36l Water Cooler For Mash And Party-keg

[MarkBastard]

Gday all. I'm a BIAB brewer that is seriously considering going 2V or 3V.

I'm thinking of getting a 36L Water Cooler from BCF (http://www.bcf.com.au/online-store/products/Cosmoplast-Jumbo-Water-Cooler-36-Litre-Blue.aspx?pid=114209#Description) to use as a mash tun but also able to convert into a party keg cooler.

I know people have used these for mash tuns before, and also know that people have used them for party keg setups with the tap shank going through the hole that the spout uses.

So I would ideally have a removable ball valve (or equiv) connected to a removable false bottom / braid / manifold for mashing.

And then the removable tap / shank for party keg mode.

I would use it for mashing more often than for a party keg setup. I would probably only use it for a party keg once or twice a year.

Questions:
1 - Any one see any issues?
2 - Of the three mash options, false bottoms, braids and manifolders, which one would have the least dead space? What about cost?
3 - If I go 2V and use this for a full volume mash with no mash out or sparging, will this significantly lengthen my brew day?
4 - Would you expect better or worse brewhouse efficiency (Currently getting about 66 to 70% brewhouse (into fermenter) efficiency)
5 - Are dial thermometres on the side of mash tuns like this reliable or a guide only?

Note at the moment after mashing I remove my bag and within 5 minutes turn my urn back on to ramp up to boiling temps. The time it takes me to fully drain my bag is about the same time as it takes my urn to reach the boil. So naturally if I start draining from the mash tun to the kettle and the boil starts BEFORE the mash tun has fully drained, that would add to my brew day length. However if it drains quicker, that won't shorten my brew day, as the ramping up period is 'slack time'.

 

[stevepreece]

I have one of these. Use a braid and get 75-78% efficiency, or I seem to, using batch sparge.
I had to redo my ball valve mountings after allowing it to be used as a sausage filled eski at bunnings for my daughter's kinder sausage sizzle. I now have nuts and gaskets either side of the inner wall, the outer became weakened as I should have used a wider nut, my fault.

For temp I stick temp probe for an stc in there, Happily sits in there with no issues or temp leaks.

I intend to use it to hold a party keg on camping trips this summer.

 

[Tony_N]

Gday all. I'm a BIAB brewer that is seriously considering going 2V or 3V.

I'm thinking of getting a 36L Water Cooler from BCF (http://www.bcf.com.au/online-store/products/Cosmoplast-Jumbo-Water-Cooler-36-Litre-Blue.aspx?pid=114209#Description) to use as a mash tun but also able to convert into a party keg cooler.

I know people have used these for mash tuns before, and also know that people have used them for party keg setups with the tap shank going through the hole that the spout uses.

So I would ideally have a removable ball valve (or equiv) connected to a removable false bottom / braid / manifold for mashing.

And then the removable tap / shank for party keg mode.

I would use it for mashing more often than for a party keg setup. I would probably only use it for a party keg once or twice a year.

Questions:
1 - Any one see any issues?
2 - Of the three mash options, false bottoms, braids and manifolders, which one would have the least dead space? What about cost?
3 - If I go 2V and use this for a full volume mash with no mash out or sparging, will this significantly lengthen my brew day?
4 - Would you expect better or worse brewhouse efficiency (Currently getting about 66 to 70% brewhouse (into fermenter) efficiency)
5 - Are dial thermometres on the side of mash tuns like this reliable or a guide only?





Over the last 2 days I have been looking at the BCF jobbie too. I did lots of searches and found a couple of guys who said the thing distorts over time when used as a mash tun. ( I think it has a softer plastic than most industrial plastic buckets) I have found a place in Brisbane that does 50 litre heavy duty recycled buckets with screw-on lids for $11.50. I intend to wrap that with some sort of building insulation - or maybe some camping sleeping mats that I have lying around. Not too pretty for the party keg - but cheaper than the cooler and not going to melt ...... FWIW as the sites newest newb - have no idea on the other questions

Tony

Note at the moment after mashing I remove my bag and within 5 minutes turn my urn back on to ramp up to boiling temps. The time it takes me to fully drain my bag is about the same time as it takes my urn to reach the boil. So naturally if I start draining from the mash tun to the kettle and the boil starts BEFORE the mash tun has fully drained, that would add to my brew day length. However if it drains quicker, that won't shorten my brew day, as the ramping up period is 'slack time'.

