1st Time At Bulk Priming

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Lancey

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I'm into my 5th brew since September.
I am looking at bulk priming, this will be my first attempt.
My questions are how much dextrose do I put into my priming bin on a standard 23lt brew?
Do I put dextrose straight in the bin or do I dilute it, if so with what, my brew or water and how much?
Also do I bottle straight after priming or wait a while (1 day or so).
Any guidance would most great full.
 
Lancey

good move bulk priming kicks ass

1. Use around 180g dextrose
2. Boil 2 cups of water and dissolve the dextrose in it (cover and wait until it cools)
3. Add to a second bottleing bucket (spare fermenter) and run your fermented wort into it via a sanitized tube making it swirl to mix (should do this by itself)
4. Bottle

im sure there is a better explaination in John Palmers how to brew under priming(heres the link)
bulk priming
 
agree with the above comments, however i would be weary using just the standard 180g of dextrose as it could lead to overpriming and bottle bombs. There are numerous calculators which help you decide the right dosage of sugar for bulk priming based on beer style and final fermentation temp i.e dissolved C02

cheers :party:
 
agree with the above comments, however i would be weary using just the standard 180g of dextrose as it could lead to overpriming and bottle bombs. There are numerous calculators which help you decide the right dosage of sugar for bulk priming based on beer style and final fermentation temp i.e dissolved C02

cheers :party:

Correctomuno - go with wimby's suggestion, depends upon the finishing gravity of the wort, the desired level of carbonation, volume of wort, temp etc, so use a priming calculator, it's a piece of cake.

Screwy
 
agree with the above comments, however i would be weary using just the standard 180g of dextrose as it could lead to overpriming and bottle bombs. There are numerous calculators which help you decide the right dosage of sugar for bulk priming based on beer style and final fermentation temp i.e dissolved C02

cheers

I must say that if the beer is fully fermented there is no way 180g of dex will cause anything to blow up, unless your only priming 12 litres of beer.
I have bottled 23 litres of Duvel clone with 300g of Dex and nothing went bang in the night.
If the beer is finished fermenting, and is chilled prior to opening, and there is no faults in your bottles I would say its almost imposible to make a bomb.
If anyone wants to brew a Big Belgian Blond and prime with 12g dex per litre you can drop em around to me and let them condition under my bed.
Then I get to drink em ;)
But seriously, IF THE BEER IS FINISHED FERMENTING, you will be hard pressed to balls up.
Just go between, 23 litres of stout/porter 100g dex (light carbonation) up to 23 litres of Belgian Strong/Wheat beer 250g dex (high carbonation) and anything in between for the others.

Steve
 
Wow, using beersmith I wanted 2.5 volumes in a 25L saison served at 5C and it said to add ~100g.... is there something wrong with that calculator?

just realised it was talking about corn syrup...is it really that much more fermentable than dex?
 
Wow, using beersmith I wanted 2.5 volumes in a 25L saison served at 5C and it said to add ~100g.... is there something wrong with that calculator?

just realised it was talking about corn syrup...is it really that much more fermentable than dex?

Just be careful; with Beersmith. The carbonation is based on the Batch size. Its a long story but my batch size is the final volume left in the kettle. So to work out carbonation I need to subtract kettle losses and racking losses so be careful you donr over carbonate!.

Steve
 
Is that how its meant to work? I always thought the 'batch size' was what you get in the fermenter (once chilled etc) - at least thats how it works for me, I've entered values for trub losses etc... hmm maybe i should take marks advice and just do my calcs by hand so i know exactly what im calculating lol
 
With Bulk Priming is it absolutely necessary to use a second vessel to mix to the dex into or can you just put it into the primary and give it a stir before bottling??
 
The problem you'll have is:
You might oxidise the beer and will not be able to mix it properly.
When tranferring it to the second vessel it does it by swirling around and a gentle stir usually enough!
 
