2200w Stainless Elements Failing?

[Filby]

Hi

So I run two elements in my kettle and they work very effectively. The problem I have had is that over the past 12 months I have had 2 of them fail and both in the same way. The element itself is fine but the junction between the cable and the element overheats, softens and/or melts until the insulation fails and the cables either short or go to ground. Upon inspection it appears the current is overheating the insulation on the conductors, and added to this is the way the cable droops under gravity causing stress at the junction.
Has anyone else had this problem? Also, I remember reading somewhere that the elements had been 'updated' to a newer version?


Cheers


Fil

 

[Maheel]

mine has not failed but i have spoken to others where they have failed, and it does seems to be the issue you have at the junction to the wires.

at some point i expect it to fail in the same way......

i siliconed the area of mine up to hold on that little cap and then i used packing tape to create a cone of tape to support the wires and hold them steady when moving the boiler around.

the tape builds from the join of the wires area out about 15cm to stiffen it all up
IMO they are poorly made at the join, great product but...

 

[geoffd]

mine has not failed but i have spoken to others where they have failed, and it does seems to be the issue you have at the junction to the wires.

at some point i expect it to fail in the same way......

i siliconed the area of mine up to hold on that little cap and then i used packing tape to create a cone of tape to support the wires and hold them steady when moving the boiler around.

the tape builds from the join of the wires area out about 15cm to stiffen it all up
IMO they are poorly made at the join, great product but...

Ditto, as soon as it started cracking I layered on silicone good & thick & when it set I wrapped it with insulation tape, it is much stronger than the original rubber, it has some flexibility, I would guess it lasted about a year before it needed this done to it, I have used it for at least 2 years since & have not had to repair again, in fact I'd say it has not degenerated at all since the fix.

 

[Parks]

I had the exact same thing happen on mine. I think it's ridiculous to have a piece of power cable attached and not a socket on the element itself.

I only had mine replaced about 3 months ago and the new one was the same with about 30cm of cord.

 

[dkaos]

I'm looking at going electric soon for my AG batches instead of gas. Could you post a pic so I ( and future electric brewers) know what to avoid?

Cheers,

Clint

 

[Filby]

I'm looking at going electric soon for my AG batches instead of gas. Could you post a pic so I ( and future electric brewers) know what to avoid?

Cheers,

Clint

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=3853

Thats the unit. Below the large plastic sleeve attached to the element is where it fails. Very annoying having to buy a replacement every year...

 

[dkaos]

Thanks for the link.

I'll bet it would be. I think i'll look into using hot water system elements. Definitely dont want to be replacing once a year.

 

[MaltyHops]

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=3853
Thats the unit. Below the large plastic sleeve attached to the
element is where it fails. Very annoying having to buy a
replacement every year...

Is that really the version of the unit you have that has the problem?
It looks like the 'updated' version (which I have one of) that has a
plug-in socket below the large plastic sleeve whereas I blieve the
original had a non-detachable cable there.

If necessary, could always get a replacement cable where the plug
as a 90 degree bend in it, I guess - something like this.

T.

 

[_HOME_BREW_WALLACE_]

I too have had issues with the stainless steel elements. The first was a big flame came out of the end just after the end of the boil and the last one, the cable just fell out while washing. but Ross from CB swapped them over without question.

 

[peaky]

I too have had issues with the stainless steel elements. The first was a big flame came out of the end just after the end of the boil and the last one, the cable just fell out while washing. but Ross from CB swapped them over without question.

Yikes!!

 

[Parks]

Is that really the version of the unit you have that has the problem?
It looks like the 'updated' version (which I have one of) that has a
plug-in socket below the large plastic sleeve whereas I blieve the
original had a non-detachable cable there.

If necessary, could always get a replacement cable where the plug
as a 90 degree bend in it, I guess - something like this.

T.

The photo on the craftbrewer website IS NOT the current one sold. They sell the one with the 30cm lead hard wired to the same socket your PC has.

 

[ledgenko]

I have used my 2200w Hot stix a few times and have noticed a bit of a meltign issue with the cable .. I assumed it was a normal thing ... but now I have read this I will be making a few mods to strengthen the join by using zip ties and insulation tape or perhaps a bit of the old 100 MPH tape ... that shit fixes everything !!!

I must admit I have really enjoyed the use of electric in comparison to gas ... it seems a heap quicker ... I am using a 40lt pot for the HLT and the Keggle ... I finished a brew in less than 3 hours yesterday excluding the 5 mins to crack the grain and the 20 minutes spent trying to find the attachment for the drill ... Bring on the motor for my mill !!!

 

[Ross]

Guys,

The element is a Keg king product & they've been working really hard to remedy the problems. All the units come with a 3 year warranty so rest assured if you have any problems they'll be replaced.

cheers Ross

 

[booargy]

Thought someone may be interested in how I fixed the problem with the cable on these elements.
I used
die cast j-box from jaycar 115x65x55mm
32mm nut from conduit fittings (could use the black boot)
cable gland
BP connectors

timber hole saw cuts the die cast

 

[booargy]

Having used these elements for a few years and countless brews. The only weakness is the lead. (ordered the new type and got the old ones so gave the retailer the flick). So I had to come up with a fix to get me by. So here are a few photos of how I fixed a burntout one. I can't say this will work but it did for me.
I TAKE NO BLAME FOR ANYONES INJURIES IF THEY HAVE A GO AT THIS. REPLACE THEM UNDER WARRANTY IF YOU CAN.
AND ALWAYS USE AN RCD IT WILL SAVE YOU LIFE.
before

Take a hacksaw and cut back the resin to expose the copper terminals

Clean up any burnt stuff and dig out any crap around the terminals. Clean well with bakers soldering flux and solder new cables on.

Use some high temperature silicon to cover the joints. Wait for it to cure and reinstall.
USE AN RCD AND DON'T TOUCH THE VESSEL WHEN FIRST TURNING IT ON. IF THE RCD TRIPS CHUCK IT.

 

[dkaos]

Sound advice mate, thanks. I just bought a couple!

Where can I get an RCD? Turks?

 

[Wolfy]

Where can I get an RCD? Turks?

RCD is installed into your meter-box by an electrician, if you've got a new (1991+) house you'll already have one.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Residual-curr...evice#Australia

 

[NickB]

Yep, I'll be running a RCCB for my dedicated 32A circuit when I finally get it installed.

As long as everything is earthed properly, then your RCD will definitely save you. However, if there's no earthing (or faulty earthing) and you touch both active and neutral, and RCD won't do a thing!

Cheers

 

[dkaos]

Thanks Wolfy, sounds like it's a safety switch. I was thinking an RCD could be run inline to the device, like what you have to use at caravan parks.

Will have to get my cousin over to install one soon.

 

[np1962]

Thanks Wolfy, sounds like it's a safety switch. I was thinking an RCD could be run inline to the device, like what you have to use at caravan parks.

Will have to get my cousin over to install one soon.

Safety switch, RCD, ELCB - all names for the same thing.
Yes you can buy portable units and run one inline to the device but as Wolfy says modern homes will have one installed in the fuse box.
Easy enough to recognise- they will have a TEST button on them and cut power when this is pressed. Should be tested regularly to ensure it is in working order.
Be aware though that, at least in SA, in the early days it was not required to have the circuit your fridge was plugged into protected. This should of been a dedicated circuit at time of installation. Nor were light circuits protected.
I'd personally ensure any electrical brewery equipment was plugged in to a protected circuit, not just your element.
Nige