Stc 1000 Temp Controller

[kieran]

Guys, does it not alarm anyone that there is no earth running to any of these controllers themselves?

 

[Nick JD]

Guys, does it not alarm anyone that there is no earth running to any of these controllers themselves?

Does the actual controller run at 240V? Or is it reduced?

The appliance it controls is being grounded.

 

[Wolfy]

Guys, does it not alarm anyone that there is no earth running to any of these controllers themselves?

Should it? Same with all the other non-earthed appliances around the house?

 

[kieran]

Does the actual controller run at 240V? Or is it reduced?

The appliance it controls is being grounded.

The controller probably doesnt, but it has 240V terminals controlled by 240V switching relays..

Wolfy: Not sure, that's why I'm wondering. I always assumed the controller itself was double insulated because it didn't have an earth, but I thought about it a while ago and didn't come to any conclusion, and seeing the wiring diagram on pg2 again reminded me. I don't know if any current leak would pass through the appliance and be grounded that way. With bare terminals though.. I guess the relays may be double insulated, but I'm just not sure. I'd be happy for a sparky to chime in. All other household non-earthed appliances are double insulated so that faults from live to conductive are basically impossible. I gather that's the case here, but I don't know for sure.

 

[Deebo]

The controller probably doesnt, but it has 240V terminals controlled by 240V switching relays..

Wolfy: Not sure, that's why I'm wondering. I always assumed the controller itself was double insulated because it didn't have an earth, but I thought about it a while ago and didn't come to any conclusion, and seeing the wiring diagram on pg2 again reminded me. I don't know if any current leak would pass through the appliance and be grounded that way. With bare terminals though.. I guess the relays may be double insulated, but I'm just not sure. I'd be happy for a sparky to chime in. All other household non-earthed appliances are double insulated so that faults from live to conductive are basically impossible. I gather that's the case here, but I don't know for sure.

A bit off topic but I bought a cheap ozito rotary tool to cut some holes in my jiffy box which has no earth on the plug, though it was a bit strange seeing it has a metal body etc, though I know nearly nothing about electronics.

 

[Amber Fluid]

I am wanting to put a powerpoint to run a fan for the freezer in the same box as my temp controller. I have no worries wiring the temp controller as per the diagram below and have done so a couple of times. However, I would like to know if I am correct with the following.

Using the same wiring as the diagram below would all I have to do is "piggy back" off the wire joiners to the power plug?
It would also be nice to have a switch to turn on and off as well, so do I run the active from the plug to the switch then to the wire joiner (Blue)?... if I can't do this then I just wont run a switch.

Any advice from the people who know will be appreciated......

 

[Amber Fluid]

ok, obviously this question was too silly and obviously it can be piggy backed like I mentioned. However, I was always told that no question is too silly so considering this is 240v played around with, I just wanted to make sure.

 

[Nevalicious]

ok, obviously this question was too silly and obviously it can be piggy backed like I mentioned. However, I was always told that no question is too silly so considering this is 240v played around with, I just wanted to make sure.

Ok, I'll help...

All you need to do is piggy back off the joiners or terminals like you said: Red (active), Blue or Black (neutral) and Green/Yellow (earth) and run them to the power point... Easy peasy...

If you require a switch (personally I wouldn't bother if you are in any way unsure) all you need to do is take the active wire which was going to the new socket outlet and cut it and connect one side to the switch, the other side of the switch then goes to the active terminal on the outlet. You only really need a single pole switch for this application

There are no stupid questions, just stupid answers

:icon_cheers: :icon_cheers:

Nev

 

[Amber Fluid]

Thanks Nev. That is how I was thinking it's done but I just wanted to make sure.
:beer:

 

[Yob]

First negative feedback on this topic I think, Its not the STC 1000 it must be said, but similar item from THIS SELLER

I had reason to think that one of my controllers was out, so tinkering today when dry hopping I took a thermometer reading and checked it against the STC and was pretty much spot on, I then ran the probe from the other item (forthe other fridge) linked above to same fermenter to check the difference..

