manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
Couldn't agree more.
1st Ag Questions
- Thread starter losp
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Couldn't agree more.
I hadnt realised there was a time out for editing topics... wanted to edit the first page. anyway...
Thanks to help from everyone who posted in this thread and A LOT!! of help from screwtop i have updated my checklist. I feel a lot more confident now.
Please let me know if i have something wrong, or something could be improved:
Oktoberfest beer
Single infusion, batch sparge
Batch: 20L
boil size: 26.88L
Ingredients:
3629gm Vienna Malt
454gm Munich II Malt
227gm Caramunich II Malt
227gm Crystal Malt Medium
20gm tettnang
20gm hallertauer hersbrucker
350gm cane sugar
WYeast 2308
brew steps:
1)get a big bucket of sanitising water to use before using utensils
2)activate smack-pack for 4 hours
3)boil 300gm + 3L of malt extract for 15 minutes
4)put all of yeast starter (125ml) into pitcher with boiled malt and water
5)12 or so hours later prepare for brewing
6)Get an electric kettle (kitchen variety) and pre boil it
7)boil 30L of water in HLT to 75 degrees
8)add 14L of water to the mashtun at 75 degrees (will be about 66 degrees when mixed with grain)
9)pour grain in after water, get rid of clumps
10)check temp for future reference (temp loss)
11)use electric kettle or cold water if needed to reach desired temp
12)stir, shut lid, let sit or 60 minutes, check tempereture and stir half way through
13)before mash-in finished heat hlt to 90degrees
14) Water to wort boiler:
grain absorbtion: 4.54
runoff: 2 x 13.5 (26.88 rounded)
15)add 4L (14L-4.5L+4L=13.5L) of strike water at 90degrees for 5 minutes
16)tap out 1L or so into a jug, slowly put back in. do this 2 or 3 times till clear-ish
17)tap out and drain to boiler (could take 10 mins)
18)add 13.5L to mash tun, stir, let sit for 5 + mins
19)tap out 1L or so into a jug, slowly put back in. do this 2 or 3 times till clear-ish
20)tap out and drain to boiler (could take 10 mins)
21)boil wort kettle
22)add tetnang bittering after 20 minutes boiling
23)add hallertauer aroma after 30 mins boiling
24)add cane sugar 15 minutes before flame-out as ingredients possibly too sweet
25)add whirlfloc 10 minutes before flame-out
26)after 60 minutes turn off burner
27)check water ammount for future reference
28)whirlpool to make tannings form a coneshaped thingy at the bottom
29)and put wort chiller in, chill till 14 degrees is reached
30)when chilled to desired temperature, aerate with a soup ladel (40 or so times)
31)tap out boiled wort to fermenter (might be around 12 degrees by this time)
32)pitch yeast
33)put in temp-fridge
34)have a beer from the last brew
Thanks to help from everyone who posted in this thread and A LOT!! of help from screwtop i have updated my checklist. I feel a lot more confident now.
Please let me know if i have something wrong, or something could be improved:
Oktoberfest beer
Single infusion, batch sparge
Batch: 20L
boil size: 26.88L
Ingredients:
3629gm Vienna Malt
454gm Munich II Malt
227gm Caramunich II Malt
227gm Crystal Malt Medium
20gm tettnang
20gm hallertauer hersbrucker
350gm cane sugar
WYeast 2308
brew steps:
1)get a big bucket of sanitising water to use before using utensils
2)activate smack-pack for 4 hours
3)boil 300gm + 3L of malt extract for 15 minutes
4)put all of yeast starter (125ml) into pitcher with boiled malt and water
5)12 or so hours later prepare for brewing
6)Get an electric kettle (kitchen variety) and pre boil it
7)boil 30L of water in HLT to 75 degrees
8)add 14L of water to the mashtun at 75 degrees (will be about 66 degrees when mixed with grain)
9)pour grain in after water, get rid of clumps
10)check temp for future reference (temp loss)
11)use electric kettle or cold water if needed to reach desired temp
12)stir, shut lid, let sit or 60 minutes, check tempereture and stir half way through
13)before mash-in finished heat hlt to 90degrees
14) Water to wort boiler:
grain absorbtion: 4.54
runoff: 2 x 13.5 (26.88 rounded)
15)add 4L (14L-4.5L+4L=13.5L) of strike water at 90degrees for 5 minutes
16)tap out 1L or so into a jug, slowly put back in. do this 2 or 3 times till clear-ish
17)tap out and drain to boiler (could take 10 mins)
18)add 13.5L to mash tun, stir, let sit for 5 + mins
19)tap out 1L or so into a jug, slowly put back in. do this 2 or 3 times till clear-ish
20)tap out and drain to boiler (could take 10 mins)
21)boil wort kettle
22)add tetnang bittering after 20 minutes boiling
23)add hallertauer aroma after 30 mins boiling
24)add cane sugar 15 minutes before flame-out as ingredients possibly too sweet
25)add whirlfloc 10 minutes before flame-out
26)after 60 minutes turn off burner
27)check water ammount for future reference
28)whirlpool to make tannings form a coneshaped thingy at the bottom
29)and put wort chiller in, chill till 14 degrees is reached
30)when chilled to desired temperature, aerate with a soup ladel (40 or so times)
31)tap out boiled wort to fermenter (might be around 12 degrees by this time)
32)pitch yeast
33)put in temp-fridge
34)have a beer from the last brew
manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
Probably you know this but worth pointing out.
Yeah but your right, its a good thing to write down. will help me to better arrange schedule as well.
Hi Guys,
Thank you ALL for your help so far. i have still a lot of questions.
