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sjcampbell
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Newbie Alert!!!!!!
For the "25 grams of Cascade Dry Hopped after about 5 days..."
Do you just throw these in the fermenter, sterilise them first (somehow) or boil/steep and put liquid in?
Cheers
Steve
manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
[quote name='Steve's Pub' post='758297' date='Mar 31 2011, 08:04 PM']Newbie Alert!!!!!!
For the "25 grams of Cascade Dry Hopped after about 5 days..."
Do you just throw these in the fermenter, sterilise them first (somehow) or boil/steep and put liquid in?
Cheers
Steve[/quote]
Option 1 or option 3. True dry hopping is obviously dry - hops have antibacterial qualities and are generally fine to chuck straight in. The third option is also known as french press or making a hop tea.
@Tim: the dex will help balance up the beer - all malt extract can sometimes be a bit cloying. All malt from grain is a different story.
For the "25 grams of Cascade Dry Hopped after about 5 days..."
Do you just throw these in the fermenter, sterilise them first (somehow) or boil/steep and put liquid in?
Cheers
Steve[/quote]
Option 1 or option 3. True dry hopping is obviously dry - hops have antibacterial qualities and are generally fine to chuck straight in. The third option is also known as french press or making a hop tea.
@Tim: the dex will help balance up the beer - all malt extract can sometimes be a bit cloying. All malt from grain is a different story.
bignath
"Grains don't grow up to be chips, son"
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[quote name='Steve's Pub' post='758297' date='Mar 31 2011, 07:04 PM']Newbie Alert!!!!!!
For the "25 grams of Cascade Dry Hopped after about 5 days..."
Do you just throw these in the fermenter, sterilise them first (somehow) or boil/steep and put liquid in?
Cheers
Steve[/quote]
Yep - throw them "dry" into the fermenter, or you could do the same into a secondary vessel if you're gonna cold condition a beer.
Hops are naturally antibacterial, and so by design, don't need to be sterilised.
EDIT: "missed it by this much....."
For the "25 grams of Cascade Dry Hopped after about 5 days..."
Do you just throw these in the fermenter, sterilise them first (somehow) or boil/steep and put liquid in?
Cheers
Steve[/quote]
Yep - throw them "dry" into the fermenter, or you could do the same into a secondary vessel if you're gonna cold condition a beer.
Hops are naturally antibacterial, and so by design, don't need to be sterilised.
EDIT: "missed it by this much....."
timryan
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Gday Guys just put down a brew
1.7kg Coopers Real Ale Kit (Used By 10/09/2012)
1kg Coopers Brewing Sugar
1kg Grape and Grain Light Malt Extract
US-05 Yeast
20grms Cascade Hop Pellets Boiled for 10min.
and the recipe was
1.7kg Kit Added
Brewing Sugars Added
Light Malt Extract Added
19L of Water Added
2L of Wort Boiled
20grms of Cascade Hops Added and boiled for 10 min
Mixed and Topped up Fermenter to 23L
Yeast reconstituted into cream by added Packet to 200ml Of Water for 30min
Pitched Yeast at 24.9
I dont know how this will go ive never reconstituted yeast before and ive never boiled hops... i know it has a very high OG about 1.053 just wondering what you guys think it will turn out like...
Cheers Tim
1.7kg Coopers Real Ale Kit (Used By 10/09/2012)
1kg Coopers Brewing Sugar
1kg Grape and Grain Light Malt Extract
US-05 Yeast
20grms Cascade Hop Pellets Boiled for 10min.
and the recipe was
1.7kg Kit Added
Brewing Sugars Added
Light Malt Extract Added
19L of Water Added
2L of Wort Boiled
20grms of Cascade Hops Added and boiled for 10 min
Mixed and Topped up Fermenter to 23L
Yeast reconstituted into cream by added Packet to 200ml Of Water for 30min
Pitched Yeast at 24.9
I dont know how this will go ive never reconstituted yeast before and ive never boiled hops... i know it has a very high OG about 1.053 just wondering what you guys think it will turn out like...
