Two quick No Chill questions.

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aamcle

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I'm trying to simplify my brewday, to get rid of pumps, PID's and CFC's; no chill is simple!

If I have followed the latest discussion correctly any hop additions later than 15 mins can go straight into the cube.

Is this correct?

If I ferment in the cube can just leave the hops in it?


Ok just one more.

Is there any advantage in cubing then cooling it to <80ºC as quickly as I can? I could put the cube in a trug of water.




Thanks All. aamcle
 
Yes

Yes

No

You'll find the sweet spot for yourself quite quickly, I only do a base bittering, then cube everything.
 
Good my KISS campaign is looking hopeful.


Thanks. aamcle
 
Calculating cube additions as 20 minute hop additions seems to work well, so essentially yes to your first question.

Second question, yes, you'll just have lots of trub. I fermented two batches of the same ale and on one accidentally tipped all the hops in to the fermenter. The next one I didn't. The difference was very minor. I doubt it's good practice, but it seems to work fine.

You don't need to cool to 80C but you could. The sanitisation that happens in the cube is about time at temperature, not that it has to be at 100C when it goes in. I've chilled to 80C for hop additions pre-cube, and then cubed with hop additions and had no issues. The time the wort takes to drop to 55C from 75C is sufficient for the sanitisation that needs to happen, as long as your cube was clean to start with.

Edit: Weird, the page didn't show Yob's answers when I looked at it. Anyway, as we were.
 
Sorry to be so slow to reply, what software are you talking about?

Atb. Aamcle
 
Brewmate has a no chill box you can tick for IBU correction
 
01_nochill_hopadjust.jpg
 
Yob said:
Yes

Yes

No

You'll find the sweet spot for yourself quite quickly, I only do a base bittering, then cube everything.
You have my attention Yob.

I get the base bittering, but how then do you do all other additions in the cube? I no chill whenever I can, and put bittering in the kettle with a time correction and then flavour additions at flameout (let it settle out during whirlpool). If you are sealing up the cube, how do you do any other additions.......dry hop in the FV?

The no-chill technique is wonderful from my perspective. If I could change it, though, it would be around flexibility of hop additions. Looking to learn here mate.

Cheers, Anthony
 
AJS2154 said:
You have my attention Yob.

I get the base bittering, but how then do you do all other additions in the cube? I no chill whenever I can, and put bittering in the kettle with a time correction and then flavour additions at flameout (let it settle out during whirlpool). If you are sealing up the cube, how do you do any other additions.......dry hop in the FV?

The no-chill technique is wonderful from my perspective. If I could change it, though, it would be around flexibility of hop additions. Looking to learn here mate.

Cheers, Anthony
As well as adding hops at flameout (or before), you can do a hop stand, a whirlpool addition and cube additions. Take note of temperature when adding hops.

I tend to add hops at whirlpool and in the cube. Whirlpool (for me) will be around 95°C - usually 10 - 20 min after flameout. For PA's, IPA's & their ilk, I'll wait til the kettle temp has dropped to 80 - 85°C before transferring into the cube to minimise isomerisation while remaining hot enough to prevent uptake of bugs.

I've gone up to about 200g in the cube, but it's getting pretty crowded by that point :D

Obviously, for non-cube hopped beers I just transfer as soon as whirlpool has done it's thing.
 
Hey mofox,

Thanks for the response mate.

Maybe I left out some essential information........I no-chill into a 30 litre keg. I then ferment in that keg. So bloody easy I don't know why everybody doesn't do it. I have avoided putting hops in the keg because I was wanting to avoid fermenting with the hops hanging around during fermentation. Do you think this would change the method you are using?

Maybe I just need to have a swing and see what happens.

Anthony
 
Have a crack - at worst you get beer :)

I (usually) don't bother filtering the cube hops out when dumping into the fermenter. Only have when I've used whole hop cones (which also corresponded to the more heavily pellet hopped ones too).

I find the cube hops settle out and get covered by a trub & yeast layer pretty quick... I haven't heard of free ballin' hops causing issue, but always happy to be edumacated different.
 
Good point mate, the trub will probably burry them. I will have a go and report back......the ease of the method I use makes me want to continue.
 
What does FWH 30m IBU mean in the no-chill column? It can't be first wort hopping, it doesn't make sense.

I've been meaning to do a temp reduction hopping experiment where I wait until the wort is at x temp (or waiting x time, assuming a straight line cooling rate, which isn't that accurate) and whack more hops in as a 5 minute addition.
 
The only issue I generally have with shit loads of hops in the fermenter is getting hop debris in the kegs which have habbit of blocking the out posts
 
mxd said:
The only issue I generally have with shit loads of hops in the fermenter is getting hop debris in the kegs which have habbit of blocking the out posts
Yep, that is one of the worries I have.......thought a good long cold crash might stop that issue when I transfer into a keg. Maybe a simple filter at transfer time?
 
AJS2154 said:
Yep, that is one of the worries I have.......thought a good long cold crash might stop that issue when I transfer into a keg. Maybe a simple filter at transfer time?
for you, if your no chilling in a keg you could put your hops in a hop sock. (I could as well but I'm so lazy it's not funny)
 
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