2007 Hop Plantations

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Mine just had one small branch of off small flowers, not hanging cones...


Hi Sinkas. I am not sure if this Link will take you to the page in last years thread where I included photos of my male plant. If not, it is Page 16 of "2006 Hop Plantations"

BTW, I didnt use the flowers from the male.

ATOMT
 
Mine just had one small branch of off small flowers, not hanging cones...

If the small 'flowers' looked like this they were burrs from which the female cones develop:

femaleburrsgn4.jpg


Mature male flowers especially when shaken produce clouds of pollen:

maleflowerstq2.jpg


(Maybe its another male plant from the same Tassy supplier where ATOMT got his 'Mt Hood' male) ??

As to "...will it affect the rest of my vines" ...yes it will make them bigger!
Check out the picture in the paragraph titled "Seeded vs Seedless hops" here: (scroll down about a third)
Seeded vs Seedless hops.
There are lots of wild hops growing all over the UK so you could find seeds in their diploid hops,
they don't like them because I think they jam up the picking machines.
Male hops are illegal over certain areas of Europe.
 
Hi all,
Well in examining those photos, mine is definitely Male, but on review of that article, Ill just leve it in place, its the strongest plant I have and looks like it would be a PITA to dig out now anyway.
 
For those growing Wurtemberger, finally some information, courtesy of Alexbrand in Germany.



Hi!

Short info, what my german brewing colleagues found out:

USDA ACCESSION No.: 21682
SELECTION: No information
GENUS: Humulus
SPECIES: lupulus
CULTIVAR: Wuerttemberger
PEDIGREE: no information
PRIMARY SITE USDA/OSU Hop Research Farm, Corvallis, OR.
ORIGIN Hop Unioin USA, Yakima WA (Dr. Greg Lewis) who had obtained it from Germany
DATE RECEIVED: Spring 1993
METHOD RECEIVED: rhizomes
AVAILBILITY: no restrictions
REFERENCES: Annual Repoprt of Hop Research, USDA/ARS 1993 and later years
MATURITY: medium early
LEAF COLOR: light green
SEX: female
DISEASES: Downy mildew: moderately resdistant
Powdery mildew: No information
Verticillium wilt. Tolerant
Viruses: No information
VIGOR: fair to good
YIELD: poor
SIDE ARM LENGTH: 12 to 30 inches
ALPHA ACIDS: 5 %
BETA ACIDS: 4 %
COHUMULONE: 28 %
STORAGE STABILITY: good, retained about 72% of its original alpha acids after
6 months room temperature storage
OIL: 1.25 ml/ 100 g. Humulene18%; caryophyllene 6%; farnesene 4%
Myrcene 59%. H/C ratio = 3.00
MAJOR TRAITS: pleasant continental aroma characteristics
OTHER INFORMATION: This is an old German hop which no longer is grown commercially. It may be related to Tettnanger of Saazer.

And from a query to Hopco:

The Wurtemberger that you purchased from Stewart was imported from Germany in the late 80’s. It was sent to us as a variety that may be of interest and that might grow well in Australia. I do not have any information in my system on this variety any more. For further information you might try Joh Barth & Sohn in Germany. You might also find the spelling WURTTEMBERGER will give you more information.

John Ross


Certainly works well as a flavour/aroma hop using fresh flowers.
 
BUMP - Gonna plant my hops today....can someone tell me if this is right? Just gonna plant em in pots for now till i landscape my garden.,,

Going to Bunnings to buy 20litre + maybe bigger pots, with some quality potting mix...well draining of course.....

Fill pots half with potting mix, make a bit of a hole throw the hop root thingo in and fill up rest of pot with soil? how much "hop" has to be sticking out?

Should i mound the soil around the base of the plant or leave the soil flat in a pot?

help greatly apprciated.
 
BUMP - Gonna plant my hops today....can someone tell me if this is right? Just gonna plant em in pots for now till i landscape my garden.,,

Going to Bunnings to buy 20litre + maybe bigger pots, with some quality potting mix...well draining of course.....

Fill pots half with potting mix, make a bit of a hole throw the hop root thingo in and fill up rest of pot with soil? how much "hop" has to be sticking out?

Should i mound the soil around the base of the plant or leave the soil flat in a pot?

help greatly apprciated.

Instructions for Growing Hops (Humulus Lupus)

Hops are a perennial climbing plant, they are incredibly hardy and aside from the brewing benefits, make an attractive ornamental plant. They can be grown on a trellis or a pergola in full sun and need to grow from east to west. It is supplied to you as a rhizome or rootstock.

If you are not ready to plant your rhizomes, keep them refrigerated (not the freezer) in a plastic bag in the vegetable crisper. Try to plant them by no later than September the 1st.

A very manageable hop plant will be trained to grow vertically to 1.5-2 metres then 3-5 metres horizontally. This will make the training of the bine and harvesting safe and easy.

Generally, they are grown in latitudes where the days are long enough for them to successfully go through their growing cycle, hence the major hop growing regions of the world lie between the 35th and 55th parallels.

However, hops have been grown successfully in the south of W.A., in the Adelaide Hills, and NSW. We also know of brewers with successful yet small yielding crops in Qld.
Commercially they are grown in Victoria and Tasmania.

