Temp controller that does not require wiring

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
slash22000 said:
I'm going to go ahead and assume there is a reason it only costs $10.
I bought one of those probably 12 months ago, have used it a few times with no problems. Had it on the cheese fridge for about six weeks straight no dramas. I will admit I too had my concerns but that's only because of the price not the unit, if it had a price tag of 60 bucks less people would have concerns about its quality.
 
I bought one of the ten dollar ones and an stc too.

The ten dollar one doesn't allow you to set a threshold nor a compressor delay. Might end up switching the fridge on and off every minute.
 
damoninja said:
I bought one of the ten dollar ones and an stc too.

The ten dollar one doesn't allow you to set a threshold nor a compressor delay. Might end up switching the fridge on and off every minute.
Im not sure what you mean here? how does a compressor delay and or threshold avoid this? I am a bit at a loss here.. :| also what was your experience with the $10 one? do you think i should go ahead with the STC?
 
Elderfi said:
Im not sure what you mean here? how does a compressor delay and or threshold avoid this? I am a bit at a loss here.. :| also what was your experience with the $10 one? do you think i should go ahead with the STC?
Do you know what a compressor delay is? I assume not.

It is a timer (delay) since the last time the compressor was active, before it may be active again. So if it has just finished cooling and you open the door, it will not allow the fridge to start back up for the set period, even though it sees the temperature has risen past the threshold. This prevents the compressor trying to stat up against gasses that are still compressed and burning itself out.
 
Guys this is the best STC wiring thread I've seen. Any way to make this one more prominent than the others?
 
I'm about as useless as a Gherkin in a pickle jar but Qldkev's wiring diagram is so simple.

STC 1000 Wiring.png

Wire at your own risk but I did both mine like this & they work perfectly.
 
QldKev said:
Do you know what a compressor delay is? I assume not.

It is a timer (delay) since the last time the compressor was active, before it may be active again. So if it has just finished cooling and you open the door, it will not allow the fridge to start back up for the set period, even though it sees the temperature has risen past the threshold. This prevents the compressor trying to stat up against gasses that are still compressed and burning itself out.
No. But I do now. Actually I feel I'm pretty across this whole topic. So a big thanks to every one who has contributed.
 
Which ever way you go, put the temp probe in an empty PET bottle of water so the temp does not fluctuate too much.

And if you do wire it yourself, get a sparky to check it over for you. As can be seen wiring an STC is not that hard but killing yourself or a family member is easy if you make a simple mistake.

Cheers
 
I've used 3 of those cheap ones. Cannot complain. Used one for my fermenting fridge, one on the keezer. I noticed that the unit has a built in compressor delay that I can't over ride, but it works perfectly at the preset delay.

Now I have just a keezer and again one of these. It's just so convenient to plug into the wall instead of finding a spot for the box and making sure it doesn't get spilt on, stepped on or something stupid.

When I first got one (think there is a post a while back in the eBay thread), I took the dive, got one and pulled it apart to post pictures of internals and specs of components. I don't recall any negative comments. I'm not a sparky or extremely electrically inclined so I have to think about those things but it didn't get any bad comments from any users at all. I'm a fan of the simplicity. The built in temp probe handles a fair bit hotter than the rated temps too. Also got a keg king one for the mash tun.
 
As like a few others I'm pretty concerned at the amount of people encouraging Elderfi to wire up his own unit. Yes, the circuit is simple but jumping straight into wiring mains power with no previous electronics experience is crazy. I'll reiterate bradsbrew and say if you do make it yourself, GET IT CHECKED. I have basic experience with electronics in the past but only did mine myself because I had someone that could check it.

If you can find a pre-built box for $60-$70 I'd recommend just buying that. By the time you buy the STC, box, and other bits you're looking at $30-$40 all up anyway. An extra $40 for a professionally built unit is worth the peace of mind if you can't get a self built one checked. Elderfi, I notice your location is Canberra. Last time I was in Brew You Own At Home down in Kambah I believe they had pre-assembled temp controllers there. I find the prices there are often more expensive than online (ebay or online brew stores) but the staff are always friendly and helpful. There are also a handful on ebay ready to go for the $60-$70 mark w/ shipping.
 
There a new ones on ebay, from local supplier.
Type thermostat home brew. Under $60 and possibly under $50.
Look the goods.
 
