The Supermarket Challenge

[Henno]

I still dabble with kits for speed and to get my third or fourth keg full.

I once made the coopers sparkling ale and on the instructions as well as their site it calls for the kit +1.5kg Thomas Coopers Light Malt Extract, 500g Coopers Light Dry Malt and 300g Coopers Dextrose. It turned out pretty dam good and not very 'kitty' at all.

Can anybody tell me how much malt dry or liquid to replace the 300g of dex with, if anything.

I also want to try reusing CPA yeast from a stubby or two for this one. I do ferment in one of several temp control fridges so would 18 degrees do the CPA sludge?

Sory to hijack

 

[tgilbert]

TonyG, Interested on how your CC turns out , I tried one about a month ago with the same ingreds; and was not very good had a strong honey flavour , but far as the supermarket kits go I,ve had some mixed result (coopers lager,apa,tooheys p.LAGER, baverian lager all have not BEEN bad)

Hi Beno,

Well here's the first report on my supermarket brews. The Cascade Golden Harvest, which was probably pitched too warm and fermented at room temps (26-27 during the day) for just 8 days, then conditioned for a week in the keg at 1 degree, has now been in the serving keg for two weeks or so. This brew was made with the yeast under the lid and a Coopers Brew Enhancer No 2. The first pour was horrible and I was tempted to toss it out, but I'm glad I didnt. It is now tasting really good and developing a nice strong head (although it does seem to flatten fairly quickly). It is a stronger brew (alcohol content) than I expected, but that might be because I only made it up to 20 litres. Definitely a beer my father would have approved of. And crystal clear out of the keg, by the way, with no filtering.

FYI, I noticed that this particular kit is also sold in the local HBS, for about 50% more than I paid at Coles. So I guess it's one of the better supermarket kits.

The second supermarket kit, the Cooper's Cerveza, also made with the yeast under the lid and Coopers Brew Enhancer No 2, is now in the conditioning keg. It fermented for 10 days at 20 degrees, but I suspect it should have stayed in longer. I got impatient. The Cerveza also came out of the fermenter crystal clear. I will condition it for two weeks before doing anything more with it.

Now, here's an interesting question for the purists. A Cerveza is, to my mind, supposed to be drunk from the bottle with a twist of lemon in the neck. So is this a beer I really should be bottling, rather than kegging? I am thinking probably so. If yes, my plan is to drop 500g of white sugar into 500 ml of hot water, mix well to dissolve, then pour the brew and the sugar mix into the carbuoy, before bottling to PETs (I have no glass). Does this sound about right?

My next brew is going to be a Tooheys Real Ale. But I am going to use two kits for this mix, with standard yeast (mixed in warm water for 30 minutes before pitching) and Brew Enhancer No 2 again (because it produces good results). Any suggestions about the fermenting temperature and time for this one? I am thinking 24 degrees for about 10 days because ale yeasts usually work best at around room temp. Is this right?

Keep up the comments and suggestions by the way. Very helpful.

Tony

 

[RobboMC]

I also gave myself the 'supermarket challenge' to see how good a beer I could make with ingredients ONLY from the supermarket. My best result was with Coopers Pale Ale. Add a KG of Brew Enhancer 2 AND a 500g pack of Light Dry Malt and brew at 19 deg C. Used the kit yeast, I guess that's a given in this challenge. Consider filling to only 19 litres.

The result after 3 months in the bottle was a fairly decent beer.

Possibly could get a similar good result with the new European lager kit. The old Bavarian lager was Ok but improved with some hops from the HBS.

Bottom line is there's a limit to where you can get to without a HBS.

 

[tgilbert]

Tony, you'll be making bottle bombs with that amount of sugar to a standard batch size.

Have a look at this link for some info on bulk priming.

Wally

Hi Wally,

Bottle bombs? That's my middle name! Actually, early on in my brewing experience, I made a batch of 12 degree Saaz Pilsener. I bottled it straight into the fridge with two carbonation drops per bottle. About 5 weeks later, I cracked the first bottle and it was almost flat, so I opened up all the rest (PET bottles) and added two more carbonation drops each, thinking that something had gone wrong with the first lot. Didn't know at the time that secondary carb takes a lot longer at low temps. That brew packed a fizz like Coke. Lucky I used PET bottles or it would have been grandma's ginger beer all over again I suspect.

But thanks for the tip about bulk priming. Very helpful article. Still not sure what they mean about oxidisation from backsplash while racking. I like a fairly bubbly beer, so I guess I'll go the high rate carbonation, even though this kit probably only warrants medium carbonation.

Cheers, Tony

 

[jojai]

When you see waves break on the beach they lap over themselves, splash and foam up, the foam is from the water aerating. The same thing happens when you splash your home brew and I think embedding oxygen into beers can increase the risk of infection?

As for you temperature question, being a n00b myself I was just recently informed that ales are best fermented at 16-19C.

 

[Sammus]

Now, here's an interesting question for the purists. A Cerveza is, to my mind, supposed to be drunk from the bottle with a twist of lemon in the neck. So is this a beer I really should be bottling, rather than kegging? I am thinking probably so.

