Very little Co 2 while fermenting

[trustyrusty]

Hi in the process of doing Morgan’s blue mountain at 20 degree, kit yeast and dry malt/ dextrose. Seems to be no bubbles coming out in airlock but is a small layer of bubbles on top of beer. I cannot remember if it was low producer last time but seems very low? Can some brews just not make a lot of gas. I have set to 20.00 degree , it is around 19.00 , 2 higher than outside fridge temp, so it must be working. Even when past 20 without heater (have not got heat belt on ), so there must be action, just little Co2? As I write gone up to 20.1, ambient is 17.00, I have checked airlock sealed etc etc Thanks

 

[MHB]

When yeast "eats" 1sugar molecule it makes 2 molecules of alcohol and 2 of CO2. This is non negotiable and cant be changed!
Its probably just fermenting slowly, could be down to the yeast not being in tip top condition and there really isn't enough of it.
The other thing is that an airlock isn't a brew indicator, its just a pressure relief valve, that lets the CO2 escape, if the CO2 is getting out somewhere else, the airlock wont bubble at all.
If you want to know how your ferment is progressing, you need to take an hydrometer reading. Just in case - that doesn't mean taking the top off and throwing it in. You should run a little out of the tap (25mL is enough - what's in the body of the tap might not be the same as the rest of the brew), fill your hydrometer tube, add the hydrometer (I let it overflow a little - makes reading easier). Let it sit for 15 minutes or so for the temperatures to all balance out (equilibrate). You should have taken a reading at the start (did you?).
Mark

The Gay-Lussac equation.

 

[brewgasm]

It's probably fine, gasses are probably finding another way out. What kind of fermentor are you using?

 

[trustyrusty]

I have checked for leaks, have stainless steel with lid top , 4 clips. I cannot see or hear getting out and not much foam on top. Could be kit yeast? You never know how they are transported I guess, do you think I should throw in another yeast. But temp is up so it must be working ok. Thanks

 

[trustyrusty]

This is bizarre... gravity is 1023 after 2 days, temperature is 2 degree above ambient, does not taste bad, just no bubbles.. everything seems fine, never had a brew make no bubbles.. cheers

 

[brewgasm]

This is bizarre... gravity is 1023 after 2 days, temperature is 2 degree above ambient, does not taste bad, just no bubbles.. everything seems fine, never had a brew make no bubbles.. cheers

There's nothing wrong then, I have an ss brewtec brew bucket. After this batch is finished I would check the silicone seal is ok as well as the bung and air lock. I brewed that kit a few years back. I remember adding a fair bit of Amarillo. Was a good drop

 

[trustyrusty]

I have just change airlock to check, as I unclip the locks, the level of water in airlock changes so it seems sealed... would not do that if there was a leak..

 

[brewgasm]

I have just change airlock to check, as I unclip the locks, the level of water in airlock changes so it seems sealed... would not do that if there was a leak..

Probably the yeast, if you have access to a LHBS and can spare an extra $5 on a packet of yeast that has been stored appropriately its a worthwhile investment that will take your beer to the next level. You could chose a yeast with the properties that suit your needs. I find that get wild variations in airlock activity, I don't place much focus on it other than record whether it is vigorous or just chugging along but every batch is a different beer, different style, different yeast, different temps ect. I'm a a set and forget brewer (except temperature schedules), I only take a starting gravity and a final gravity so it's very rare for me to take more than two samples.

 

[trustyrusty]

I have a few coopers kit yeasts that have in the fridge, ?

 

[rude]

I usually invest in 2 pkts of selected yeast for my 1050 23 L brews
Rehydrate and set temp to around 18 c
So $10 but I recon its worth it as I all grain which is cheap to produce wort compared to a kit

 

[hoppy2B]

I have a few coopers kit yeasts that have in the fridge, ?

I used the Coopers kit yeast once and thought it was pretty good.

 

[peterlonz]

A not uncommon situation.
I'd suggest using one, maybe both of your Coopers yeasts & get the fermenting temp up to around 22 to 24 C which is what Coopers recommend as I recall.
Coopers yeasts are almost bullet proof, they aways start & work quite swiftly but are designed for Australian temp conditions & below 20C the yeast may be sluggish.
The response you will always get in these forums is check with a hydrometer.
Well that helped me only once or twice in 50 years of brewing. Hydrometers are just damn difficult to read with any precision (I have 3 & all are equally useless).
Try tasting your wort, that will give you a reasonable idea of how fermentation is progressing.
Normally the airlock is a very good indicator also, but if conditions change the rate of bubble/CO2 formation will vary. Remember that after fermentation is complete you should leave the brew to settle for at least one week.

 

[Rocker1986]

Coopers yeasts are fine at 18C. They only recommend the mid 20s so newbies can make sure the thing ferments out and not end up with bottle grenades. I and many others have successfully used them at the 18-20 temp range, under about 17-18 the ale yeast does struggle a bit. The "hybrid" kit yeast that contains ale and lager yeast is best at 18C.

Hydrometers aren't difficult to read at all. It's pretty obvious if the SG is dropping, even with a ****** one. You can get reasonable quality ones that are easily read and work well for not too expensive prices. I have one I got on eBay for about $20 and it's been fantastic.

Airlocks are ******* useless at indicating anything other than gas movement, when they decide to even work at all. One little leaky seal somewhere in the set up and bam, they stop bubbling and mass panic ensues because of ****** advice like that. Just about everyone who's been brewing for a while knows that and advises against using it as a fermentation indicator for that very reason.

 

[wynnum1]

. The "hybrid" kit yeast that contains ale and lager yeast if you go with a low temperature ale yeast is not going to be happy and if reuse probably more lager then ale .

 

[Rocker1986]

. The "hybrid" kit yeast that contains ale and lager yeast if you go with a low temperature ale yeast is not going to be happy and if reuse probably more lager then ale .

Hence why I said it's best at 18C. It normally comes with ale type kits anyway. Not sure of the reasoning behind the combined yeast but if it's kept at 18C it does produce a pretty nice brew.