I had a few issues going on on my personal life so i wasnt able to take too many gravity readings. 4 days ago it was on 1020 (i should have perhaps done a diacetyl test at this stage, but it didnt taste like i needed to) and i forgot about it for a few days. Last night it was 1010 (dont know how long its been there for, or if it can go further down) and i racked to secondary (put it in another fermenter [hurrily sanitized] and set fridge to 5 degrees). But i didnt let it sit for 3 days on FG which i believe is reccomended, is this going to be a problem?
Also my beer seemed to have a lot of floaties! i believe this is because i cut the slits too big on my DIY copper manifold, so a lot of the smaller grains got in ( I am going to get some plumbers sealent and go a little nuts before next brew to make the holes smaller to reduce this) As a result too much grain got into my wort boiler and when i was tapping out. the tap got stuck. So i cracked it and just tipped it all in to my fermenter, i was planning to leave the crap on the bottom in there, but i forgot and tipped quite a bit of it in until i realised and there was only a little bit of gunk that i didnt tip in. When i was taking hydro readings it was always very cloudy and i could see lots of floaties, the beer tasted fine but i dont think its desirable.
Anyway, i had the idea last night to put it through a straining bag when i racked to secondary. I think this worked! it caught quite a bit of gunk. I didn't look on any forums for this idea, so i am wondering if i might have done anything bad to it by doing this?
My plan from now is to leave it at about 5 degrees till december, and bottle it then (put carbonation drops in when i do so) and pull it out at christmass lunch. Anyone see any flaws in this plan?
Thanks! sorry about the long post! and sorry about my poor grammar and spelling. i am an I.T consultant (thats why i can use home brew forums while i am at work), it is not necessary in my line of work.
Cheers :beer:
Oh yeah and
SG: 1058
FG: 1010
Thank you ALL for your help so far. i have still a lot of questions.
I had a few issues going on on my personal life so i wasnt able to take too many gravity readings. 4 days ago it was on 1020 (i should have perhaps done a diacetyl test at this stage, but it didnt taste like i needed to) and i forgot about it for a few days. Last night it was 1010 (dont know how long its been there for, or if it can go further down) and i racked to secondary (put it in another fermenter [hurrily sanitized] and set fridge to 5 degrees). But i didnt let it sit for 3 days on FG which i believe is reccomended, is this going to be a problem?
Also my beer seemed to have a lot of floaties! i believe this is because i cut the slits too big on my DIY copper manifold, so a lot of the smaller grains got in ( I am going to get some plumbers sealent and go a little nuts before next brew to make the holes smaller to reduce this) As a result too much grain got into my wort boiler and when i was tapping out. the tap got stuck. So i cracked it and just tipped it all in to my fermenter, i was planning to leave the crap on the bottom in there, but i forgot and tipped quite a bit of it in until i realised and there was only a little bit of gunk that i didnt tip in. When i was taking hydro readings it was always very cloudy and i could see lots of floaties, the beer tasted fine but i dont think its desirable.
Anyway, i had the idea last night to put it through a straining bag when i racked to secondary. I think this worked! it caught quite a bit of gunk. I didn't look on any forums for this idea, so i am wondering if i might have done anything bad to it by doing this?
My plan from now is to leave it at about 5 degrees till december, and bottle it then (put carbonation drops in when i do so) and pull it out at christmass lunch. Anyone see any flaws in this plan?
Thanks! sorry about the long post! and sorry about my poor grammar and spelling. i am an I.T consultant (thats why i can use home brew forums while i am at work), it is not necessary in my line of work.
Cheers :beer:
Oh yeah and
SG: 1058
FG: 1010
Mmmmeeeaahh floaties-schmoaties who cares, wouldn't risk any straining/seiving splashing. By the way 58-10/58=82 so Apparent Attenuation 82%.............Nice!
Screwy
Thanks screwy! Yeah its not to bad for a 1st go isn't it!?
not until no more grain was coming through. Just about 3 or so times. I think i would be going forever if i did it until the grain stops comign through. I dont have the patients for that!
another question. when i racked to secondary i just tapped out till it couldnt go anymore (still about 3 litres or so of room in the bottom of the fermenter) so there would have been most of the yeast in the bottom of the st fermenter. My question is, would the secondary vessel still have enough yeast in it? and should i be priming?
cheers.
Losp.
cheers.
Losp.
manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
Secondary vessel will have plenty of yeast in suspension if everything has worked out right.
Not sure what you mean by 'should I be priming'. Any reason you think you wouldn't?
Not sure what you mean by 'should I be priming'. Any reason you think you wouldn't?
No reason, i just haven't done it thats all!
manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
When you've finished secondary fermentation and conditioned as long as you want to then fine and prime as normal (presuming you are bottling).
yep well i was just going to put the carb dops in while bottling (what i usually do in 1 stage fermenting) but now that it is racked to secondary. do i need to put anything extra in it? it is pretty much final gravity and would have only a little bit of yeast in it. is that cool to sit like that till early December?
thanks manticle (once again)
thanks manticle (once again)
manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
It should be fine. Try and keep the temperature low. Personally once final gravity is reached I like to leave a brew for 3-7 days then put it under refrigeration at around 2 degrees. There is more than one way to skin a cat obviously.
No need to put anything in the brew until bottling except finings if you use them or want to use them. You can also bulk prime if you want (instead of carb drops) but this is done just before bottling (normally around 30-60 minutes for me)
No need to put anything in the brew until bottling except finings if you use them or want to use them. You can also bulk prime if you want (instead of carb drops) but this is done just before bottling (normally around 30-60 minutes for me)
