Stc 1000 Temp Controller

[pimpsqueak]

nah i just stick it in there with a bit of tape over the hole to keep the probe in there. Seems pretty accurate without any compound.

Cool. That's what I was hoping to hear.

 

[Spork]

Thanks to all the very helpful wiring diagrams I was able to set mine up, without electrocuting myself or burning the house down.
Have done a bit of 12v wiring before, but never any 240. I read a couple of threads and saved 3 different diagrams, and the penny dropped!
Active splits 3 ways, to 1, 6 and 8, then the heating and cooling side actives connect to 5 and 7 respectivley.
Neutral splits 3 ways, to 2, and to the two neutrals in the output side.
Earth splits to the 2 output earths.
Almost forgot to add the temperature probe in my excitement... :unsure:
Hooked it all up running through a "safety switch", just for ... safety?
Tested with a radio and a glass of ice water.
All seems to be working fine.
I didn't use terminal blocks, I used nitto tape and heat shrink, and the whole thing is housed in a placcy box designed to house this sort of stuff and secured with screws. Cords are secured inside the box with zip-ties.

All up, cost me $26 for the controller (yes, I know they can be had much cheaper), IIRC about $7 for the boc, and $5.96 for 2 x 2m extension cords. $40 total!
Plan on doing at least one more. Will prob. use terminal blocks next time for neatness.
Better beer, here I come! :icon_cheers:

 

[adryargument]

Thanks to all the very helpful wiring diagrams I was able to set mine up, without electrocuting myself or burning the house down.
Have done a bit of 12v wiring before, but never any 240. I read a couple of threads and saved 3 different diagrams, and the penny dropped!
Active splits 3 ways, to 1, 6 and 8, then the heating and cooling side actives connect to 5 and 7 respectivley.
Neutral splits 3 ways, to 2, and to the two neutrals in the output side.
Earth splits to the 2 output earths.
Almost forgot to add the temperature probe in my excitement... :unsure:
Hooked it all up running through a "safety switch", just for ... safety?
Tested with a radio and a glass of ice water.
All seems to be working fine.
I didn't use terminal blocks, I used nitto tape and heat shrink, and the whole thing is housed in a placcy box designed to house this sort of stuff and secured with screws. Cords are secured inside the box with zip-ties.

All up, cost me $26 for the controller (yes, I know they can be had much cheaper), IIRC about $7 for the boc, and $5.96 for 2 x 2m extension cords. $40 total!
Plan on doing at least one more. Will prob. use terminal blocks next time for neatness.
Better beer, here I come! :icon_cheers:

Nearly exactly what i have done, however i highly recommend soldering instead of tape...!

 

[ampy]

Nearly exactly what i have done, however i highly recommend soldering instead of tape...!

Or blue point connectors

Tape and heat shrink definitely not recommended!

 

[QldKev]

Thanks to all the very helpful wiring diagrams I was able to set mine up, without electrocuting myself or burning the house down.
Have done a bit of 12v wiring before, but never any 240. I read a couple of threads and saved 3 different diagrams, and the penny dropped!
Active splits 3 ways, to 1, 6 and 8, then the heating and cooling side actives connect to 5 and 7 respectivley.
Neutral splits 3 ways, to 2, and to the two neutrals in the output side.
Earth splits to the 2 output earths.
Almost forgot to add the temperature probe in my excitement...
Hooked it all up running through a "safety switch", just for ... safety?
Tested with a radio and a glass of ice water.
All seems to be working fine.
I didn't use terminal blocks, I used nitto tape and heat shrink, and the whole thing is housed in a placcy box designed to house this sort of stuff and secured with screws. Cords are secured inside the box with zip-ties.

All up, cost me $26 for the controller (yes, I know they can be had much cheaper), IIRC about $7 for the boc, and $5.96 for 2 x 2m extension cords. $40 total!
Plan on doing at least one more. Will prob. use terminal blocks next time for neatness.
Better beer, here I come!

Now, this is why they made it illegal to do wiring yourself in Australia :blink:


QldKev

 

[Spork]

ampy and QldKev - Would you suggest I redo with terminal blocks instead of the tape and heat shrink?
What is likley to happen if I leave it "as is"?
The Blue point connectors 2 posts up - will they fit one wire in and 3 out, or would I need to "piggyback" 2 of them to split one wire 3 ways?

 

[barls]

the chance of the tape failing is fairly high which may end up possibly starting a fire.
do it right, do it once.

 

[Spork]

OK, guess I'll be redoing it when my blocks arrive from ebay. At least I know I have it wired properly, even if the joining technique is not ideal.
In my defense, it is outside, and it will always be running through a safety switch.
I did such a tidy job with the shrink wrap too...

@ barls - you say the chance of tape failing is high. Failing to what? Stick? ie, come undone - shrink wrap is over the tape, I don't think it will auto-unravel. Fail to insulate perhaps? I'm not trying to be a smart-arse, I just like to understand things fully.

As I stated earlier, I haven't worked with 240 before, but I have done some 12v wiring, including quite a bit on my boat. The marine environment is much harsher than my back patio, and I never had any connection failure or insulation failure with the tape and shrink wrap method then.

 

[spog]

try those crimp on joiners/connectors that fill the connector with gel to seal the join when sqeezed together with pliers.
got no idea what the trade name is,try bunnings.....cheers......spog......

 

[ampy]

ampy and QldKev - Would you suggest I redo with terminal blocks instead of the tape and heat shrink?
What is likley to happen if I leave it "as is"?
The Blue point connectors 2 posts up - will they fit one wire in and 3 out, or would I need to "piggyback" 2 of them to split one wire 3 ways?

