Stc Wiring For Brown_hound

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tonyt

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Mate, don't laugh too loud at this.....Cheers

hound.jpg
 
Mate, don't laugh too loud at this.....Cheers


I was bracing myself for a chuckle, but no!

No reason...

This is spot on for a 'cooling only' output from your STC-1000..

All's u need to do now is translate the pic into physically cabling it...

Have I posted enough images in the previous threads? Need any more photos?
 
And remember to read through all that other info carefully...

If going into a metal box, the box also needs to be earthed...
 
I was bracing myself for a chuckle, but no!

No reason...

This is spot on for a 'cooling only' output from your STC-1000..

All's u need to do now is translate the pic into physically cabling it...

Have I posted enough images in the previous threads? Need any more photos?

No mate, that is enough info....so where cables meet, can I just use the screw type connectors?? Also is the earth ok the way i have shown it? Just one thing confuses me, can you explain in dummies terms why there is an active coming out of both 7 and 8 terminals???
 
No mate, that is enough info....so where cables meet, can I just use the screw type connectors?? Also is the earth ok the way i have shown it? Just one thing confuses me, can you explain in dummies terms why there is an active coming out of both 7 and 8 terminals???
Active is going IN to 7, through a relay/switch and then OUT of 8 to power your fridge.
Nige
 
No mate, that is enough info....so where cables meet, can I just use the screw type connectors?? Also is the earth ok the way i have shown it? Just one thing confuses me, can you explain in dummies terms why there is an active coming out of both 7 and 8 terminals???


Yeah mate,

Well have a really close look at your diagram...

Going into seven is what's called the 'unswitched active' it's fed from the outlet at the wall, and hence the male side of the extension lead..

The 8 terminal is the switched active, and the temperature controller switches the power out through this to the active on the female side of the extension cord...

Imagine a light switch... On, Off, On, Off... It's the same principle, but it's automatically controlled by the unit... Does this make sense?
 
Sorry mate, missed one bit.

Yeah, the tunnel type 'BP connectors' are the ones to use...

With the earth connection, you MUST use a 2x screw connector... You can see that one pictured on one of those other threads...
 
Sorry mate, missed one bit.

Yeah, the tunnel type 'BP connectors' are the ones to use...

With the earth connection, you MUST use a 2x screw connector... You can see that one pictured on one of those other threads...

What's wrong with twist together and a piece of shrink wrap or elec tape?

Please say "nothing"!! :unsure:
 
What's wrong with twist together and a piece of shrink wrap or elec tape?

Please say "nothing"!! :unsure:

:lol:


Nothing's saying it won't work...

Remember we're talking about 240V... Safety's the number 1 priority...

The advice I'm giving is Australian standards compliant...
 
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=post+whore

Check out link one, and responses 2 and 3....

Thanks for your helpful input.

No, not the case..

Just supplying the fella with some diagrams to help him with what he's decided to do himself.

I have no idea his electrical ability and am trying to be of assistance.



There's no need for that kind of crap.

Hound
 
i didnt use any screw terminals and just wound the wires together and chucked both of them in the unit, no dramas and real neat. the first one i did i cut, soldered and electrical taped, still working solidly but i would do it the way i did my latest one in the future
 
i didnt use any screw terminals and just wound the wires together and chucked both of them in the unit, no dramas and real neat. the first one i did i cut, soldered and electrical taped, still working solidly but i would do it the way i did my latest one in the future

Damn sight easier to use screw terminal blocks and quicker, twisted wires and taped connections would not pass any safety inspection. Insulation tape falls off when the glue dries out or gets wet.
 
Ok it's late - but
7-8 powers the unit, 1-2 is the switch, haven't you got a dead short (Active to Neutral) as soon as the switch closes?
Shouldn't it be Active to 1, with a jumper to 7
2 to the appliance and gang the neutrals at 8
Earth everything.
Seriously I thing that drawing is dangerously wrong!

MHB

No I take it back; the drawing is fine I was looking at the wrong drawing. Got a couple sitting here and picked up the wrong one.

Mark
 
For piece of mind and safety, I have made a mock up, cause i am still waiting for the thermostat to arrive.........this ok?


G'day there Tony...

Yep... Very nice...

Cant tell from the pic, but obviously the cable on the right hand side is the female half of your extension lead, and the left is the male..

I'd still give the terminal block a miss though with the earths (as you're physically making a join), and just make that join with the 2xscrew BP.. Just that bit safer...

Otherwise, perfect!
 
G'day there Tony...

Yep... Very nice...

Cant tell from the pic, but obviously the cable on the right hand side is the female half of your extension lead, and the left is the male..

I'd still give the terminal block a miss though with the earths (as you're physically making a join), and just make that join with the 2xscrew BP.. Just that bit safer...

Otherwise, perfect!

Thanks Mate...yes re position of extension cords............but, excuse my ignorance but i don't understand what you mean with the earth.....can you do a quick rough sketch for me?
 
Thanks Mate...yes re position of extension cords............but, excuse my ignorance but i don't understand what you mean with the earth.....can you do a quick rough sketch for me?


It's a bit hard to see in the picture, but the two earth cables are both running into this BP connector..

Same as how both earth cables run into either side of the terminal block..

So with your mockup, just take the earth cable out from either side of the terminal block, then strip approximately 1.5cm worth of insulation back from copper conductors, twist together, then bend back the copper in half.

Secure then with the BP, ensuring both screws screw into copper (not insulation) nice and firmly.

This will give a really good quality earth, maintaining its integrity from the fridge casing, all the way back to the switchboard..

IMG_0232_1_.JPG
 
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