A Guide To All-grain Brewing In A Bag

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Guys why don't you (mods) put the summary replies in a seperate thread, new brewers still have to sift threw a lot of posts to get to the "summarys"

Just a thought

Unfinished work, deaves... :D

PistolPatch (I am told), upon returning from his convalescence ;) will be continuing his work on producing the finished product. If you are new to the thread, you will be presented with the beginning of the thread which contains four posts that form a meta-summarisation of what jimmysuperlative, thirstyboy, etc are summarising.

There is also much work going on to refine the guide.

It won't happen over night, but... :D
 
Thank you Jimmy for the excellent summary. A top job!

I was hoping (now that I'm over my convalescence - lol) to go through and summarise the summaries today but ran out of time. Should be able to get it done this weekend.

I was also wondering if anyone had a way of weighing there mash after they had drained it? I tried the otehr day with bathroom scales but got readings all over the place. It would be interesting though to know if the BIAB mash retained less water than a traditional mash.

Thanks again Jimmy :super:
 
Aren't there hook scales you could hang the bag from to weigh it that are normally used for fish etc.?
 
I think its pretty obvious that we get more wort out of our grain than a traditional mash ton because we lift the grain up and out . The whole lifting the bag places some pressure on the grain and then by giving a bit of a squeeze we get the last out . A mash ton just left to drain wont get the presure on the grain so it will hold more wort in the grain bed ..


The only question is "how much ".. ??

:beer:
 
Absolutely correct bunyip; BIAB does get more wort out of the grain due to the squeezing. However, The BIAB process does not involve rinsing the grain with twice the mash water volume. The rinsing gets hot, fresh water inside the grain to dissolve sugars which is then forced out by more hot water, leaving more water in the grain than BIAB but most probably putting more sugar into the wort. So BIAB does obtain more wort from the same mash volume, however may leave sugar stuck in the grain as it is not adequately rinsed/sparged.
 
I was also wondering if anyone had a way of weighing there mash after they had drained it? I tried the otehr day with bathroom scales but got readings all over the place. It would be interesting though to know if the BIAB mash retained less water than a traditional mash.

Thanks again Jimmy :super:

Hey Pat, I measured my wort on Tuesday when I did Aiden's Irish Red. I use a calibrated stick (calibrated at 1 litre intervals). I started with 35 litres in the keggle, after mashing 4.64 kg of grain, removing the bag and draining back into the keggle. I had 33 litres pre-boil. So a loss of 2 litres in 4.64 kg of grain. This was a much smaller loss than I was expecting.

Hope this helps.
Cheers
 
I acknowledge that I am not strictly brewing in a single vessel.

Once I've drained/squeezed as much liquid out of my grain as I can, I dunk-sparge the bag in my 20litre bucket and 9litres of very hot water. A bit of jiggling, more draining and squeezing and I have quite a bit more sugar into my pot.

Yesterday's effort saw me with 24.5 litres of 1.080 wort from 5kg pilsner malt and 2kg 'other sugars'. About 0.5litres was left in the boiler and I expect to leave about 1litre in the cube with the rest of the yuck that falls out. I'm pretty happy with that.

Although I believe the BIAB process is quite efficient, I also think that incremental improvement can be made using the sorts of things you're likely to find laying around the house. (Not teenage sons, ageing pets and the like!)
 
Sure you can squeeze more out with BIAB, but I find I get heaps more break/trub in the kettle at the end of the boil, preventing me from draining all the wort off.

A batch sparge seems to produce much less break material for me.
 
Sure you can squeeze more out with BIAB, but I find I get heaps more break/trub in the kettle at the end of the boil, preventing me from draining all the wort off.

A batch sparge seems to produce much less break material for me.

There does seem to be a fair bit of break/trub with BIAB. I filter out as much as I can as I move it from the kettle to my No-Chill cuboids and the rest settles to the bottom of the cube before I heave it into the fermenter. Some of my BIAB/No-Chill worts are clearer than I've purchased from the professionals.

I'm primarily concerned with what flavours that stuff adds to my beer if I leave it in there while fermenting. Different people make different claims about flavour impact (no surprises there!). I'm continuing to work for clear worts, although several people just don't bother.
 
Thanks for the figures Hashie. That's about the same as what I get. Makes sense too when you think about what Ned says. This also explains the increas in efficiency with BIAB. A couple of extra litres makes a big difference here. Cheers mate!

Extra Trub I personally haven't noticed any difference but then again I wasn't looking for any so I wouldn't know. It makes sense though that there would be extra trub with BIAB but...

