Wort chiller

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Copper will transfer the heat better than stainless, but stainless can be easier to clean.

Stainless is also more bling, which often negates any benefit that the copper provides :)

And copper is of course going to be cheaper, and possibly easier to source depending where you are (you can pick up copper tubing from the big blue/green sheds)

What type of chiller are you looking for? An immersion chiller is pretty basic to put together even if your not to handy. A counter flow chiller can also be built reasonably simply to if you can use a few basic tools. There's plenty of guides on building either if you get your Google foo going.
 
Fully agree with what Glen W wrote.
In addition it is worth considering that Copper is much easier to bend than stainless so if you are looking to bend your own immersion chiller, copper is pretty much the only choice.
Copper will also tarnish over time so if you don't brew regularly you may need to spend some time cleaning up your copper immersion chiller with either vinegar or lemon juice + salt and water.

Given that the primary purpose of a chiller is to bring the temperature of your boiled wort down quickly, copper with its improved thermal conductivity is also the best at that task.

Cheers

Roller
 
Copper it is. Have an ex plumber as a father in law he will be able to source stuff cheaper too. Thanks for the info.
 
What do you mean by dual chiller? Two coils in the kettle? One in the kettle fed from one in an ice bath?

I just used as much as would make the chiller as high as the surface of the wort.
 
simchez said:
What length of tubing would be best to chill down a 50lt keggle if it was a dual chiller?
I crammed 6m - 2 x 3m of annealed tube from Bummings - into mine. In hindsight, could have squeezed double that in if I used a larger mandrel to coil the tube around. The more the better.
Would have made the chiller more efficient and far easier to whirlpool also. I've found whirl-pooling ( wooden spoon and cordless spoon method..) whilst chilling gets the best results.
 
You want some gap between the coils so it's more like a spring. If the coils are tight against each other it makes for metres of tiny little crevice to clean.
 
You mean a counterflow setup?
Probably pick up a decent and more efficient plate chiller for under $150. Just sayin.

counterflow-wort-chiller-web.jpeg
 
simchez said:
How do the plate chillers work?
Google it . Basically it has a series of plates stacked on top of one another water in one end and wort in the other . The liquids are separated by the plates one flows one way opposite to the other .
 
Made one 6mt coiled stainless didn't work so well.
Made a goat type out of 6mt of copper works great. Also coper has some sort of anti bacterial qualities.living things don't seem to gro on it. Copper nickel (more rigid than copper) is used for all the salt water piping on ships because of its natural anti fouling qualities, barnacles ect don't gro on it.
 
If I had my way again, I'd redesign my home built one (and probably will redo it still). It was made of copper coil from the green shed. However, the coils only go around near the outsde of the 60 litre kettle which means unless I regularly whirlpool/circulate the wort after the boil, the outer parts cool down but toward the centre the liquid can be up to 20C hotter in a full volume brew.

Next time it will be both a tighter inner coil (will need to use a tube/pipe bender) as well as an outer coil, obviously in one continuous length of copper pipe. I think you get a 30 metre coil from the green shed people for $100 IIRC.

Cheers
 
Straight coils are the worst. You really want a birdsnest of copper tube, sure you cant whirlpool with them but will drop the temp far quicker than any coil could possibly hope to do
 

Latest posts

Back
Top