0.3 - 0.4'c variance.. it couldnt decide for a while <_<

cannot argue for the price I'm just sayin it's totally worth calibrating them against a trusted thermometer. (For those that have this one)

I still love it though not as much as the STC

Yob

 

[QldKev]

First negative feedback on this topic I think, Its not the STC 1000 it must be said, but similar item from THIS SELLER

I had reason to think that one of my controllers was out, so tinkering today when dry hopping I took a thermometer reading and checked it against the STC and was pretty much spot on, I then ran the probe from the other item (forthe other fridge) linked above to same fermenter to check the difference..

0.3 - 0.4'c variance.. it couldnt decide for a while <_<

cannot argue for the price I'm just sayin it's totally worth calibrating them against a trusted thermometer. (For those that have this one)

I still love it though not as much as the STC

Yob

One of my STC-1000 is 3 degrees out, against my trusty alcohol filled thermometer. Thinking about it, it is the same one that had a buzzing sound when the digit 8 is displayed when I used it on Wednesday.

QldKev

 

[Yob]

cough.. I didnt realise for ages that my F4 was set to 3'c... so I guess I was fermenting at 15 for a while there cough..

how embarresment

[edit] F number

 

[QldKev]

cough.. I didnt realise for ages that my F4 was set to 3'c... so I guess I was fermenting at 15 for a while there cough..

how embarresment

[edit] F number

lol wish mine was, but I guess then it would be 6 out as I had to set mine to -3

QldKev

 

[rotten]

I just set up a STC1000 temperature controller and thought I'd better say how I nearly broke it setting it up.

The terminals for the cooling relay (7 and 8) in and out appeared to be like the others - wound right out so the wire can be inserted and tightened - but they were wound right in. Really tight. So much so that I bent the crap out of the plastic terminal block loosening them off and I'm really surprised it didn't break the connection.

Just a heads up. I straightened the terminal block and it's running fine. Not sure if others have done this too - but if you buy an extension cord and cut it you have cheap, sealed male and female plugs ready to go.

This diagram is great. Thanks to whoever drew it :icon_cheers: .

Testing to see if I broke it! All good - cooling turned on and off.

Total cost is under $25 (box and connector block from jaycar and extension cord from bunnings).

Questions: what does everyone set the compressor delay to? Can I leave it at the default 3 minutes?

What about the difference set value? Does setting this too small make the thing turn on and off too much?

Thanks to NickJD for posting that photo and drawing. They made it very easy to hook up my two stc-1000's. I made the same unkillable mistakes as many others it seems, until I saw that photo.

Cheers :icon_cheers:

 

[winkle]

I was going to use a STC 1000 as the temp controller on a HERMES set-up, is there a suitable substitue probe available for the rubbery one that comes with the unit?

 

[Yob]

as I now have a few spare units, I was going to experiment on one of the sensors and apply some "heat shrink" type of shielding, dunno if it will work but I dont see that ive got much to lose either

Yob

 

[Batz]

I was going to use a STC 1000 as the temp controller on a HERMES set-up, is there a suitable substitue probe available for the rubbery one that comes with the unit?

This one Perry, it'll screw straight into your HERMS

http://mashmaster.com.au/p/366867/ntc-sens...e-brewmate.html

I see Ross has them as well, couple of bucks cheaper and free beer!!

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955

 

[winkle]

This one Perry, it'll screw straight into your HERMS

http://mashmaster.com.au/p/366867/ntc-sens...e-brewmate.html

I see Ross has them as well, couple of bucks cheaper and free beer!!

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955

Excellent.

 

[Truman42]

Bump...

Heres mine showing the wiring. Just waiting for my Stc 1000 to arrive in the mail. I used double BP connectors so I could fit all the wires in when joining them together.

View attachment 48752

 

[peaky]

Looking good Truman. I won't post a pick of mine........ <_<