The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Buy thread

[MastersBrewery]

Here is the build complete with the color coded buttons, 20x4 display, mega mounted and all neatly in a clear fronted box

ClearBoxMega1.jpg

Of course, the code all fits on a uno at the moment, so no advantage to a mega right now... but it is there...

The one thing I would like to fit is: http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/Shield-Shield-for-Spark-Core-p-1837.html and http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/Spark-Core-with-Chip-Antenna-p-1495.html

But I think there are some adaptations that would need to be made. Would be nice to flash code without opening the box. And... potentially notifications on your phone... the possibilities!

Edit: You will need m3x18mm standoffs for the larger screen (the ones I was supplying with the 16x2 are 15mm ones).

hmmm depends, would a RPi fit behind all that? I mean why not run the whole lot over the network? Though couple of python programs and a few php pages would be required.

 

[lael]

I don't have any idea what would be required - but I'm thinking an app on the phone that tells you where the unit is up to in the cycle, estimated time to mash out. Program the mash cycle on your phone, and hit upload. Phone buzzes when it goes through steps and when it needs you to pull malt pipe out and put hops in. Remote start of the mashing cycle? Why not?

Only difference is I'm thinking brauduino pushes to phone, rather than have to load a webpage.

 

[Deevotronics]

Hi Deevo, I had a similar issue and may be of help. I have tried different codes to no avail. I traced it back to either a faulty or improperly grounded bulkhead temp probe. Started out as stuck temp which screwed with the timings as you described, then manifested into the 85 degree issue which is the sensors way of saying "error". I have gone through two so far. Third one seems to be holding its own after a solid 'earthing' effort. 7 brews so far no issues.

Hi MFleck, I have the shield of the temp probe and the common of the 12VDC power supply (therefore the black wire of the probe) connected to earth back in the box. During construction I found that if I didnt have them both earthed the readings were all over the shop and scrambled. Just measured it and It seems the shield of the device's cable is not actually connected to the outer case of the probe, which i thought it would be given most transducers with metallic housing have this, so the case of the sensor has no earth. I'm confident in my wiring thus didn't feel the need to earth the chassis (pot and stand) but probably best to earth the whole thing for my old friend Justin Case. This would of course mean a solid earth to the case of the probe. Is this what you found solved the problem, earthing the outer case of the probe?

Cheers.

 

[lael]

If the pot is earthed, and the nut on the bulkhead is screwed to the pot, shouldnt the probe casing be earthed? Unless probe is screwed with an o ring both sides of the pot wall. Or if the pot isn't earthed (why risk death?).

 

[Deevotronics]

Using silicone o-ring internally, stainless nut and washer on outside of pot so temp probe bulkhead has direct electrical connection to pot.

Pot is not earthed because I was planning on using pump as earthing connection to the pot (via pump mounting bracket and then pump lead) but due to unforseen design issues my pump is now connected to the pot via the head only thus no metal on metal.

As I mentioned above, I will be earthing the pot to see if that helps the temp reading issue, perhaps weird harmonics and electromagnetic interference is being generated thus screwing with the internal analog/digital converter of the DS1820 and shielding its internals by earthing the case of the probe is just what it needs. Will report back with findings.

 

[zwitter]

I would say earthing the pot is essential.
The element we use can fail and that failure is for the wire to short to the case of the element. The case of the element needs to be grounded to make it safe. The instructions say to use the element mounting nut for connecting earth wire. Earth should be connected to the earth from the power inlet. Earth also needs to be connected to 240v pump and the power outlet sockets for heater and pump.

Note 12v gnd is not the same as earth. Connecting earth to 12v ground to earth is probably not necessary and may cause earth loop problems.

The sensor needs all 3 wires connected. The case of the sensor can also be used as an earth connection using the nut on the outside of pot.

Earthing the pot properly will save your (or your kids,wife,buddies) life.

I would also suggest using an earth leakage device in the power circuit supplying the Braumiser. You can buy portable ones for about $25 that plug in to power point and then plug into the back of them.

Regards

James


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[Deevotronics]

Note 12v gnd is not the same as earth. Connecting earth to 12v ground to earth is probably not necessary and may cause earth loop problems.

The 12V supplies have switch mode outputs so their DC stage has no reference to earth. Connecting the 12V GND to earth provides that reference, which is necessary in some but not all applications and helps suppress electrical noise. I did this because I assumed the shield wire of the probe was connected to its outer case, and my pot is not currently earthed (pun intended). Connecting shield to earth is a must for suppression of induced noise.

Given there is no electrical connection between the probe wiring and its case, earthing the 12VDC common AND the shield wires AND the pot including the case of the temp probe is necessary to stop interference and will not create an earth loop problem. Just confirmed with a multimeter.

