Stainless Braid Vs Copper Manifold

[mb83]

Hi Guys,

I'm trying to decide which type of manifold to build in my 24L rectangular esky.

I was thinking either a rectangular slotted copper manifold, but was wondering how stainless braid stacks up against slotted copper.

The cost of parts I'm missing for either manifold are about the same.

What do you guys think is better?

Michael

 

[NickB]

Hi,

I've only ever used the stainless braid, but from an ease of use perspective, it's a lot simpler than crafting a copper manifold (in my opinion anyway).

I get up to 85% efficiency in my 25L cheapo esky, so no complaints! Guess it all depends on your crush, as I find that it takes a fair bit of recirculation to get clear wort into the boiler with a fine/floury crush.

Just as an aside, I'm setting up a 50L SS vessel as a mash tun at the moment, and will employ a long braid in this as well.

Cheers

 

[mb83]

Thanks for your reply NickB.

How did you have the braid arranged?
Just a straight lenght, or something a bit more elaborate?

Cheers,

Michael

 

[Stuster]

I agree with NickB. Braid is easy, cheap and works well. I just have it in a straight line, no need for anything elaborate when batch sparging. If you plan to fly sparge you'll need something more complicated and possibly the manifold is easier in that case.

 

[Sammus]

i may as well throw a spanner in and go for the manifold - i tried braid and wasn't a fan of it, im pretty rough with it and mine got bent and kinked and as a result the braiding went funny and had big holes in it and stuff, and I only did one brew with it! If you use the braid you could try putting a piece of slotted copper down the guts of it to anchor it down, mine was pretty annoying floating to the top...

 

[NickB]

Thanks for your reply NickB.

How did you have the braid arranged?
Just a straight lenght, or something a bit more elaborate?

Cheers,

Michael

Yep, just straight in the Esky, end folded down. No problems with floating, or even much warping from bashing it with the mash paddle . For the Keg...er...SS vessel, I'm going a loop attached to a T-piece, and passing over the low point at the bottom.

As Stuster said, Batch sparging is fine, for Fly, you might need the manifold.

Cheers

 

[Enerjex]

i've used both, i found the braid worked perfectly well however the sparge slowed up quite a bit about half way through. the copper manifold drains it out very quickly, I actually had to slow its flow a bit at the risk of hsa. I personally like the copper better but this is just because I prefer how it doesn't have sharp barbs etc to deal with every time i dismantled my tun. Also the copper manifold is easy to clean without dismantling as you can just shoot the hose into it to flush it out (instant sprinkler! lol) Either way you'll be happy

 

[Screwtop]

Tried em all, slotted copper, drilled copper, Braid, drilled Poly Tube, and SS False Bottom. None had any noticable impact upon efficiency (which is why I tried them all). At present I have a slotted copper covered in braid, waiting for my mate to weld up (he must have plenty of beer) when he gets time. Don't expect any change efficiency wise, but do hope there will be less crud travelling via the pump than with the SS FB. Found that braid suffered a bit fom the mash paddle. Having said that, I know of a brewer who uses a length of PVC with lots of holes drilled in it, shoved inside a length of braid or termimesh, seems to support it well and prevent those dents from the mash paddle/stirrer.

Some food for thought there mb83.

Cheers,
Screwy

 

[mb83]

Thanks for your input everyone.

I've decided to go for the copper manifold.
While I only batch sparge at the moment, the manifold gives me more flexibility if I get fancy one day and want to fly sparge.

Cheers,

Michael

 

[warra48]

Thanks for your input everyone.

I've decided to go for the copper manifold.
While I only batch sparge at the moment, the manifold gives me more flexibility if I get fancy one day and want to fly sparge.

Cheers,

Michael

I went with a manifold, although I batch sparge. I wanted the flexibility to fly sparge in future if I wanted to try it. Mine stays in place when I slot the outlet into the drain hole, and it can't be dislodged at all by stirring the mash.

