Wheat beer Yeast help

[manticle]

I would actually disagree with this. I find my lager brewed with saaz are a lot smoother and mellower than the same ibu with magnum. I found the difference to be quite striking. My personal experience only.

Not specifically with magnum (which I haven't used) but in general I agree. Bitterness is not bitterness.

 

[jyo]

danestead, thanks for the translation.. Weizen and Weiss were confusing my a bit.

Thanks jyo, love the pic... I thought Willamette could be used as a substitute for those hops, I know its your opinion, (which I trust more than the generic hop lists), should I trust these lists?

As just a 60 minute addition, it will be fine, mate. Try the williamette, then give Tett a go next time. Beautiful hop in these beers.

 

[Droopy Brew]

Thanks guys, it looks like the general consensus is 60min regardless.. One more item ticked off my list.

Coodgee I will try the Bsaaz then.

I may do another experiment with the Summer.. I'll see how I go.

No mate dont use that, it is nothing like Saaz despite the name. Quite a fruity hop also known as Motueka. Great hop but not suited to a Weissen/Hefe. Stick with Summer or Willamete.

 

[Chookers]

Droopy Brew, I think that what Im going to do is even smaller batches, I have 2 10lt Jerry Cans, and since I believe the Wheat Yeasts need quite a large head space, and even though it will be twice the work for half the beer, this is my experiment..

So my proposal is to do 2 batches of 7Lt one with Summer, and one with Willamette.. This way I can test them side by side.

I have 2kg of JW Wheat Malt and 1kg of JW Pilsner.. I do not know how big a batch that would make in total? 20Lt is my guess..

 

[Reman]

2.4kg of grain gets me 10l at 1.050 OG, so 3kg will probably get you about 12-13l.

 

[Chookers]

oh wow, I was really off..

Doesn't matter I wasn't going to make 20L anyway, I was aiming for about 12.5L batch.. so I fluked it then

 

[Blind Dog]

My rough rule of thumb is 1kg of base malt in a standard 19L batch gives 10 gravity points or 1% ABV after fermentation. Its very rough and ready and varies a lot depending on mash temp, efficiency, yeast used, malt etc. So 3kg of base malt in 12.5L should give about 45 gravity points (SG 1.045) and a beer with about 4.5% ABV. As I said, its rough but a guide none the less.

Also, you might want to think about adding rice hulls to the mash as wheat malt is huskless and can easily result in stuck, gummy mashes if used in high concentrations - i find it a problem over 30% or so, but it depends on your set up.

 

[Chookers]

Blind Dog would you still need rice hulls if using BIAB?

 

[Blind Dog]

Probably not if you stir the grain well to break up the dough balls and don't recirculate; but i don't think i brewed a wheat beer back when I was doing BIAB

 

[Weizguy]

<snipped>

I also believe wit translates to white but I'd say that's dutch.

Not quite Dutch, but a Belgian variant called Flemish.

Anyone out there think Summer and Willamette would work in this beer?

Probably would if 'This Beer" is an American wheat. I have enjoyed some Willamette late hop flavoured beers that I have made.
As for Weizen, maybe bitter with B Saaz, as I have made great weizens with Saaz. Summer would likely suit the style too, as they do not focus on hop flavour so much.
Was going to try some Southern Cross for a weizen soonish (when I have opportunity to brew again).

 

[Chookers]

Thanks Blind Dog and Les,

I think I got enough info to start it off, just waiting on the delivery of my M20 yeast. and if I follow the experiment results on hommelhomebrew web site, that means I will need 69.07 billion cells. So I will have to make the starter with that in mind.. theres my new challenge.

off mangrove jacks site I got this info on the yeast

VIABLE YEAST CELLS: >5 x 109 CFU/gram

Im not a scientist, what the holy hell does it mean?? I know it must be talking about how many cells are in my packet of yeast.

 

[manticle]

If I haven't ****** up my calculations it should be more than 5 billion cells per gram.
CFU is colony forming units, an expression of measurement of bacterial or fungal cells.

So 13-14 g fresh, healthy dried yeast should be about right (assuming my maths is)

 

[Chookers]

wow thanks Manticle.. I think you gotta be a molecular biologist to decode these things.. or some type of genius.

 

[manticle]

While I will accept some amount of genius forms part of my essential self, there's very few mysteries that can't be solved with the right search engine.

 

[Blind Dog]

Not sure how useful the viability information is on their website as >5 billion CFUs per gram could mean just over 5 billion or way over. Each yeast strain has the same number and that seems odd if it's meant to be anything more than a minimum number. If it was just 5bn per gram, then pitching a single packet into 25L of 1.050 wort (as the website suggests) would be a massive under pitch

Brewers friend suggests 10 billion cells per gram is a decent guess for dried yeast in good condition, which would give you 100bn cells in a 10g packet. Mr Malty suggests double that. The reality is that it's likely to lie somewhere between 5bn cells per gram and a significantly bigger number.

Despite all that confusion, I can't recall having an issue pitching a single packet (rehydrated) into 20l batches of up to 1.050 gravity for any dry yeast I've used. YMMV

 

[Chookers]

I was trying to figure out how much yeast I would have to add to get 60% of what is considered normal.. as the guy on hommel homebrew did trials that suggested under pitching at this rate seemed to give a nice balance of fruit and cloves.. I know he was using a different yeast in his trials, but I was hoping it would carry over to the dry yeast.. I am most probably wrong about this.. I seem to be wrong about most things.

I was thinking to add 5g of dried yeast.. but whether to add this as a starter or sprinkle straight into the wort as the packet instructions suggest, I wouldn't know which is better. But I think a starter wouldn't hurt it.

 

[Chookers]

so I finally did my Hefeweizen style wheat beer (Im not confident enough to call it just 'Hefeweizen')..

I must have made some miscalculations somewhere along the line.. I was aiming to have 11L in the fermenter out of my 3kg of grain. But I only ended up with just under 9L.. very disappointed (on the plus side, there will be plenty of head space in the fermenter).. OG is 1050, and it is supposedly 14 IBUs.. (I can barely detect any bitterness in the wort).

I am going to add 1/3 pkt M20 Mangrove Jack yeast, when it gets to 18 degrees.

Really pissed I didn't get my 11Litres

 

[Chookers]

checked SG after a week and it was 1020. Im giving it another week.

I hope it drops a bit more. I am hoping this slow ferment is due to the cooler temps. 18degrees

 

[Reman]

The hefe I brewed 3 weeks ago dropped from 1.044 to 1.008 in about 3 days, so yours is taking its sweet time! If it slowly keeps dropping you're probably all sweet, but if it gets stuck maybe consider pitching more of your yeast.

 

[Chookers]

yeh, I was afraid it might get stuck.. but I did purposefully under pitch following the logic of Hommelhomebrew Hefeweizen.

I hope I didn't over under pitch :huh: