of CO2 I wanted, I'm expecting 4.0.

Much more interesting is the question if commercial Hefeweizens are really carbed up to 4.5 volumes as various carbonation calculators suggest.
That would mean that at least those bottles could handle the estimated 4 volumes.

Anyone with some inside info?
 
imo belgian beer bottles would be best. ive done some brett beers that i wouldve sworn had to be finished (up to 18 mths in secondary)but after 12 or more monthes in the bottle were insanly carbed. ive never had a orval or duvel type bottle explode though.
 
I had one of mine explode at someone elses place after giving it to them to try. Guessing a bad bottle as no others have at my house.

It was a CUB longie. Now I read they aren't very good for bottling in.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top