Assuming the above is right, I think that whether you batch or BIAB would actually make no difference to the 'real' amount of trub. All that would change is the stage of the brewing process where you get rid of the extra trub...

In batching, you get rid of the 'extra trub' when you sparge. The grain bed would filter the extra trub out. It also has the penalty (by the look of our figures) of losing a few litres of wort.

In BIAB, the extra trub ends up at the bottom of the kettle. Here you also lose a few litres because you can't syphon off as much.

End result I imagine is pretty close.

BIAB does seem to end up with a clearer wort at the end of the boil. Some people say that a cloudy wort during the boil is actually good so we could even say that BIAB has the best of both worlds but that would be a biassed and unproven statement which I would never indulge in unless I wanted to provoke a little deeper thinking.

;)
Pat
 
Absolutely correct bunyip; BIAB does get more wort out of the grain due to the squeezing. However, The BIAB process does not involve rinsing the grain with twice the mash water volume. The rinsing gets hot, fresh water inside the grain to dissolve sugars which is then forced out by more hot water, leaving more water in the grain than BIAB but most probably putting more sugar into the wort. So BIAB does obtain more wort from the same mash volume, however may leave sugar stuck in the grain as it is not adequately rinsed/sparged.


While the BIAB guide may not call for rinceing , I have been rinceing may grains for a while now(15brews at least) to unlock the sugars you mention as being caught in the grain. I first tryed just pouring 3 lt though when I lifted the bag up and have now moved to dunking and jiggleing my bag in the second boiler befor I add its grain bill and then in a bucket as Spills noted he is doing as well ..

:beer:
 
I've just been dipping into this thread as Julia Zemero glares over her nose at me and I finish off a bottle of Pale Ale with Saaz B and Cascade (a surprisingly good mix) ...

It has taken me a bit of time to get used to the cloudiness of my wort as I boil it. Others I have seen are quite clear whereas mine are completely opaque. But I add my Irish Moss religiously and it becomes exceptionally clear in the cuboid. Ditto in the bottle.

My conclusion is that it has nothing at all to do with the brewing technique - it's either my use of the moss or settling or some such thing...

Thoughts?
 
That was a good idea on the fish scales Brewtus. Alas, I don't have any!

Spills I have a good pic of how much trub settles out and how clear the wort is at the end of the boil that I'll post up later. Never really noticed any real opaqueness during the boil but it's not something I've really looked for. Not much help for you mate.

After seeing you guys doing all this rinsing, I thought I'd try something a little different on last weekend's brew.

At the end of the mash, I raised the wort temp to 78 degrees, donned the rubber gloves and gave the bag a very hard drain and squeeze.

The figures I took were pretty meticulous. (One interesting thing was that according to ruler measurements, when I dumped my grain in it added another 4 litres to the volume. When I removed it and squeezed it, the volume only dropped by 5.5lts. A pretty inaccurate way of measuring the weight of the mash but interesting all the same.)

Anyway, the 'final efficiency,' (wort including trub) was 76.5%.

Next time I brew this beer, I'll do it the way I normally do and see if there is a difference. Mind you, after all the efficiency study I've been doing lately, one thing I do know is that you have to take measurements over several brews before you can be sure a change in brewing method really does make a particular difference.

Spot ya,
Pat
 
Good on ya Spills :p

I'm currently doing everything I can to avoid working on the BIAB re-write and summaries ;) (I have to be in the mood for that stuff.)

But, I do have a few thoughts that might inspire some more thinking on BIAB. I'm going to start with the recent feedback on the 'extra' rinsing of the grain and finish with some new areas that I think deserve our attention.

I can also tell you now, before I even have a beer (it's 4:00pm here), that this is going to be a long post ;) The following contains also a lot of my personal opinions on or experiences of BIAB and therefore a lot of what I'll say is supposition that may end up being disproved.

'Extra Rinsing of the Grain'

Since the original idea of full-volume brewing was proposed h ere by James Squire in the All In One Brewery thread, there have been questions on whether such a large liquor to grain ratio would work. Even though we now know it does, a few people are still tempted to mash at lower volumes. My question is, 'Why?'

A lot of stuff in home all-grain brewing comes from commercial brewing where they have space and volume limitations. The science adopted doesnt always mean that you will get a better beer. Often it just means that you will get a more commercially viable beer. Personally, mashing at full volume logically makes more sense to me for a better beer. Batch-sparging makes the next best sense and fly-sparging the least for getting quality beer.

Hoops has been the only one to date that could pick the diff between a batch-sparged and BIABed beer. He found the BIAB beer to be slightly less astringent but with slightly less body. We are talking here though about minute levels no one else could spot a difference in the blind tastings. (I'm doing another side-by-side brew over here soon by the way.)

