The Keezer Build

[stilvia]

Yes I know - long dip tube = beer, short dip tube = gas. The long tube was put on the OUT hole and the short tube on the IN hole. This I know is correct. What I'm not sure about is whether I put the gas post on the IN hole.

Yep, so all i'm saying is if you did put the gas on the out post, you may have scrubbed some flavor off the beer.

 

[earle]

Yes I know - long dip tube = beer, short dip tube = gas. The long tube was put on the OUT hole and the short tube on the IN hole. This I know is correct. What I'm not sure about is whether I put the gas post on the IN hole.


That makes sense, but what if the gas post is on the beer dip tube? Then it won't work.....

Only if you connect your disconnects up backwards as well. But I reckon you'd be better off fixing the posts if they are backwards. Its not going to lose all the carbonation from your beer, mostly just from the headspace in the keg. Do it as quick as you can, and afterwards purge the headspace with CO2 and leave it connected, it'll soon be right.

 

[Meddo]

That makes sense, but what if the gas post is on the beer dip tube? Then it won't work.....

If the gas post is on the beer dip tube then you have two options:

1. Unscrew the gas and beer posts and swap them over
2. Swap the gas disconnect onto the beer line and beer disconnect onto the gas line and leave the posts and tubes as they are

Up to you which you prefer, but either will work fine. For my setup I have MFL disconnects with push-in fittings screwed onto them so it would be trivial for me to pull the lines out of the disconnects and reverse them. If you've got your lines hose-clamped onto barbed disconnects though it's probably easier to unscrew the posts and put them back the right way around.

 

[BKBrews]

Yep, so all i'm saying is if you did put the gas on the out post, you may have scrubbed some flavor off the beer.

I don't mean to be rude, but how on earth do you come to that conclusion? Essentially there is absolutely no difference either way, except my disconnects (which is outside the keg and not in contact with the beer) won't fit properly on the correct posts. There is absolutely no possible way it will affect the flavour of the beer.

Thanks for everyones replies. I think if they're incorrect, I'll just quickly swap the posts over and purge the headspace.

Now, back to my build

 

[Meddo]

I believe stilvia is referring to if you'd actually run gas through the beer tube and had it bubbling up through the beer. I suspect personally that that wouldn't be a big issue anyway (happy to be corrected) since the force-carbing method does just that with seemingly no ill effects.

 

[stilvia]

Normally CO2 comes in and fills the head space. The CO2 then dissolves into your beer.

If you connect the CO2 to your beer out, the CO2 travels through the dip tube to the bottom of your keg and then bubbles through your beer to the head space. This is known to scrub flavor, but is often done to get rid of DMS from beer.

 

[BKBrews]

Normally CO2 comes in and fills the head space. The CO2 then dissolves into your beer.

If you connect the CO2 to your beer out, the CO2 travels through the dip tube to the bottom of your keg and then bubbles through your beer to the head space. This is known to scrub flavor, but is often done to get rid of DMS from beer.

OK no worries. No CO2 has been purged into the keg - I have naturally primed these kegs with dextrose as my gas setup has not been finished yet.

 

[stilvia]

Ah, no worries. Going off what you said I thought you had actually hooked gas up. All makes sense.

 

[Tahoose]

Just to make things confusing, sometimes if I'm using a keg for something like a punch at a party and I can't be bothered with ice and c02 plus reg ect.

I swap the posts around and lie the keg on its side. Then use a picnic tap for dispense.

 

[BKBrews]

Would my chesty definitely be aluminium panelling? Or could it be steel? I just found out I have to prime for the paint I bought if it's aluminium. Should have just got the white knight paint! I also only have ceiling rollers, so I need to buy foam rollers.

Ugh.

 

[BKBrews]

Would my chesty definitely be aluminium panelling? Or could it be steel? I just found out I have to prime for the paint I bought if it's aluminium. Should have just got the white knight paint! I also only have ceiling rollers, so I need to buy foam rollers.

Ugh.

 

[black_labb]

Would my chesty definitely be aluminium panelling? Or could it be steel? I just found out I have to prime for the paint I bought if it's aluminium. Should have just got the white knight paint! I also only have ceiling rollers, so I need to buy foam rollers.
Ugh.

It is probably steel. check with a magnet (a freezer magnet as opposed to a fridge magnet )

Ive got a Keezer build going at the moment as well.

 

[earle]

Very unlikely that its aluminum

 

[BKBrews]

Well, I primed it anyway.... We'll see how we go. I read a few places online that said aluminium is often used, so decided to just be safe. I've just laid the primer and will let it sit for 2 hours, sand it back with fine paper and then do the first top coat.

 

[bevan]

Just in case you haven't worked out the difference between the two gas and liquid posts here's a picture of what gas in post should be marked with [emoji482]

 

[BKBrews]

So I just checked and on one keg I have two gas posts and then on the other I have one of each, but on the wrong sides. So I will need to take one off one of the kegs and replace it and then switch them both on the other keg.

I've got one coat of paint on, but as per usual with me and painting I was too heavy handed. Super hard to get a consistent finish with the roller but it looks OK and will hopefully look better again as it dries. In any case, I will sand it down with fine grit blocks prior to the second coat and hopefully I can use moderation. I was actually planning on 3 thin coats but I can just never get it right with paint.

 

[BKBrews]

Looked pretty good this morning and it still had about 9 hours left to completely dry and re-coat. That's the annoying part with paint, it doesn't look right when you put it on, so you try and compensate, over-compensate, then stuff it up. I think a light sand and then another coat will do the trick.

 

[spog]

Slow and steady wins the race, yeah stuffing the paint job up would be a PITA but once it's done it's beer time!

 

[BKBrews]

It's official, I'm a **** painter - it looks patchy and not that great. I actually think the primer was a bad decision in the end, because it was a rough surface compared to the sanded metal.

Trying to decide whether I bother re-doing it (easily got enough paint), but I probably won't - will take too long to strip down again and as long as it's functional it will be fine.

2nd coat on tonight and we'll see how it looks in the morning.

Collar being built tomorrow, but unfortunately all of my gear didn't arrive this week. Hoping for tap beer next weekend.

 

[earle]

Maybe think about a hammertone finish. They can look great and make it easy to hide flaws.