newguy
To err is human, to arrr is pirate
- Joined
- 8/11/06
- Messages
- 2,225
- Reaction score
- 35
SJW: you're right about the physics - I guess the bottle wouldn't leak.
RetsamHsam: I'd also advise against putting all the hops in at 15 min or less. Nevermind the beer's stability/longevity, consider how much hops you'll need @ 15 min or less to hit 100 IBU! I've never made an all late-hopped beer, but I've tasted beers that friends have made with all late hopping and to be honest they don't really stand up favourably against traditionally hopped beers (those with a bittering addition). Keep your recipe as is but add a dry hop addition - about 60g for 20l beer - and you'll have plenty of aroma.
That aside, I don't see a problem with your grist, as I think that 30% munich malt will add a nice dimension. I made a Belgian pale ale with 70/30 pale/munich and it was to die for. I think the munich will add a solid malt backbone to support the aggressive hopping.
RetsamHsam: I'd also advise against putting all the hops in at 15 min or less. Nevermind the beer's stability/longevity, consider how much hops you'll need @ 15 min or less to hit 100 IBU! I've never made an all late-hopped beer, but I've tasted beers that friends have made with all late hopping and to be honest they don't really stand up favourably against traditionally hopped beers (those with a bittering addition). Keep your recipe as is but add a dry hop addition - about 60g for 20l beer - and you'll have plenty of aroma.
That aside, I don't see a problem with your grist, as I think that 30% munich malt will add a nice dimension. I made a Belgian pale ale with 70/30 pale/munich and it was to die for. I think the munich will add a solid malt backbone to support the aggressive hopping.