Tex N Oz
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- 9/4/15
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I've noticed a trend on the forum with heating elements. There seems to be a lot of trouble with them.
I've taken up the task of designing a Triclover style heating element that will hopefully over-come all these issues.
The design is quite simple and must fulfil the following (with explanations to the side).
Here's the frame that I've removed the element from. Note the extremely small element grounding wire. The new build will have a very heavy bonded ground.
I've taken up the task of designing a Triclover style heating element that will hopefully over-come all these issues.
The design is quite simple and must fulfil the following (with explanations to the side).
- Must be 100% hermetically sealed with electrical connections encapsulated. Not just the element area, but the entire element all the way to the end of the cable.
This will allow the operator to place the element straight into a vat without having external access ports for the element, greatly increasing versatility and the ability to heat in just about any vessel.
- Element surface must be copper. The stainless steel elements on the market today are either prone to hot-spots because stainless doesn't like to conduct heat, or they're high in nickel. While not trying to start a debate on the safety of nickel, there's a very good reason you don't see nickel cookware. It seems that once you put it in a matrix that makes it safe, the HEX rate goes down. I'm going to make it simple and just go with the gold standard... copper..
I'm not sure how this would go boiling wort at lower ph, but I use gas for the boil and this is just for strike water and HERMS. Maybe someone could chimb in with some additional information. I have however seen a number of copper boil kettles in breweries.
- Element must be made either in Australia, USA or Germany. These 3 make good elements. China land elements are notorious for burning out for no reason other than hotspots in the element resistive core. A ruptured element releases toxic materials into whatever it's heating. There's a good reason that your hot-water heater is still churning hot water 24/7/365 for years and years later.
- Element must be 100% earthed and the power supply must be RCD protected. This is for safety of the operator should something catastrophically fail.
You can always buy new shit but you can't undo electrocution.
- Wiring cable must be able to withstand wet, heat and mechanical stress while in operation. This posses it's own set of problems as the cable is more expensive than just about anything else in the system. But I'm after quality, not cheap.
- No mechanical only electrical connections. All electrical connections must be fusion bonded plus mechanical. Heating and cooling of mechanical connections is #1 cause of failure in well made elements.
Here's the frame that I've removed the element from. Note the extremely small element grounding wire. The new build will have a very heavy bonded ground.