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Using Kit Yeast As A Yeast Nutrient

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fletcher

bibo ergo sum
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Hey guys,
Can't find much information on this but I've heard it before (can't recall where or I'd go look again). Since I'm about to use s23 for a lager, the coopers pack yeast (1/2 ale and 1/2 lager I believe) will just be sitting there.
I remember reading it can be put in x amount of water and then boiled and killed, and then added to the ferment vessel?
Any suggestions would be great! Thanks.
Fletcher
 

JDW81

I make wort, the yeast make it beer.
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Hey guys,
Can't find much information on this but I've heard it before (can't recall where or I'd go look again). Since I'm about to use s23 for a lager, the coopers pack yeast (1/2 ale and 1/2 lager I believe) will just be sitting there.
I remember reading it can be put in x amount of water and then boiled and killed, and then added to the ferment vessel?
Any suggestions would be great! Thanks.
Fletcher
I did this for ages when I had a stack of kit yeast in the fridge which I wasn't using. I just put it in the boil with my spec grains and hops to kill it off, chilled and added to fermenter.

Easy as.

JD
 

Yob

Hop to it
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usually put in any hot side additions you are adding in the last 10 mins, as its a lager I assume you wont be adding any/many hops?

I used to do it with flavour/aroma hop additions

extract or kit?
 

NewtownClown

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Yup and it works.
Referred to as yeast hulls, the yeast is added to the boil.
I have generally added 1/2 7 gram packet per 20-23 litres at 15 min
Not as good as other nutrients (DAP) but the dead cells act as agglomeration sites and contain some residual lipids that are useful to yeast
 

fletcher

bibo ergo sum
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Cheers guys, it's not a grain or AG but an extract kit brew - just the goo and malt dex and maltodex. Next beer is an AG. I need to add boiling water initially so should I just add it into there for 1o-15 mins? Or will it need longer to kill the buggers?
 

sponge

Dungeon O' Sponge Brewery
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I had some dried yeast packs left over from a year hiatus a few years ago, and just threw one into the boil with the finings. Probably a little OOT using a whole pack per brew (23L), but I just used them all up that way and went back to using yeast nutrients from then on.
 

fletcher

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usually put in any hot side additions you are adding in the last 10 mins, as its a lager I assume you wont be adding any/many hops?

I used to do it with flavour/aroma hop additions

extract or kit?
Thanks Yob (and everyone) for answering so quickly. I'll boil the initial water and add a half pack of it then - thanks also NewtownClown.
 

fletcher

bibo ergo sum
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Annoying question 2...if anyone could help that'd be great.

S my awesome can opener decided to break, which the spiraled into a series of comedic errors (yay), and the temperature of the wort ended up at about 32C. I'm trying to cool it now in the FV so I can pitch at about 20C. Is the wort 'vulnerable' now? Or is that just so you don't leave it forever to get contaminated? It's sealed and in the FV and in the fridge cooling at the moment. Am I fine just to pitch yeast when it gets to the right temp? Or have I royally buggered it? :s
 

manticle

Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
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Some vulnerability but if it's covered with a sanitary cover, it's a risk I'd prefer to take than pitching too hot.
 

wyane

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I had some dried yeast packs left over from a year hiatus a few years ago, and just threw one into the boil with the finings. Probably a little OOT using a whole pack per brew (23L), but I just used them all up that way and went back to using yeast nutrients from then on.
Did this for the first time last week (after someone here mentioned). Cheers for the factoids and beer wisdom \o/
 

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