No matter what brewing method you use, assuming the same boil time, you are limited to exactly the same amount of water to mash and sparge with. The only question is the quantities, times and temperatures at which you apply the available water.

If the idea of mashing and sparging is to get the most sugar out of the grain, then I cannot see how batching or fly-sparging would be any better than BIAB.

Let me put it another way. Let's say you have a coffee mug 1/3 full of sugar and you only have 1 cup of water to dissolve it in. You can either add a little bit of water, drain it off, add some more drain it off etc or you can just stir in the whole lot. The solution is going to be saturated no matter what you do.

To the above we also have the problem of astringency. This is not a problem with BIAB or batch-sparging. It is critical in fly-sparging (which I know bugger all about.)

In fly-sparging, from what I know, sugars from the grain at the top of the bed are going to be very leached whilst the grain at the bottom is substantially less leached.

In batching, this is less the case and in BIAB less again.

So, my first major supposition (and remember I started out batch-sparging) is that I think full-volume mashing (of which BIAB is a form) would give the most 'even' extraction of sugar without any astringency. Remember that we don't have the limitations of commercial breweries.

And, if we raise the temperature of the mash to 78 degrees as I did in my last brew (see my last post here) then isn't this even better again?

ThirstyBoy who I, and I'm pretty sure anyone with half a brain, respects and admires for his intelligent posts, recently wrote the following on the American, 'The Brewing Network'...

Just a quick little update and minor advertisement for the BIAB thing.

My mate who I taught to BIAB on new years day (he's the hungover looking one in the pictorial.... wait, that was both of us!) anyway, he came down to visit and we had a brew session on Thursday evening.

I showed him how I brew on my more trad system. 3 vessl quasi HERMS.

I did a multi step mash, so we got to play with re-circulation, protien rests, pumps and all the attendant stuff. I batch sparged with 3 drainings.

At the end of the 7 hours... he basically couldn't see a single reason to change from his much simpler and easier regimen. And he brought down the last bottle of the beer we made on New Years Day. A modified version of Denny's Rye IPA --- And quite frankly, I cant see why he would want to change either, it was superb. At least as good as any of the IPAs I tasted at a recent beer festival with 15 micro breweries in attendance. His very first AG beer was as good as anything I have brewed, and better than a lot of it.

Of course, I gave him a sample of a reasonably complex brew day. I could have just done a single infusion. But now he's brewed both ways and his decision to stay with BAIB or move on, is a little more of an informed one. To be honest if someone handed me the beer he did; and then told me they were planning on radically altering their brewing process... I'd call them crazy.

Any lingering doubts I might have had about Brewing in a Bag have been well and truly vanquished. Of course now I have to worry about my own brewing.... and why it doesn't seem to be as good as Col's. Bugger

Thirsty

My Fears on BIAB's Future

Unfortunately, there are only two of us so far who have moved either completely or partially from traditional methods to BIAB. Thirsty has a friggin' HERMS for God's sake and already does his smaller batches with BIAB. Bloody credit to him I reckon. I, at least had some extra motivation to use BIAB due to my brewing space limitations.

The only credibility I have to add to the BIAB method is that I spend a lot of time and I've also spent a lot of money on brewing. It's one area of my life where I have said, 'I'll spend what I want to get this right.' I have brewed very 'hard' beers. Many beers can be brewed by anyone under any method. More subtle beers cannot. The very hard beers (such as very low-hopped German Lagers) I have brewed I, personally, have found unsatisfying for various reasons but others have given them an honest thumbs up. I have only once or twice tasted other 'hard' beers in the same style and couldn't taste a difference. Any 'easy' beer I've brewed has always at least equalled it's counterparts.

I am totally confident in BIAB when brewing hard beers. Just need to find the right recipe, mash temp etc etc.

My fear (and I think it is somewhat unfounded) is that with only Thirsty and myself changing their brewing habits, other new brewers may automatically think that BIAB is just a stepping stone to better beers.

Thirsty, myself and tastings to date should show that this is a total untruth.

I am also really pleased that when you look at the BIAB register, very few people have changed their method. The beer is very good.

Another real credit to BIAB or, more properly, AHB, is that the traditional brewers are not knocking the method. They are and have been very open-minded. Several have actively contributed to the relevant threads and others have tasted BIAB with postivie feedback.

Frankly, this is bloody great and without such open-minded traditional brewers interest, input and feedback, both BIAB and full-volume brewing would not have had a hope.

I think though...

