Too much head...... in my beer guys, come on!

[yumpet]

Hey guys im new to this and ive just kegged my first beer and it tastes great however i cant pour one without getting 3/4 of a glass of head, what am i doing wrong??? Delivery pressue is about 35 KPA

 

[manticle]

Line length and diameter, serving temperature, carbing method and level?

 

[glenwal]

How long are your beer lines? What temp is the beer at? What taps are you using? How did you carb the keg?

Going to need a bit more info.

Edit: beaten by manticle

 

[yumpet]

OK ill have to get the temp but i know its pretty cold, was carbonated at about 30 PSI for about 33 hours, beer line is about 1m i'd say

 

[yumpet]

beer is coming out at about 4 degrees and i should also add i had JUST finished carbonating like 10 min before i poured a beer

 

[glenwal]

Lines definitely sound to short.

Have a read of aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/14988-ahb-wiki-balancing-a-draught-system

It has a link to a spreadsheet for calcing the line length, and a bunch of other useful info too.

If also recommend carbing at serving pressure for a week or so for the first keg, helps to remove the variable of keg carbonation from the potential problems.

 

[Pogierob]

When you mention that you just finished carbing, I'm assuming you rocked the keg.

I would look at line balancing like others mentioned, I would also suggest you let us know what your force carbing method is, as force carbing like that can be hit and miss, it's quite possible you have over carbed the beer, which would generate the head issue you are having.

 

[Dan Pratt]

33hrs at 30psi is about right from my experience. 1m of line is ok, maybe reduce the serving pressure to 20kpa or less.

 

[user 36151]

If you have over carbed it just keep releasing pressure to just about zero each time u pour a beer its slow to pour but prevents wastage and u get a decent beer. pint glasses are good for pouring over carbed beers a lot better then schooners.

 

[Benn]

As a side note: Warm taps seem to cause a lot of foam, if my taps warm up too much between pours I get bulk foam. It's pissing me off. I'm thinking of getting some of those Freezy gel pack things for injuries and draping them over the tap(s) for the occasions when I'm not going at it flat out but just having the odd beer.

 

[Danscraftbeer]

Good points there. Also as I know its 2m minimum length for beer line. If your over carbed then release all the pressure and leave it for a day. Just connect a little to gas and disconnect again just to serve at low speed/pressure . If you were to serve 3 beers in a row they getter better each glass as the tap is cold as mentioned. You'll get used to it and the fine tuning for each keg etc. :chug:

 

[yumpet]

thanks guys i think it was definitely over carbonated, i released the pressure and rocked the keg and released like that a few times and im leaving it disconnected over night and ill try it again tomorrow arvo and see how we went

 

[Kev R]

I tried all of the above, gave up and bought a Perlicks flow control tap.

 

[hooper80]

I carb at 40psi for 24 hours, 4.5 mt of 4mm beer line also.

 

[Coldspace]

Regarding warm taps,

I just bought a font snake from digital home brew. Bloody awesome for my font. Ice cold all the way to the top, and also helps circulated the air in my keezer.

Well worth it guys for summer. One of the best things I've bought...... Well next to my kegs. Grainfather etc etc ha ha

 

[Wall]

Regarding warm taps I've got two perlick flow controls through the fridge door which pour beautifully as long as they're being used.
Even with the flow backed off they pour foam on the first beer until chilled (half glass usually)

Thinking of carving the insulation out around the shank to expose it and try to get the tap cold, anyone had this issue before / tried this solution can offer up some advice?

 

[Fylp]

Regarding warm taps I've got two perlick flow controls through the fridge door which pour beautifully as long as they're being used.
Even with the flow backed off they pour foam on the first beer until chilled (half glass usually)

Thinking of carving the insulation out around the shank to expose it and try to get the tap cold, anyone had this issue before / tried this solution can offer up some advice?

You can always mount them inside the fridge. The holes left in the fridge door could be filled and covered with a strategic decal. I did that to account for the varying states of my garage- saw dust etc.

 

[pist]

This is why i use a pluto gun. Stays in fridge so is always cold. Kegs usually last me a while as my job limits ny consumption to days off which are few and far between

 

[Wall]

How did you go about mounting in fridge?
Thinking maybe a plate facing forward to the door mounted to the roof of fridge could work.