Cheers Tim
going down a hill
Beer Cod
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Should be good. There is a fair bit of sugar, so you have done the right thing by adding extra hops to balance it out. I have used us05 and it brings the beer to a nice clean taste, all's good from where I stand. Just keep it under 20c.
The only thing that annoys me about brewing is you have to wait so damn long to drink the stuff.
Did it taste good when you were putting it together?
The only thing that annoys me about brewing is you have to wait so damn long to drink the stuff.
Did it taste good when you were putting it together?
manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
Hi mate,
It will probably give you an indication if what you can do with your own hops and some extract.
Next time I would consider backing off on the brew sugar a bit. The malt will give you extra body while the sugar will thin or lessen the body. I'd look at 200-500g for a 23 litre brew and make up the rest of the fermentables with the malt. 1kg of malt is less fermentable than 1 kg of dex but 1kg DME + 250g of dex should be close enough to the usual kilo in terms of ABV.
Some sugar can be good in this kind of brew to stop it being too 'chewy'. It's all about finding the right balance.
In terms of rehydration - fermentis have very specific steps about how best to rehydrate. It's best to either follow the steps to the letter or just pitch the pack straight in. Steps are here - you will need a thermometer.
Every beer is a learning process and an improvement on the last at this point and it looks like you're getting the hang of things.
It will probably give you an indication if what you can do with your own hops and some extract.
Next time I would consider backing off on the brew sugar a bit. The malt will give you extra body while the sugar will thin or lessen the body. I'd look at 200-500g for a 23 litre brew and make up the rest of the fermentables with the malt. 1kg of malt is less fermentable than 1 kg of dex but 1kg DME + 250g of dex should be close enough to the usual kilo in terms of ABV.
Some sugar can be good in this kind of brew to stop it being too 'chewy'. It's all about finding the right balance.
In terms of rehydration - fermentis have very specific steps about how best to rehydrate. It's best to either follow the steps to the letter or just pitch the pack straight in. Steps are here - you will need a thermometer.
Every beer is a learning process and an improvement on the last at this point and it looks like you're getting the hang of things.
timryan
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Cheers Guys... im excited but as you said going down the worst part is waiting for it haha.. Nar i can be patient ill brew another one in the mean time haha.. just gotta keep justifying it to the fiancee haha.. nar its fun and all just wondering what hops go with a dark ale? and anyone know a good basicish recipe
cheers tim
cheers tim
manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
Dark English: Fuggles, EKG. Challenger if you like a bit of marmalade. Styrian Goldings
Dark American: Cascade, amarillo, centennial, numerous others
Dark German: Tettnanger, hallertau, hersbrucker, Northern Brewer
dark belgian: Hallertau, hersbrucker, tettnanger, styrian goldings, northern brewer. This list is by no means exhaustive - just a few suggestions.
Dark American: Cascade, amarillo, centennial, numerous others
Dark German: Tettnanger, hallertau, hersbrucker, Northern Brewer
dark belgian: Hallertau, hersbrucker, tettnanger, styrian goldings, northern brewer. This list is by no means exhaustive - just a few suggestions.
manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
Cascade and amarillo are a good combo. Centennial has a similar citrus/grapefruit character to cascade with higher AA too.
manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
Sorry mate.
AA is alpha acid content and directly relates to the bittering level a certain hop type will offer a brew. Higher AA = more bitterness with less hops.
There's more technical stuff about beta acids and cohumulune but all things in time.
AA won't affect alc content at all. What you will find is that bitter and sweet counteract each other, so often if you add extra sweetness to a brew, it might be good to balance with extra hops and vice versa. Finding the balance point is as much aout what you like in a beer as anything else and there are no rules - only principles and guidelines based on what other people have done before.
AA is alpha acid content and directly relates to the bittering level a certain hop type will offer a brew. Higher AA = more bitterness with less hops.
There's more technical stuff about beta acids and cohumulune but all things in time.
AA won't affect alc content at all. What you will find is that bitter and sweet counteract each other, so often if you add extra sweetness to a brew, it might be good to balance with extra hops and vice versa. Finding the balance point is as much aout what you like in a beer as anything else and there are no rules - only principles and guidelines based on what other people have done before.
