20l Stovetop All Grain Aussie Lager

[manticle]

Just put Dr Smurto's Landlord down, his Light Amber which I am sipping now (mine isn't so light) is a ripping brew - I subbed Galaxy with Citra :icon_drool2:

What is considered good efficiency with this method?

I am getting around 69% :beerbang: with the last 3 brews.

Should I expect more?

Firstly there are different methods of calculating efficiencies (and different types of efficiency: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title...ing_Efficiency)

Secondly, efficiency is mainly important for the following reasons:

Developing consistency in brewing methods, recipe development etc - which will also help lead to consistency of product if that's something you are interested in (not everyone is)

AND

Working out flaws in your processes and/or equipment.

I work on 70% and that gives me enough consistency between brews to know my recipe design is OK (I love designing recipes). I usually hit pretty close to what I expect and don't sweat it otherwise but some people love their numbers (and the relevant results) so if you're a numbers brewer then you should be able to push past 69% (again depending on definition/method of working out efficiency).

None of the above has anything to do specifically with Nick's method by the way.

 

[Nick JD]

As above. The only other thing I'd like to add is that you can go to extensive lengths to increase your efficiency, but it's a little like using those vouchers at the servo ... you fill up and present your voucher and you've saved two dollars twelve.

Hardly worth it. Considering you paid large at the Supermarket to get the damn voucher.

As long as you're not throwing grain (and barlez sugaz) down the drain, stabilising your "efficiency" will benefit your recipe development more than your wallet. End of the day we're talking a buck or two per batch.

 

[paulmclaren11]

Thanks fellas sounds like I am doing okay then.

 

[paulmclaren11]

20L batches/4KG of grain on a stovetop is pushing the limits, so you have to work hard for it. For your 2nd or 3rd attempt, your results sound pretty good. I still do all my brewing in a big W pot, and hit about 85% efficiency for a 20L batch. The most important things (that i've found) are

- Fill your pot to the brim for the mash.

- A 90 min (or longer) boil. The additional boil time means more boil off, which means you can top up with more sparge water.

- A really good sparge. You'll want more than 4L of sparge water. I top up the pot up with sparge water pre-boil (whilst it's coming up to the boil), and then again during the boil (until about 15-20mins from the end). Keeping the pot topped up (lean how full you can go without boiling over) with sparge water during the boil means you keep adding more sugar and improving your efficiency. Then I only need a couple of liters of water to top up in the fermenter.

How much sparge water do you use Glen W? I have been filling my pot to the brim for the mash (it spilt over on the weekend when I put the lid on!), and have been sparging with about 6L and topping up the boil with this - I normally boil for a 70mins or so and get between 11 - 13 litres into the fermenter (I have been straining the break to get more sugarz). I am getting around 69-70% efficiency with this method.

I wonder how much 'harder' I would need to work with sparging using your method? I don't normally use 4kg of grain - anywhere between 3.5 and 3.9kg has been the most I have been brave enough to do...

 

[sgw86]

How much sparge water do you use Glen W? I have been filling my pot to the brim for the mash (it spilt over on the weekend when I put the lid on!), and have been sparging with about 6L and topping up the boil with this - I normally boil for a 70mins or so and get between 11 - 13 litres into the fermenter (I have been straining the break to get more sugarz). I am getting around 69-70% efficiency with this method.

I wonder how much 'harder' I would need to work with sparging using your method? I don't normally use 4kg of grain - anywhere between 3.5 and 3.9kg has been the most I have been brave enough to do...

Hi,

I am fairly new to this method and have now done 2 brews (both using 4KG of Grain). My method has been to mash in 12L for 90 mins. Sparge with 6L (which involves me stirring the grain for 4-5 minutes and then letting it sit for 10mins, then draining it for a further 10mins while also squeezing the bag to get as much wort out as I can).

I then just put all the sparge water back into the main pot (usually leaves less than an inch headspace) and boil for 60mins.

In two brews I have been able to get between 70-79% efficency.

 

[paulmclaren11]

What do I need to move to full volume BIAB's?

I assume at least a 40-50tlr pot and a ring burner?