 

[Tony_N]

not usre where the last bit of the post came from - its not mine

 

[kelbygreen]

I cannot see any problem with it.

I doubt your brew day will be quicker. A few reasons.

1. you will have to vorlauf so this will take about 3+ mins depending how clear you want the wort.

2. If you want better efficiency then you will have to batch sparge or fly sparge. Batch sparging is quicker but people say you get better eff out of fly sparging.

I wouldnt worry about a thermometer threw the side. Just get a good stick one or digital. I got a laboratory one but you have to have it fully submerged and it takes about 2-3mins to heat up once submerged so a digital would be good.

 

[argon]

1 - Any one see any issues?
Nope i use a keggle MT... but anyway the other Qs apply
2 - Of the three mash options, false bottoms, braids and manifolders, which one would have the least dead space? What about cost?
I'd go a false bottom... i have one and have never had a stuck sparge, even with >20% rye and drain as fast as possible. Deadspace is 0 as the spigot picks up almost flush with the base of the tun. So you'll get all the wort out that is not absorbed by the grain. IMO It's a simple, designed for purpose, no worries solution
3 - If I go 2V and use this for a full volume mash with no mash out or sparging, will this significantly lengthen my brew day?
I do double batches and first running is typically around 32L, which is comparable to a single batch full volume you are proposing. With 1/2inch ball valve fully open, it probably takes 5mins or less to drain to kettle. Add a vorlauf step and you're probably looking at 10mins from end of mash to having all your liquor in the kettle. so depends on how fast your urn gets from that temp to boil. I'd apply heat as soon as the element is covered.
4 - Would you expect better or worse brewhouse efficiency (Currently getting about 66 to 70% brewhouse (into fermenter) efficiency)
Not sure about full volume/no-sparge. I know hypothetically it's not supposed to be as good, but have heard people getting 75-80% preboil. With an ss falsy i'd be expecting better efficiency than what you're currently getting. With 2 equal batch sparges you should be seeing 80%+ mash efficiency into kettle.
5 - Are dial thermometres on the side of mash tuns like this reliable or a guide only?
i have a dial therm that really is a guide only. I calibrate regularly. Better option is a thermowell and a STC-100 or whatever, which i have in the HLT which makes life easy attached to a timer.

 

[MarkBastard]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I read in another thread that this cooler has an irregular bottom stopping 'standard' false bottoms from working. Would love to hear feedback from owners of the cooler in question...

 

[Blackapple]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I read in another thread that this cooler has an irregular bottom stopping 'standard' false bottoms from working. Would love to hear feedback from owners of the cooler in question...

Correct, it has a flat section where the tap goes through, the brew shop in peakhurst sell false bottoms to suit this cooler.
I went this way, great mash tun.

 

[TonyC]

Mark *******,
i have this and have had issues with the base, i ended up putting a flat piece on the bottom, similar to the way BB do on their other model for rectangular eskies. I have had no trouble since.

Tony

 

[Brewers Choice]

You can buy Rubbermaid 36 ltr coolers with matching false bottoms, stainless steel bulk heads, etc from Brewers Choice. The coolers have a flat bottom that works without modification, and the taps fit in without affecting the opening where the original tap sits, so you can easily remove them and use them for other purposes. They are available at www.brewerschoice.com.au

 

[Blackapple]

Re PM here are some pics MB

 

[Blackapple]

And some more :icon_cheers:

 

[damianjthorpe]

G'day Brewers,

Where is a good place to find the ball valve and temp probe to purchase? Thinking of purchasing the 36L cooler.

Cheers and happy brewing,
Damo

 

[yardy]

G'day Brewers,

Where is a good place to find the ball valve and temp probe to purchase? Thinking of purchasing the 36L cooler.

Cheers and happy brewing,
Damo

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=3027

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=1166

 

[damianjthorpe]

G'day Brewers,

Thanks for the links yardy

We are getting set up for our first AG.

Cheers and happy brewing,
Damo

 

[yardy]

G'day Brewers,

Thanks for the links yardy

We are getting set up for our first AG.

Cheers and happy brewing,
Damo

no worries, good luck :icon_cheers:

 

[mjadeb1984]

View attachment 48842
View attachment 48841
And some more :icon_cheers:

Hi was just wondering where you got the false bottom with the flat edge? i have just brought a cosmoplast cooler the same as yours and was trying to get my head around the square thing sticking out inside the cooler.
Cheers