 

[NealK]

Sorry if this has been asked before, I have looked here and in Matho's controller thread but could not find a simple answer.
I am just about to start building my kit but like the idea of the 20x4 screen.
Is this the right kind of thing?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2004-Quality-LCD-Character-Display-Module-20x4-Yellow-on-Blue-Arduino-AVR-PIC-/271317346883?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item3f2bc62a43&_uhb=1
Will I need to change anything else except the size of the hole for the lcd? Will this screen fit on to the same connectors? Will I need different spacers?
I am not very confident with all this stuff and want to have everything planned before I start.
Thanks to everybody that has contributed to this (and the other) thread, you are making average blokes like me look like mad scientist inventors to our friends and family!

 

[neo__04]

That screen should be will work fine with the arduino.

It fits the same connectors, uses the same amount of pins. spacers will be the same.

Just keep in mind if you are using the braudruino controller faceplace from eaton laser, it wont suit the faceplace. Size of the screen and placement.

Otherwise if your doing a diy enclosure, just cut it to suit. easy

 

[lael]

ok, so I contacted the supplier of the box and they said they can put holes in the box for us. They've asked where to put them. Question is... would people want the holes in the lid only, or also for the power in and sockets and for the 2pin and 3pin connectors, ssr cutout? It locks you into a layout for the placement of components, but makes the build easier. Any thoughts?

(I'm not sure yet what / how much they can do).

 

[MastersBrewery]

I don't have any idea what would be required - but I'm thinking an app on the phone that tells you where the unit is up to in the cycle, estimated time to mash out. Program the mash cycle on your phone, and hit upload. Phone buzzes when it goes through steps and when it needs you to pull malt pipe out and put hops in. Remote start of the mashing cycle? Why not?

Only difference is I'm thinking brauduino pushes to phone, rather than have to load a webpage.

I think it really depends just how far down the rabbit hole one wants to venture. The reason I said Raspberry Pi was it has already been used as a arduino backend on many successful projects. Of course the Pi has it's own GPIO but why reinvent the wheel. So then you have this put them all together and you have a nice little phone app interfacing with the Pi that is in turn controlling the Brauduino. Just wish I could program in python.


MB

 

[NealK]

I have completed my build and everything seems to work well. All I changed was to upgrade the ac connections to be 15amp
The only issue I have now is that the temperature reading is about 2 degrees low (reading 66 but actually 68 and boils at 96.5). Is there a setting somewhere to calibrate the temperature probe?

 

[shaodw]

Am very keen on the next run of kits, subbed for updated.

 

[Kingy]

Am very keen on the next run of kits, subbed for updated.

+1

 

[pedleyr]

I imagine that the code base for this: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/howto-make-brewpi-fermentation-controller-cheap-466106/ would be a good base starting wfor someone with the ability and the time to interface this with a Raspberry Pi and have a web front end...

 

[hotmelt]

Do you think this will be of any use if it gets the funding?

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/809215184/widgeduino?ref=discovery

 

[MastersBrewery]

I imagine that the code base for this: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/howto-make-brewpi-fermentation-controller-cheap-466106/ would be a good base starting wfor someone with the ability and the time to interface this with a Raspberry Pi and have a web front end...

yeah that is one of the projects the other was kegbot, note the project above is Brewpi not an HBT project


MB

 

[bcavan]

Sorry if this has been asked before, I have looked here and in Matho's controller thread but could not find a simple answer.
I am just about to start building my kit but like the idea of the 20x4 screen.
Is this the right kind of thing?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2004-Quality-LCD-Character-Display-Module-20x4-Yellow-on-Blue-Arduino-AVR-PIC-/271317346883?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item3f2bc62a43&_uhb=1
Will I need to change anything else except the size of the hole for the lcd? Will this screen fit on to the same connectors? Will I need different spacers?
I am not very confident with all this stuff and want to have everything planned before I start.
Thanks to everybody that has contributed to this (and the other) thread, you are making average blokes like me look like mad scientist inventors to our friends and family!

Hey NealK,
I ordered the 20x4 LCD screen from your eBay link and the LCD brightness is quite a bit dimmer than the 16x2 (the 16x2 worked just fine and was pretty bright). On checking the data sheet I discovered that the backlight operating current & voltages are different from the 16x2 (in fact the 16x2 still lights up fine when I touch the contacts against the 20x4 pins). I don't have the know how to change the shield and the screens still legible so I might just leave it be, knowing my luck I'd break something else fiddling with it.

Just my 2 cents,

Bren

 

[zwitter]

I ordered this ebay item 271061312409 and another like 121189232611.
They mostly use the same chip so text should be ok. May need to check the backlight connections and adjust the brightness pot or maybe the resistors connected to the adjustment pot. Many of us can assist with that or probably even help with the solution if you can present the problem with details.

James
Zwitter


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[marksy]

Hey can you still buy this from the original poster?

Cheers Chris.