It's About Time We Formally Validated BIAB

To enable BIAB brewers to more confidently plough on with new ideas (see below) I think it's about time we started entering some competitions. I have no idea on how to do this and so will start another thread tonight where we can get some advice. Here's the thread

(Whoops! The thread has been closed! Maybe use this one instead.)

I'm happy to enter some of my, 'easy,' beers. It would be great to get some official feedback.

If we get some great feedback then we can move into some really exciting areas...

Making BIAB More Elegant

I think that once everyone is a little more confident in BIAB we can start playing around with a few ideas that will make BIAB a bit more technically elegant. I'd love this.

For example, replace the bag with a skyhook and fine mesh 'frying basket.' The question then is, 'How fine can we go?' (A lot of thought has already been put into this in James Squire's 'All In One Brewery' thread.

Then we can think on the perfect BIAB brewstand!

Looking forward to your thoughts,
Pat

P.S. That only took 2hrs 25 minutes! Could be my most 'efficient' post yet ;)
 
...
If the idea of mashing and sparging is to get the most sugar out of the grain, then I cannot see how batching or fly-sparging would be any better than BIAB.

Let me put it another way. Let's say you have a coffee mug 1/3 full of sugar and you only have 1 cup of water to dissolve it in. You can either add a little bit of water, drain it off, add some more drain it off etc or you can just stir in the whole lot. The solution is going to be saturated no matter what you do.

...

PP, I am not sure it is that simple. I did a little research on grist ratios (which is the main difference between BIAB and more traditional methods), and how it affects the final beer. I came upon this gem of knowledge->

"High mash temperatures favor a less fermentable wort because alpha-amylase is a lot more stable than beta-amylase is at higher temperatures. This means that there will be less production of maltose as the activity of beta-amylase diminishes. It is hard to say that beta-amylase activity will be expected to drop off at a particular temperature, because the thickness will determine what temperature activates maximum beta-amylase activity. Thicker mashes tend to retain more beta-amylase activity at high mash temperatures than do thin mashes. This is because beta-amylase is more stable when joined with its substrate than when it is not.

Because beta-amylase encounters substrate less frequently in a thin mash, there is more opportunity for it to be destabilized and inactivated. "


it came from here.

.. so to make a long story short... the thinner the mash, the lower in temperature you have to mash in order to achieve the same level of fermentability as you would with a normal thickness mash.

That being said, has anyone noticed any higher finishing gravities using BIAB, as opposed to another method? I am curious to see whether reality fits theory.

Edit: Do not take this post too seriously, after writing this post I went back and read some of the "previous" pages and now realize that this topic has been beaten to a bloody death. :rolleyes:

:beer:
 
Ahh, bayweiss, if only you'd read the whole thread :rolleyes: you'd have seen this came up many pages ago. A rather lengthy 'discussion' on this ensued. From all the figures given by BIABers, it appears that the theory is not borne out in practice, with most reporting fairly normal FG figures. There was one dissenting BIABer who decided to change to more traditional mashing as he felt his beers were not attenuating as much as they could have, but otherwise it just doesn't seem to matter in the way the theory predicts.
 
Ahh, bayweiss, if only you'd read the whole thread :rolleyes: you'd have seen this came up many pages ago. A rather lengthy 'discussion' on this ensued. From all the figures given by BIABers, it appears that the theory is not borne out in practice, with most reporting fairly normal FG figures. There was one dissenting BIABer who decided to change to more traditional mashing as he felt his beers were not attenuating as much as they could have, but otherwise it just doesn't seem to matter in the way the theory predicts.

Ah so!!!! I will skim through this thread again. LOL. I just learned about the beta-amylase connection to mash thickness today. I have known for a while that thicker mashes produce more fermentable wort, but I never knew why until I read the article. Ok... thx!

Edit: I just read back to ThirstyBoy's post (250 posts previous to this), and he mentions the same thing about the enzymes...whew, this thread is large.

cheers!
 
From what I've read, it appears that mash temperature is far more important than mash thickness in terms of the level of unfermentables in the wort. I have read that it's best to leave a thinner mash for longer to ensure conversion. But since most conversion happens within 15-20 minutes with modern malts, a normal length mash seems like it should be plenty long enough and does appear to be with BIAB.
 
Ah so!!!! I will skim through this thread again. LOL. I just learned about the beta-amylase connection to mash thickness today. I have known for a while that thicker mashes produce more fermentable wort, but I never knew why until I read the article. Ok... thx!

Edit: I just read back to ThirstyBoy's post (250 posts previous to this), and he mentions the same thing about the enzymes...whew, this thread is large.

cheers!


I think it may be time for a summary of the summary threads :D
 

Latest posts

Back
Top