Were you under that impression because Corona says cerveza on the label? Nearly every beer does if you look at the foreign language bit at the back. I'm no purist, but I'm a bees dick short of 100% sure that cerveza is just spanish for 'beer'.

And for what its worth the only beer that's supposed to be drunk with a twist of lemon is one that tastes so much like actual piss by itself that you need to disguise the taste by adding flavours post ferment <_<

 

[schooey]

...the only beer that's supposed to be drunk with a twist of lemon is one that tastes so much like actual piss by itself that you need to disguise the taste by adding flavours post ferment..

:lol: I reckon I might quote that it in my sig if I ever make one

 

[Sammus]

:lol: I reckon I might quote that it in my sig if I ever make one

just a little rant stemming from one of my many pet hates

 

[tgilbert]

When you see waves break on the beach they lap over themselves, splash and foam up, the foam is from the water aerating. The same thing happens when you splash your home brew and I think embedding oxygen into beers can increase the risk of infection?

As for you temperature question, being a n00b myself I was just recently informed that ales are best fermented at 16-19C.

I have read that too, but I'd have thought that implies using something other than the yeast under the lid.

Tony

 

[tgilbert]

The next exciting instalment in the Supermarket Challenge started tonight. I changed my mind (woman's prerogative, eh) and bought a Cooper's European Lager (I liked the green can) which is mixed up in the fermenter with 500g of Cooper's light malt and 250g of dextrose, cooling down before I add the yeast.

My plan is to let the mix cool to about 19 degrees, then pitch the (lager) yeast in some warm water and let it cool to the same temp in the brew fridge overnight. Then I'll drain and introduce the yeast to the mix and cool both to about 16 degrees once I get some indication of fermentation starting (maybe next day).

Hope to ferment this brew at 16 degrees for 21 days. Then cold condition it for another 21 days before I gas it up and see how it tastes.

Anyone care to speculate on what SG I might end up with for this brew?

Tony

 

[dc59]

Hey mate your FG reading will depend on volume it was made up to. Expect it to be just under 10 but here's the link to a calc. you can use.

Hope it goes well.

 

[OzBeer_MD]

I'm no purist, but I'm a bees dick short of 100% sure that cerveza is just spanish for 'beer'.

I think you're right, was talking to someone about that just today.

And for what its worth the only beer that's supposed to be drunk with a twist of lemon is one that tastes so much like actual piss by itself that you need to disguise the taste by adding flavours post ferment <_<

RoFL Thats GOLD! :beer:

Last time I drank Corona I got a bad headache.

MD

 

[Rossco]

The next exciting instalment in the Supermarket Challenge started tonight. I changed my mind (woman's prerogative, eh) and bought a Cooper's European Lager (I liked the green can) which is mixed up in the fermenter with 500g of Cooper's light malt and 250g of dextrose, cooling down before I add the yeast.

Hi Tony,

I will probably get flamed for this but IMO, supermarket brewing is a great/cheap way to get started and learn the very basics of brewing.

Its how i started and now im more excited about brewing than ever before. My next brew is a Partial Hoegaarden from grumpy's then i will be trying an AG.

Anyhoo, I have brewed a lot of the coopers range:

2*Pale Ale
Pilsner
Sparkling
Bavarian
Cerveza
Euro Larger

All turned out pretty good. The Cerveza taste's VERY close to an actual corona (infact i have bottled it in corona bottles and the majority of people couldnt tell the difference). Im going to do another pale with the coopers bottle yeast which should be tops!

I have tried one of my euro largers (12 weeks in the bottle and i was a little impatient) and first impressions were that its pretty much a bavarian with a different (real larger?) yeast. Pretty good as well.

My favourite by far was the sparkling. Dark, malty and beautiful (the last bottles were a year old)

You can get good results from supermarket brewing, but after trying a partial & AG they are at another level all together.

 

[tgilbert]

Rossco, can I ask you about your tastes in commercial beers? Given that you prefer more expensive mixes, I wonder if you would choose a commercial beer over a home brew if offered the choice?

For me, I am getting to a point where I don't consider commercial beers worth the money any more. In fact I'd choose my home brew over most commercial beers any day (when I get them right). I think that sometimes influences what you brew.

I've tried various liquid mixes with HBS yeasts and additives, which pushes the brew cost up to $40-50 and more. I'm not even sure they are worth the extra cost, although I am partial to the Irish Red and the Golden Ale liquids.

Tony

 

[Rossco]

Rossco, can I ask you about your tastes in commercial beers? Given that you prefer more expensive mixes, I wonder if you would choose a commercial beer over a home brew if offered the choice?

For me, I am getting to a point where I don't consider commercial beers worth the money any more. In fact I'd choose my home brew over most commercial beers any day (when I get them right). I think that sometimes influences what you brew.

I've tried various liquid mixes with HBS yeasts and additives, which pushes the brew cost up to $40-50 and more. I'm not even sure they are worth the extra cost, although I am partial to the Irish Red and the Golden Ale liquids.