I appreciate the concern guys, and im not going to lie, I was going to go ahead and attempt this my self. Now however, if i go ahead with it, ill get it checked out. I have several friends in my home town who are sprarkies. as my friend once told "dont **** with with electricty, you cant see it and it will kill you"

On those cheap one, i noticed that it can do heating and cooling. is simultaneously? i mean can you set it so it doesn't drop below say 17 and doesnt climb above 19? and plug a double adapter into the power socket, or would you purchase two?

On the heating topic, would a fish tank heater in a bottle of water in the fridge provide enough heat? I have one at home which used to heat 2500 ltrs to 28 degrees no worries. Im only concerned about heating because Glengine pointed out I am in Canberra and despite it getting stinking hot here it still drops to 5 or even 0 at night.
 
Elderfi said:
On those cheap one, i noticed that it can do heating and cooling. is simultaneously? i mean can you set it so it doesn't drop below say 17 and doesnt climb above 19? and plug a double adapter into the power socket, or would you purchase two?

On the heating topic, would a fish tank heater in a bottle of water in the fridge provide enough heat? I have one at home which used to heat 2500 ltrs to 28 degrees no worries. Im only concerned about heating because Glengine pointed out I am in Canberra and despite it getting stinking hot here it still drops to 5 or even 0 at night.
Hre's the instructions from my unit. You will notice that it has a differential of 2'c. 1' above set point to 1' below set point.
Operating instructions:
  • Switch on the thermostat with power. The screen shows current temperature.
  • Button "SETTING": used for switch between "WORKING" mode and "SETTING" mode. Press once, the thermostat go into setting mode, press another, the thermostat goes back to working mode.
  • Button "TEMPERATURE +": used for elevating temperature. When the screen shows "SETTING", each pressing on the button elevates 1 degree . Long pressing on increases the temperature till +38 degree. After 5 seconds no operating, the thermostat returns to working mode.
  • Button "TEMPERATURE -": used for lowering temperature. When the screen shows "SETTING", each pressing on the button reduce 1degree . Long pressing on lowers the temperature till -9 degree. After 5 seconds no operating, the thermostat returns to working mode.
Heating mode and cooling mode change:
  • In the "WORKING" mode, press Button "TEMPERATURE +", after 4 seconds, the "WORK" mode will change, heating mode to cooling mode, or cooling mode to heating mode.
  • Heating mode(red light bright):.
  • When current temperature ≤ set temperature - 1degree ,switch on the power.
  • When current temperature ≥ set temperature + 1degree ,cut off the power.
  • Cooling mode(green light bright):.
  • When current temperature ≥ set temperature + 1degree ,switch on the power.
  • When current temperature ≤ set temperature - 1degree ,cut off the power.
  • Protection function:When short circuit occurs, temperature screen shows [dd], the power automatically cut off.
 
Elderfi said:
I am in Canberra and despite it getting stinking hot here it still drops to 5 or even 0 at night.
I would recommend getting one with both heating and cooling circuits and not a unit that does only one or the other at any time. I'm in Canberra too, and you've probably noticed the odd weather we are currently having. Monday got to 31, but tomorrow it's only going to get to 15. Then last night it only got down to 15 but on the weekend it got down to 0.

As for using the fish tank heater in some water I can't say how well it would work but it should be pretty easy to test. Set it all up in the fridge and then put your fermenter filled with 20L of water in the fridge with it. Measure the temp of the water in the fermenter when you put it in, then again after a few hours with the heater on and see how much it changes.
I paid $20 or so for a 22W reptile heat cord and don't recall any of my brews falling below the temp threshold in winter (when set to 18C).
 
The cheap ones can only do one thing at a time as it one has one outlet, so you would need 2.
I ferment in an old home made (by a fridgie) tucker box freezer and use an STC to control its temp, which is perfect. Most of the time the heating outlet has nothing in it, but during winter I plug in a lamp with a terracotta pot as the lamp shade. This is to help keep a constant temp overnight, which is good for the yeast. The STC does it all for me, so maybe that is the better option although you could buy 2 cheap units.

I have wired a few of these now but each time I have taken the wiring diagram from this forum and the unit and got a fridge mechanic sparky to check it. When you get a sparky to check it make sure they have experience with thermostats and appliances. Have seen a domestic cable monkey get the wiring of these things wrong more than once.

Cheers
 
I've made makeshift spiwraps to protect cables and hold them snug with tie wraps. Easiest thing to use...
 
Ducatiboy stu said:
"shakes head"
Why? They hold tight against the cables if you tighten them up properly, and are larger than the holes the cords poke through in the jiffy box. I've had mine wired up by someone who's literally done dozens, and this is the method he used.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top