Is that how its meant to work? I always thought the 'batch size' was what you get in the fermenter (once chilled etc) - at least thats how it works for me, I've entered values for trub losses etc... hmm maybe i should take marks advice and just do my calcs by hand so i know exactly what im calculating lol

Sammus there is a carbonation tool on the left hand menu that lets you put in the batch volume. Also the temperature is the temperature of the beer at priming/bottling, not at serving temp. If you are carbonating a keg it is the temperature of the keg at the time of carbonating.

Hope this helps

Kabooby :)
 
For the sake of adding an n-th opinion, I'll add mine to the mix. Firstly, that article is great: Read it, learn it, and follow it.

Here's what I do: Keep in mind, you may need to adjust numbers slightly to suit your environment/tastes.

1. Remind yourself that there are no stupid questions, only stupid people. Stupid people are the ones that don't ask questions. (Not to be confused with stupid opinions, which are those that conflict with mine :p)

2. Check that fermentation has stopped. Once you're sure, wait a couple more days, and check it again. Then ask yourself, "Has it really stopped?" (Can't stress this one enough, but it applies to all bottle carbonation).

3. Measure out about 120-140g of table sugar (more or less depending on desired carbonation). I find that dex takes too long to ferment, especially in winter. Table sugar will be carbonated in a week; two tops). Before people shout out, "you shouldn't rush a good beer", faster carbonation means you can start tasting your beer earlier, and get a feel for how it is changing with time - it's an excellent educational experience. Table sugar has been known to impart a slightly "cidery" flavour, but unless you're making award-winning beers with highly controlled fermentation conditions, you're not going to notice it with the quantities needed for standard carbonation pressure.

4. Add sugar to 300mL of water, and bring to the boil for a couple of minutes, stirring constantly. It's normal for the solution to discolour slightly at this point, but you shouldn't have black scorch marks on the bottom of your saucepan. If you can still see grains of sugar, then you may need to add a little more water - bring to boil again.

5. Add sugar solution to the bottom of an empty, sanitised fermenter - your priming bucket. The priming bucket should have a closed tap in place (check it again!), but no sediment reducer.

6. Connect a sanitised hose from primary fermenter, and let it coil around neatly near the edges, in the bottom of your priming bucket. Try to keep the end of hose away from the plastic "block" that the tap connects to, as this may cause splashing.

7. Remove the airlock from the primary, and turn the primary tap until beer starts slowly flowing. Let the beer trickle out really slowly until the end of the hose is well submerged. You can now gently turn the primary tap to increase the flow, which should start a slow whirlpool in your bottling bucket.

8. Turn the primary tap off as soon as you see bubbles entering the hose.

9. Gently stir the priming bucket with a sanitised paddle or spoon, being careful not to splash it. This will help to distribute the sugar evenly.

Tips:
* I carefully tilt my primary fermenter as it gets towards empty to get more out of it.
* Placing the lid loosely on the priming bucket while you're transferring to reduce exposure to nasties.
* Sanitise everything you need before you start: priming bucket, hose, paddle. You don't need to sanitise the saucepan or whatever you're using to hold the sugar while you're weighing it.
* Bottle as soon as you can to prevent strata layers from forming (the sugar may sink slightly over time). If you must leave it in the priming bucked for an hour or so, make sure it's covered, and give it another gentle stir before bottling.
 
Sammus there is a carbonation tool on the left hand menu that lets you put in the batch volume. Also the temperature is the temperature of the beer at priming/bottling, not at serving temp. If you are carbonating a keg it is the temperature of the keg at the time of carbonating.

Hope this helps

Kabooby :)

I was more talking about the 'batch volume' field in the recipe designer in beersmith. I always put in 25L because thats how much I want to end up with.