Yes definitely re connect your wires, the blue point connectors will fit all your wire just strip the sheath back twist wire together with pliers put the blue point on and tighten the screw. Happy to send you some if ya pm me!

OK, guess I'll be redoing it when my blocks arrive from ebay. At least I know I have it wired properly, even if the joining technique is not ideal.
In my defense, it is outside, and it will always be running through a safety switch.
I did such a tidy job with the shrink wrap too... sad.gif

@ barls - you say the chance of tape failing is high. Failing to what? Stick? ie, come undone - shrink wrap is over the tape, I don't think it will auto-unravel. Fail to insulate perhaps? I'm not trying to be a smart-arse, I just like to understand things fully.

As I stated earlier, I haven't worked with 240 before, but I have done some 12v wiring, including quite a bit on my boat. The marine environment is much harsher than my back patio, and I never had any connection failure or insulation failure with the tape and shrink wrap method then.

For a start you shouldn't be "playing around" with 240V there is a reason why sparkies do a 4 year apprenticeship.
Tape will deteriorate after time when exposed to heat, cold and movement. and it will loose its "stick" heat shrink will do a pretty good job at holding the tape on, but its not the right way to go about it. Do yourself a favour and use one of the connection methods above.

Cheers
Ampy

 

[barls]

OK, guess I'll be redoing it when my blocks arrive from ebay. At least I know I have it wired properly, even if the joining technique is not ideal.
In my defense, it is outside, and it will always be running through a safety switch.
I did such a tidy job with the shrink wrap too...

@ barls - you say the chance of tape failing is high. Failing to what? Stick? ie, come undone - shrink wrap is over the tape, I don't think it will auto-unravel. Fail to insulate perhaps? I'm not trying to be a smart-arse, I just like to understand things fully.

As I stated earlier, I haven't worked with 240 before, but I have done some 12v wiring, including quite a bit on my boat. The marine environment is much harsher than my back patio, and I never had any connection failure or insulation failure with the tape and shrink wrap method then.

the glue fails over time and depending on conditions, this leads to the wire be coming exposed and leading to shorting.
i previously worked in the marine environ for the last 11 years, and i can tell you if i found what you did by one of those that worked with me id kick their arse so hard they would be the first person on the moon with out a rocket as it not only endangers people but also the equipment its done on. ive seen people zapped on other fittings ie guard rails because someone has taken a short cut on an upper deck power fitting, not pretty.
sure as a quick fix, ie to get something running while under pressure sure but not lasting more than 2 hours, for a permanent fitting no way in hell would i do it

if you cant solder or terminate correctly and do the job permanently, dont do it.
hell the big green shed has crimpers and crimps kits starting at about 30 bucks.

Seriously as others have said, there are standards for a reason. ive done my trade and touch wood never been zapped, id like to keep it that way.

 

[QldKev]

As all ready mentioned the glue will loose its stick over time. The other issue I have read is the twisting of wires to join then may not be a perfect conductor, hence the join will heat up resulting in the taps glue failing quicker and also the potential to melt through the insulation and cause a short/fire.

I'm not an electrician, but I was always told never twist together 240v wires. I would use either these
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD

or even better
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD

and where the cords go through the enclosure use these
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD


You can get ones that can handle higher than 10amp if there is a need.

QldKev

 

[Nevalicious]

ive done my trade and touch wood never been zapped, id like to keep it that way.

Really, I've done my trade and get zapped 3 to 4 times a year... At best... Keeps you on your toes :icon_cheers:

The equipment I work on contains alot of live parts and alot of the older stuff is 415v control wiring with live armatures on relays etc :blink:

Most of the equipment must be worked on live in order to diagnose problems and the like.

At OP, Blue Points FTW!

Nev

 

[barls]

worked on plenty of live gear just dont like pain and am very careful. actually have been called a wuss as ive refused to put my hand in one console live. the person that called me it put his hand in and got zapped. whose the smart one?

 

[gjn200]

Most of the equipment must be worked on live in order to diagnose problems and the like.



Nev

OoooH! Pretty sure that's against the law. All faults can be found with a multi meter and a megger. Working on live equipment, out of the ark that one.

 

[NickB]

Yep, I've refused to work on live gear before. It's a sackable offence in the company I work for (doesn't stop some of the more 'experienced' sparkies doing it though -_-

Cheers

 

[ampy]

OoooH! Pretty sure that's against the law. All faults can be found with a multi meter and a megger. Working on live equipment, out of the ark that one.

:icon_offtopic:
Its not against the law to work live, well not in Victoria anyway.

Extract from Code of Practice for Safe Electrical Work

WORKING ON LIVE ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
General - Rescheduling the work to a time when power can be isolated must be considered first.
Working on live electrical equipment must only be considered as a last resort and when an
adequate risk process has been undertaken. Suitable safety apparel must be worn and only tools
and equipment appropriate for the work to be carried out must be used.
(and it goes on)


In some Industries, like Power distribution and Industrial you have no choice but to work live.

Link for Code of Practice for Safe Electrical Work if anyone is interested.

http://www.esv.vic.gov.au/Portals/0/Electr...ctricalWork.pdf

 

[Nevalicious]

and Industrial you have no choice but to work live

Bingo! I work on elevators for a living. Most faults will only ever be diagnosed whilst the elevator is running....

Anywho, caution is always taken... **** dying for the company!

Massive :icon_offtopic:

All faults can be found with a multi meter and a megger.

If only this were true...

 

[Yob]

back to $20 free P&H

LINK

jumpin in for a spare

 

[Amber Fluid]

Go HERE Yob, they are still around $16.

Cheers