Tony

I very rarely buy beer any more. Heck the last time I bought commercial beer it was only to get the corona bottles

I would choose a properly done (temp/yeast etc) homebrew kit (even a coopers supermarket tin...but not their 'original series') over a commercial beer anytime.

Regardless if it costs $50 for a brew, you still getting 19-20 litres of golden goodness, compared to say $35 a slab for 9 litres (24*375ml) of *insert brand here*. Yes its more time consuming in the cleaning & checking etc, but WELL worth the effort to say "I Farken brewed that!"

What i love about brewing is the fact there are so many different varieties/methods/ingerdients to choose from it virtually endless and there is a brew for everyone's taste

After my dirty hoe, im going to have a go at a little creatures Pale and something like a beamish RED or caffrey's

 

[boingk]

Rossco - dead on! I bought my first case of beer in a whole year the other week and felt a little sad and a little glad - sad because I knew I could have put down 2.5 cases worth for the same price, glad because it was the 1 year anniversary of my brewing journey!

I always enjoy the whole "i made this" thing about DIY jobs. Even simple stuff like cooking your own cakes or whatever - surprising how much better they are then bought. Same deal with HB.

Cheers - boingk

PS: Keeping it on topic, one of the best kits I've bought from the supermarket turned out to be a good old Cascade Porter! Added 1kg dark liquid malt, 5oog yellowbox honey and 20g Cascade hops [should have used goldings!]. Came out a treat, especially after 4 to 6 months.

 

[tgilbert]

A new instalment in the supermarket challenge saga ... my lager yeast doesn't seem to have fired. It's now day three since I pitched it in a jug of warm water. I left it on the bench for an hour or so, then popped it in the fridge to cool to the same temp as the fermenter mix (20 degrees). I checked it in the morning and it appeared to be developing, so I aerated the wort and stirred it in. Since then I have seen no fermentation activity at all.

Have I killed my yeast? Can I add a fresh yeast batch to the brew? Am I risking infection by having the brew sitting there without an active yeast?

Tony

 

[l7edwards]

A new instalment in the supermarket challenge saga ... my lager yeast doesn't seem to have fired. It's now day three since I pitched it in a jug of warm water. I left it on the bench for an hour or so, then popped it in the fridge to cool to the same temp as the fermenter mix (20 degrees). I checked it in the morning and it appeared to be developing, so I aerated the wort and stirred it in. Since then I have seen no fermentation activity at all.

Have I killed my yeast? Can I add a fresh yeast batch to the brew? Am I risking infection by having the brew sitting there without an active yeast?

Tony

I'm currently fermenting a coopers euro lager and had a similar problem with the yeast. I pitched it (no starter) at about 20-22*C, put it in the esky outside - checked it the next day and the temp went down to about 12 and it hadnt started yet. So i took it out (rose to about 16*) gave a bit of a swirl and went to work. Came home and it was off like a rocket couldnt even get a second between bubbles. Other than that im not sure if you've killed the yeast, aerating the wort might have added to this, if theres no sign in the next 24hours i think you should consider a new yeast

 

[tgilbert]

I'm currently fermenting a coopers euro lager and had a similar problem with the yeast. I pitched it (no starter) at about 20-22*C, put it in the esky outside - checked it the next day and the temp went down to about 12 and it hadnt started yet. So i took it out (rose to about 16*) gave a bit of a swirl and went to work. Came home and it was off like a rocket couldnt even get a second between bubbles. Other than that im not sure if you've killed the yeast, aerating the wort might have added to this, if theres no sign in the next 24hours i think you should consider a new yeast

Hi, strangely enough the Coopers leaflet had virtually no instructions about how to pitch the yeast, although it does point out that this is a 'true lager yeast' and so behaves differently to other yeasts. So I rang the Coopers help line (first time ever) and asked their advice. The guy on the phone was extremely helpful and pointed out that bubbles aren't the only sign of primary fermentation - condensation under the lid of the fermenter and froth on top of the mix are sure signs too. My brew had both of those signs, so he thought there was probaby air escaping from the lid of the fermenter. I have now taken the lid off, given the o-ring a good clean-up and put it back on. We'll see how that goes. Should see bubbles within 24 hours if he's right. If not, might have to abandon that mix because I think it will be too late to add another yeast, even though it's now at 14 degrees.

Tony

 

[Hefty]

The guy on the phone was extremely helpful and pointed out that bubbles aren't the only sign of primary fermentation - condensation under the lid of the fermenter and froth on top of the mix are sure signs too. My brew had both of those signs...I have now taken the lid off, given the o-ring a good clean-up and put it back on. We'll see how that goes. Should see bubbles within 24 hours if he's right. If not, might have to abandon that mix

If it has both of these signs, keep it even if it doesn't bubble now that you've cleaned the o-ring etc. If the yeast is showing activity such as froth on the top of the brew then it's doing its job. Even if you don't have a perfect seal, the CO2 being formed will still help keep nasties out. Just keep watching the krausen (froth) and keep testing the SG with your hydrometer.
If it was a bad batch of yeast then you've only lost $20ish of ingredients and one or two weeks where you might have started another brew. But if it was good and you throw it out now, you'll never know.

Jono.