And re the carbing bit, wouldnt that be the serving temperature? have you ever noticed a warm coke bottlle is really hard and the coke is near flat, even when new. The warmness means not as much co2 in solution, so theres more pressure in the headspace (they reach a kind of equilibrium). So I figured id be the same in a beer bottle...
 
ok, so i did my first bulk prime the other day. i guess i shouldnt have rushed in so quickly but heres what i did and can someone tell me if it wont work?

i put around 150grams of dex into the bottom of my cube (my racking container), then i racked the beer (from primary fermenter) into it, around 21L i recon all up.

but i couldnt bottle it straight away, i waited 1 day.


so im wondering, will it be messed up cos i didnt mix the dex into boiling water first?? meaning is unevenly mixed? i tried to get the tube to land in the pile of dex to mix it up.

and cos i left it in the cube for a day, will this screw it up and leave the beer flat??


when i ended up bottling the beer, i had to remove the cap of the cube after a few litres because no beer was coming out (needed air going in to to eqalise it) and alot of gas escaped, is this the bubbles i wanted in my bottles?? :(

on the upside it was a dark, bitter ale, so i dont need TOO many bubbles to make it taste good


thanks
gerald
 
ok, so i did my first bulk prime the other day. i guess i shouldnt have rushed in so quickly but heres what i did and can someone tell me if it wont work?

i put around 150grams of dex into the bottom of my cube (my racking container), then i racked the beer (from primary fermenter) into it, around 21L i recon all up.

but i couldnt bottle it straight away, i waited 1 day.
so im wondering, will it be messed up cos i didnt mix the dex into boiling water first?? meaning is unevenly mixed? i tried to get the tube to land in the pile of dex to mix it up.

and cos i left it in the cube for a day, will this screw it up and leave the beer flat??
when i ended up bottling the beer, i had to remove the cap of the cube after a few litres because no beer was coming out (needed air going in to to eqalise it) and alot of gas escaped, is this the bubbles i wanted in my bottles?? :(

on the upside it was a dark, bitter ale, so i dont need TOO many bubbles to make it taste good
thanks
gerald

Always dissolve your sugar/dextrose in boiling water first to make it easier for it to mix into the wort. Get your racking hose long enough to have a coil in the bottom to create a whirlpool....and bottle straight away. Some of the priming sugar could have been eaten up by the yeasties by leaving it a day. You might just get away with it. When I first bulk primed I left it for 2/3 days and then bottled resulting in flat beer.
Cheers
Steve
 
Always dissolve your sugar/dextrose in boiling water first to make it easier for it to mix into the wort. Get your racking hose long enough to have a coil in the bottom to create a whirlpool....and bottle straight away. Some of the priming sugar could have been eaten up by the yeasties by leaving it a day. You might just get away with it. When I first bulk primed I left it for 2/3 days and then bottled resulting in flat beer.
Cheers
Steve


There you have it, from experience :D
 
bummer :(

oh well, guess i will see what happens in a fortnight. atleast i know for future reference :p

i cant wait to make something where everything works - temps, ingredients are good, bulk priming is good, not too watery. golly im looking forward to it :-D


hahaha, guess i just gotta hope 1 day wasnt enough for ALL the sugar to disapear.

thanks
cya
gerald
 
bummer :(

oh well, guess i will see what happens in a fortnight. atleast i know for future reference :p

i cant wait to make something where everything works - temps, ingredients are good, bulk priming is good, not too watery. golly im looking forward to it :-D
hahaha, guess i just gotta hope 1 day wasnt enough for ALL the sugar to disapear.

thanks
cya
gerald

I did get around my flat beer problem by de-capping them all and using a syringe top up the bottle with a certain amount of dissolved sugar solution and re-capping them. Worked a treat. See how you go. If in a few weeks they arent looking too promising give us a hoy. I think from memory I used 5mls of sugar solution per longneck when topping them up.
Cheers
Steve
 
And re the carbing bit, wouldnt that be the serving temperature? have you ever noticed a warm coke bottlle is really hard and the coke is near flat, even when new. The warmness means not as much co2 in solution, so theres more pressure in the headspace (they reach a kind of equilibrium). So I figured id be the same in a beer bottle...

I'm pretty sure the temperature is the temperature at the time of carbonation because it is from this that you can work out how much residual CO2 is in the beer. I use this calculator: http://www.geocities.com/lesjudith/Alcohol...Calculator.html
You can easily see how much changing the temperature affects the residual carbonation and priming rate.

You are right about the serving temperature affecting the carbonation when drinking, but I don't think it would have that much effect.
 

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