 

[Kleiny]

currently use copper manifold but was looking at going to a ss braid, if i keep changing my mind i might as well just go and get a ss bottom for my converted keg mash tun

 

[Guest Lurker]

Thanks for your input everyone.

I've decided to go for the copper manifold.
While I only batch sparge at the moment, the manifold gives me more flexibility if I get fancy one day and want to fly sparge.

Cheers,

Michael

Couple of suggestions for making a copper manifold if going that way.

If you put a T immediately inside the tun where the nipple comes through the wall, the manifold can fold up out of the base and makes it easy to clean the tun.

Dont bother soldering or anything, just push together and then give each join a tap with a hammer and screwdriver/centre punch to stop it coming apart.

 

[sama]

Couple of suggestions for making a copper manifold if going that way.

If you put a T immediately inside the tun where the nipple comes through the wall, the manifold can fold up out of the base and makes it easy to clean the tun.

Dont bother soldering or anything, just push together and then give each join a tap with a hammer and screwdriver/centre punch to stop it coming apart.

great idea the non soldering,are the fittings a tight enough fit without "crimping" with a hammer and screwdriver so ya can pull it all apart with some pliers after use and clean it thoroughly,i havent played with copper pipes and fittings,im a sparky and with pvc conduit,pipe and fittings lock together tightly without glue...." :icon_cheers:

 

[BenH]

great idea the non soldering,are the fittings a tight enough fit without "crimping" with a hammer and screwdriver so ya can pull it all apart with some pliers after use and clean it thoroughly,i havent played with copper pipes and fittings,im a sparky and with pvc conduit,pipe and fittings lock together tightly without glue...." :icon_cheers:

In my experience, you'll need to do something to keep the joins together. I just used a hole punch to create a small dent to hold everything in place.

Also, another tip: I've found that I need to have the slots facing downwards, otherwise the sparges tend to get very slow towards the end. And I have had a stuck sparge with the slots up. Turned the slots down, and get very quick runnings with no hint of stuck sparge.

 

[yardy]

great idea the non soldering,are the fittings a tight enough fit without "crimping" with a hammer and screwdriver so ya can pull it all apart with some pliers after use and clean it thoroughly,i havent played with copper pipes and fittings,im a sparky and with pvc conduit,pipe and fittings lock together tightly without glue...." :icon_cheers:

sama,

a few tips and pics here How to Make a Manifold

Cheers

Yard

 

[warra48]

I tried to use a centre punch on mine, but it didn't seem to hold securely. I then used some vicegrips to crimp the joins I wanted to secure. I only crimped the joins which hold the manifold widthwise. Longitudinally, the joins remain secure from being slotted into the outlet, and press fitted against the wall on the other side. This allows me to dissemble it if I want to.

 

[sama]

sama,

a few tips and pics here How to Make a Manifold

Cheers

Yard

THANKS YARDY

 

[Back Yard Brewer]

Don't expect any change efficiency wise, but do hope there will be less crud travelling via the pump than with the SS FB.



Cheers,
Screwy

I am still gathering information, and building my Ag system. I have installed a 10" SS FB . I am now starting to think about this crud you mentioned. I have a march pump that will be used and I would have thought if you circulate the wort until its clear the "crud" would not be a problem :unsure:

BYB

 

[Screwtop]

I am still gathering information, and building my Ag system. I have installed a 10" SS FB . I am now starting to think about this crud you mentioned. I have a march pump that will be used and I would have thought if you circulate the wort until its clear the "crud" would not be a problem :unsure:

BYB

Was worried about this myself, had made a copper clotted manifild and covered it with braid (to be sure, to be sure), but because my slack mate has not welded/brazed it up yet have continued on with the 10" SSFB. The crud is no problem, underlet to the MLT using the pump, give a very gentle stir then start to recirc, throttle back the MLT outlet valve to just a trickle. The flow clears in no time. The slotted copper braided all singing all dancing manifold will be in the spares box.

Screwy