Any suggestions?

 

[Nick JD]

What do I need to move to full volume BIAB's?

Mark's Homebrew sell Braumeisters.

But I'd buy a 35-50L pot and an internal electric element.

And you'll need a hoist or something, unless you look like a condom filled with walnuts.

Couple hundred, maybe $250.

You'll be able to make double batches in your big pot too, if you use the same methods in this thread!

 

[paulmclaren11]

Yes a Braumeister would be handy :beer:

Thanks Nick

 

[paulmclaren11]

I guess the other option is to get another 19 ltr pot and split the batches?

 

[Nick JD]

I guess the other option is to get another 19 ltr pot and split the batches?

I prefer halving my batch size. Making 12L of IPA today.

Each one is different; brewing to me is as much about variety and experimentation (trying all the ingredients) as cheap piss in large volumes ... but I can see the point of big batches.

I did this thread primarily to show the abilities of cheap gear if pushed. I havent done a 20L batch in over a year myself. Usually under 17L, some 12L.

Bottom line is if you want lots of beer, buy big gear. It's only a couple hundred bux,

 

[jazzad1]

I pushed the system a bit today, using 5kg of grain instead of 4, I made a Willamette SMASH using Joe White Traditional Ale malt, it all seemed to go well

this is my 4th brew with the 2 19L pots, the first one followed the aussie lager recipe in this thread, and the other 2 have been SMASH's one using Cascade hops, and the other using Northern Brewer

I still don't know how to calculate my efficiency, I may have read it somewhere, but I can't find it again

can anyone help me out? I can find how to calculate efficiency for a regular full volume BIAB but not for this higher gravity variety of brewing

thanks in advance!

 

[Nick JD]

How much grain you use and how many (X) liters of 1.0XX beer you have in your fermenter is "efficiency".

There are different types of efficiency - but this is the real one.

 

[zwagerman9]

Ok. My first biab, but, 8 dollars bunnings bin. 19 litre big w stock pot. Super easy to sparge. Cheers. Rae

 

[zwagerman9]

Ok. My first biab, but, 8 dollars bunnings bin. 19 litre big w stock pot. Super easy to sparge. Cheers. Rae

Holes drilled in the bottle ** sorry

 

[paulmclaren11]

Yes I use a bucket in a bucket BIAB press with holes in the bottom to 'squeeze' the bag for me. Saves burning my hands!!

 

[Nick JD]

Using non-food-grade utensils and vessels gives your beer a signature flavour all its own. That's why I insist on green buckets, as they are hoppy. The blue ones taste fruity and the red ones taste like salsa.

Nah - but seriously, I use a 15L SS pot for that sorta thing. If ya balls start to shrink or you start to ejaculate dust - eliminate the plastics.

 

[beerdrinkingbob]

If ya balls start to shrink or you start to ejaculate dust - eliminate the plastics.

Gold!!!!

 

[zwagerman9]

Using non-food-grade utensils and vessels gives your beer a signature flavour all its own. That's why I insist on green buckets, as they are hoppy. The blue ones taste fruity and the red ones taste like salsa.

Nah - but seriously, I use a 15L SS pot for that sorta thing. If ya balls start to shrink or you start to ejaculate dust - eliminate the plastics.

And if it was already a pre existing condition.... haha

 

[zwagerman9]

Taking some advice, NickJD. By eliminating non food grade plastic at a relatively cheap cost I thought.
I will buy another 19litre stainless steel pot, and drill holes in the bottom to make it more food safe. Use it the same as the bucket idea to sparge the grain.
But wont kill me in the long run.

Anyone done this?

Cheers

Rae

 

[Nick JD]

Taking some advice, NickJD. By eliminating non food grade plastic at a relatively cheap cost I thought.
I will buy another 19litre stainless steel pot, and drill holes in the bottom to make it more food safe. Use it the same as the bucket idea to sparge the grain.
But wont kill me in the long run.

Anyone done this?

Cheers

Rae

Or, get a 15L pot, take the handles off, cut some of the bottom out and line it with a screen, and use it as a "malt pipe" - watch a youtube video of how a braumeister works.

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=954340