What Is My Efficiency

[floydmeddler]

Howdy folks,

Using lots of different calculators and getting different readings! Can anyone help please?

read 1.040 at 41c. Volume was 25L

Cheers

Floyd

 

[Pumpy]

1.047

 

[samhighley]

1.047

Pumpy, you're deranged. It's clearly 1.049.

 

[Pumpy]

Sammy,


I thought I was close

my setting in Beersmith for the Hydrometer calibration temperature was set at 15 C

If I change it to 20C which I assume his Hydrometer is calibrated the corrected SG is 1.046

Am I doing something wrong?

Pumpy :unsure:

 

[samhighley]

I was just goofing around.

 

[matti]

Promash = 1.047
hydro calculated @15.56

matti

 

[samhighley]

I was just goofing around.

Because when someone asks for their efficiency and supplies a few random numbers, I figure any answer is just goofing around

 

[Pumpy]

 

[floydmeddler]

So... I'm thinking around 80%?

 

[Adamt]

You efficiency with this post will be close to 0%.

We need to know your batch volume and malt bill to determine the efficiency of your brewday.

 

[Frank]

I think if you can open your tin, mix in your booster and pitch the yeast in about half an hour.... That's pretty efficient.
Is that what we're talking about?? B)

 

[floydmeddler]

I took the reading from 25 litres. The grain volume was 4.85 KG. Hydro read 1.040 at 41c.

Cheers

 

[Adamt]

Your overall efficiency (from start to fermenter) is a bit under 75%, which is pretty good.

Don't worry about comparing your efficiency to other brewers', as it is highly dependent on equipment, sparging technique, and how they calculate efficiency.

 

[samhighley]

Don't worry about comparing your efficiency to other brewers', as it is highly dependent on equipment, sparging technique, and how they calculate efficiency.

Indeed. My efficiency from mash to boiler is about 80%, but my brewhouse efficiency is 65%.

 

[pint of lager]

Different bags of malt from different suppliers have varying specifications. This specification includes how many sg points you would obtain from a kilo of malt under ideal conditions.

You need to know the specs on each malt you have used.

You need the exact amount of each malt you have used.

You need to specify exactly how much wort you ended up in the fermenter.

You need the sg of this wort in the fermenter at the temperature rated on your hydrometer (usually 15 or 20 deg C ). Temperature compensation charts can be inaccurate.

New AG brewers get very tied up in efficiency. I suggest you concentrate on the actual brewing procedure instead. Higher efficiencies will come as your methods improve. After about ag brew number 10, then start looking at efficiencies and tweaking to improve this.

It is far more important for you to be able to repeat your brew. Aim for something like 5 kg of malt in the brew to give 23 litres of wort at 1.040 in the fermenter. If you achieve an sg of 1.045, then you now have a bench mark of how much malt to use next time.

In the last day, MHB has put up a thread about malt specs. It includes a very easy to understand efficiency calculation.

 

[matti]

To get 25 L from less then 5kgs grains is good work done.
P of L is spot on that you need to punch in exact number of the malt specification.

Most brew program have default set which you can change but most people don't bother.

~75% is what I get with promash