The rhizome should be transplanted into well-mulched soil either in a pot (bigger than 20 litre and only for the first year) or the ground in a sunny position and a northern aspect.
Plant the rhizome vertically with the buds pointing upwards or horizontally if you cant tell.
Either way keep them under 2-3 cms of soil.
If you are planting more than one rhizome then space them 2 metres apart.

Ensure that there is a spot where you can tie several pieces of household string or baling twine from the pot up to a trellis or high post so that it can climb. Under ideal conditions it can grow up to 250mm per day, usually they manage 500-600mm in a week.

The rhizome will produce shoots during spring which, once long enough, must be trained to follow the string. No more than 2-3 bines at a time per string. Wind the shoots in a CLOCKWISE direction (looking from the top) around the string otherwise it will not climb effectively.

Once there are sufficient bines growing upward, any new growth should be pinched off to promote bine growth.

Whilst growing, the plant should be thoroughly watered every 7 days (every 2nd day in >35C weather) with high nitrogen fertiliser added once a month.

Flowers (cones) will develop on the lateral side-arms and try to keep these from tangling. Maturity will be reached between March and April. Commence harvesting once the cones feel paper dry and the tips start to turn brown. 2-3 harvestings are normal, this ensures that you are harvesting the whole crop at its peak.

Cones can be dried on fly screen wire in the sun for two or three days or in a cool oven in a few hours until they are fluffy and light. Afterwards they should be packed airtight in freezer bags or jars and kept in the freezer.

IMPORTANT: Once the plant has reached maximum height and laterals have started to grow the bottom metre or so of each bine MUST be stripped from the plant to avoid the growth of various soil borne fungi and to ensure good air circulation at the base of the plant.

Once the hops have been picked, the bines can be cut off at ground level and disposed of. In the following spring the process will start all over again, hopefully youll have used up the previous years harvest!
 
Thanks heaps steve i would of planted them with there buds in the soil for sure! glad i didnt.
 
Thanks heaps steve i would of planted them with there buds in the soil for sure! glad i didnt.


it'd prolly still grow....cant kill em with a stick :D
 
Just planted a Tettnanger and a Columbus in a brand new hop garden I dug out on the west side of the shed out the back. It gets plenty of afternoon sun, and is probably the only practical space I had to grow them. I planted them in a mixture of compost, mulch, chook poo and soil, hopefully I haven't over-fertilised them.

Will post some photos when/if they pop up.
 
After a week in the soil i have seen some activity all ready, here are some pics of my columbus and tettnanger.

week1Columbus.jpg
- Columbus

week1tettnanger.jpg
- Tettnanger
 
After a week in the soil i have seen some activity all ready, here are some pics of my columbus and tettnanger.

week1Columbus.jpg
- Columbus

week1tettnanger.jpg
- Tettnanger


yum.....give them a few more inches and chop them off, saute in frying pan with butter and eat on crackers....same as asparagus. Its quite common apprently but ive never done it.
Cheers
Steve
 
A few days of warmer weather & my little beauty has sprouted :)

hop_pic.jpg


cheers Ross
 
Brought some Goldings and Columbos from Rupert which will go in the ground this weekend. Yippeee. Can someone who has grown hops for a season please clarify which way they grow around the twine.

The US sites say clockwise so my thinking is that it should be counter clockwise in the southern hemisphere. But the instructions on the grumpys site and some of the advise above says clockwise (???). There is a good article on the Oz crafterbrewer site that says counter clockwise.

If the hops follow the sun during the day, then it seems logical that they will grow around the twine counter clockwise as they follow the sun during the day - based on looking down the twine.

Any help appreciated.

richard.
 
Mine have been very happy going clockwise for three years
 
My hops have been in the ground for 2 weeks now and already making great progress. my trellis was obtained from bunnings. Was wondering just how i was going to build one. With so many different setups around was having trouble finding which one to go with until I found a bamboo extendable one. Really cheap ($20) and functional. just gotta get the hops to 8cm then they can climb.

youth___ava_015.jpg
 
Steve

Thanks. Maybe either way is OK.

I've got two so might try one, one way and one the other and see what happens.

ta - richard.
 
:(

mine have been in the ground for nearly 3 weeks and nada. Too bloody cold still and have had some scary frosts. Took a bucket of luke warm water to get my windscreen wipers to move yesterday. Place looked like it has snowed. Hoping they are working hard underground getting their root systems going........ :unsure:
 
Rupert's rhizones have arrived and will be planted this weekend. Read a bit about what I am trying to do. But since I've been recognised as a gardener capable of killing wallpaper flowers,we'll see what happens, shall we ??
 
I was i one of the lucky lads to get some of Ruperts rhizomes...

Here is the "Victoria" he sent...going sweet!! :super:

vichops.jpg

and a little cluster...(if my memory serves me)

cluster.jpg



And here is last years... unfortunatly it fired up a bit early with a nice bunch of buds but i think it got hit with a second dose of frost which killed it back to this again..

dead.jpg

anyone had that before?? i'm a bit worried the little fella wont make it now.. :unsure:

Sqyre...
 
wow, that victoria's pumpin!

I read somwhere that the frost you need to be careful of is the -20c kind. My POR and Tettnanger rose to about a meter last year before completely dying off. Not sure why, but im not too worried coz they grow like weeds apparently.
 

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