Too Much Water

[wiggins]

G'day
I,ve just started brewing a coopers canadian blonde with brew enhancer 2.Rehydrated the yeast and boiled the wort to sterilise.The only problem is ,when i took the sg at the start it read 1030,which is a bit low for my liking.I accidently put 24 litres of water in the fermenter and am wondering what effects this will have on my brew.

 

[AndrewQLD]

lower alcohol, around 3% depending on your finishing gravity, and a slightly milder flavour. probably a good session beer.

cheers
Andrew

 

[WillM]

wiggins

I've had low OG readings sometimes because it is more concentrated on the bottom of the fermenter than the top, so it might be closer to 35 or 40. (where did you take the reading?)

I'm sure it will be a good easy drinking beer either way.

Will

 

[Ross]

Wiggins,

you can always add some lme. even now, to give it a bit of a boost....

 

[wiggins]

Thanks Ross,
i will get a 500 gram bag of lme and mix it then pitch it and see what happens.If i had of wanted a light bodied beer,i would have just omitted the BE 2 and brewed it from the kit. :beer:

 

[wiggins]

What i'm thinking of doing is waiting for the brew to slow down fermenting theen add the new wort mixture,stir it in and then add a new ale yeast that i've got hanging around.How will this work ya reckon? <_<

 

[Ross]

What i'm thinking of doing is waiting for the brew to slow down fermenting theen add the new wort mixture,stir it in and then add a new ale yeast that i've got hanging around.How will this work ya reckon? <_<

[post="104576"][/post]​

No, just pitch it in as soon as possible - no extra yeast needed at all...

 

[wiggins]

Ok,if you reckon it'll work i'll try it and see what happens. :beerbang:

 

[Darren]

Wiggins,
Make sure you boil that DME before you add it to the brew

cheers
Darren

 

[poppa joe]

I borrowed a friends double fermenter 2 cans, 1 kilo of dextrose, 500gm
dme, 250 golden syrup Too much water got 150 stubbies instead of 120
SADLY there is none left.........Turned out good (Only a lite drinker)
cheers
PJ

 

[wiggins]

I added the 500 grams of lme to my brew this morning and nearly had a major catastrophe on my hands.The damn thing frothed up all the way to the top,so i put the lid back on for another 5 minutes to let it subside.It was my own silly fault,i should have realisrd the potential for this to happen because there would have been a shitload of co2 in there in the middle of the fermentation.I was suprised it didn't stop bubbling out of the airlock after doing this to the brew.

 

[Darren]

I added the 500 grams of lme to my brew this morning and nearly had a major catastrophe on my hands.The damn thing frothed up all the way to the top,so i put the lid back on for another 5 minutes to let it subside.It was my own silly fault,i should have realisrd the potential for this to happen because there would have been a shitload of co2 in there in the middle of the fermentation.I was suprised it didn't stop bubbling out of the airlock after doing this to the brew.

[post="104687"][/post]​

Wiggins,
Did you boil the DME first?

 

[pint of lager]

Have a read of the acronym thread.

LME = liquid malt extract (newer brewers often confuse this with light malt extract)
DME = dried malt extract

Extracts come in different types, light, amber, dark, wheat to name a few.

Adding a powder (DME, dextrose, maltodextrin) to your brew makes for violent eruptions.
As your beer is fermenting, it produces CO2 gas, most of this comes out the airlock, but alot stays in solution in the wort. Adding a powder provides nucleation sites for the dissolved CO2 to come out of solution.

This is why, when you take sg samples, there is frothing and the hydrometer starts rising up in the test tube.
This is why, when bottling, you place the sugar in the bottle first, rather than adding the sugar after the beer is in the bottle.
This is why, even after the beer has finished fermenting, the airlock very slowly gloomps as the dissolved CO2 comes out of solution.
This is why, when you pour a carbonated drink into a dusty glass, it froths.
Finally, when dissolving DME, do not add it to boiling water, the same reaction will occur and boil over onto the stove in no time. Dissolve it in tap water, then boil the resulting solution.

 

[wiggins]

I didn't realise i had to,so no i didn't.Ialways figure that it is sterile in the bag,so i didn't bother.

 

[Ross]

I didn't realise i had to,so no i didn't.Ialways figure that it is sterile in the bag,so i didn't bother.

[post="104734"][/post]​

Wiggins,

Always best to sterilise, but you'd be unlucky if you have a problem...

 

[Flagg]

I have also been unhappy about the malt level in my extract brew and tried adding extra malt. Scenes of volcanic erruptions! Prommised never to do this again. Is there a way of doing it safely? If youre interested in the tale do a search on "Beer antics" and read my post.
Flagg.

 

[wiggins]

The only thing that saved my brew from hitting the floor was putting the lid back on pronto,the only bubbles that came out lasted about 5 minutes then subsided.Iput the other three quarters of the malt mix in extremely slowly,which stopped it gushing out of the fermenter. :chug:

 

[Ross]

I have also been unhappy about the malt level in my extract brew and tried adding extra malt. Scenes of volcanic erruptions! Prommised never to do this again. Is there a way of doing it safely? If youre interested in the tale do a search on "Beer antics" and read my post.
Flagg.

[post="104884"][/post]​

Add before carbonation starts....

 

[Darren]

I didn't realise i had to,so no i didn't.Ialways figure that it is sterile in the bag,so i didn't bother.

[post="104734"][/post]​

Wigins,
You should boil all your dried extract. Most HB shops buy in bulk and re-package in the open air. It is particularly important when you use it to make a yeast "starter".

cheers
Darren