Spunding Valve

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ridge runner

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I'm not sure if I am correct or not but I think that the grading might correlate to the percentage of the valves capacity. So 100 may be the absolute minimum or maximum setting and like everone is saying the only way to determine what pressure it is set to is to use a guage.
My understanding of the valve and its markings was its 0 to 100psi , so if but I wanted to use 10psi i just dual in 10 . if some are saying its not then so be it . Gauge it is .
 

brewgasm

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My understanding of the valve and its markings was its 0 to 100psi , so if but I wanted to use 10psi i just dual in 10 . if some are saying its not then so be it . Gauge it is .
I wouldn't use a spunding valve without a guage and it's just a good idea to know what pressure you have in your vessel anyway :)
 

ridge runner

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I wouldn't use a spunding valve without a guage and it's just a good idea to know what pressure you have in your vessel anyway :)
In the name of science I have emailed the manufacturer. After all its an industrial component designed for air compressors . Also the kegs are rates 130psi , so unless the pressure goes over 130psi it should be fine? Interested what they have to say really.
 

ridge runner

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I wouldn't use a spunding valve without a guage and it's just a good idea to know what pressure you have in your vessel anyway :)
In the name of science I have emailed the manufacturer. After all its an industrial component designed for air compressors . Also the kegs are rates 130psi , so unless the pressure goes over 130psi it should be fine? Interested what they have to say really.
 

brewgasm

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My understanding of the valve and its markings was its 0 to 100psi , so if but I wanted to use 10psi i just dual in 10 . if some are saying its not then so be it . Gauge it is .
I have found some online references to the scale being in psi. Accuracy varies wildly between valves depending on the position of the stick on guage and the variance between the internal spring from one valve to the next. Apparently they are easily modified with a softer spring to give a range of 0-30psi making it even more ideal for use in a spunding valve.

So the sticker is more or less only useful to indicate the position of the valve which is still quite handy
 

ridge runner

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I have found some online references to the scale being in psi. Accuracy varies wildly between valves depending on the position of the stick on guage and the variance between the internal spring from one valve to the next. Apparently they are easily modified with a softer spring to give a range of 0-30psi making it even more ideal for use in a spunding valve.

So the sticker is more or less only useful to indicate the position of the valve which is still quite handy
Hay thats interesting, any links ?
 

ridge runner

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I have found some online references to the scale being in psi. Accuracy varies wildly between valves depending on the position of the stick on guage and the variance between the internal spring from one valve to the next. Apparently they are easily modified with a softer spring to give a range of 0-30psi making it even more ideal for use in a spunding valve.

So the sticker is more or less only useful to indicate the position of the valve which is still quite handy
Had an email back from manufacturer , they said allow for +/- of 2 . So if you set it to the 10 marking on the unit it will be with 8 - 12 PSI range (does that fit with what people are finding when using it ?) .
They dont see any issue not using an PSI gauge if the tank is rated 130PSI . Just thought I'd let you know. Cheers .
 

ridge runner

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No, they are not that good, it is only a cheap valve, mine is on about 30 PSI for 10 PSI
Maybe we're talking about a different valve its not cheap , could have got 1 2/3 cheaper easy if I wanted a cheap one . You talking about the CR25-100 ?
 
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You must have missed our bulk buy of the CR25 PRV $4.66 USD each $5,77 AUD landed.
I believe they are made in India and possibly assembled in Fenton Missouri, you could go to the trouble of buying a load of different poppet springs and trying to find one that will deliver a better accuracy, but would it be worth it? To do this one would have to be certain that the gauge is accurate, far better to get a decent gauge and calibrate to the markings as suggested before.
https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/eoi-pressure-relief-valve.97671/
 

Maheel

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Hey RR you should just get yourself a gauge and set it up properly

these type of PRV are so low tech and cheap that you would not expect any real value from the sticker showing values on the side.

if it was to be used without some sort of gauge "properly" it would have to be certified and likely be more expensive.
 

Truman42

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Does anyone have the new KK spunding valve that only goes up to 15 PSi??? Whats the point of it??
 
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Does anyone have the new KK spunding valve that only goes up to 15 PSi??? Whats the point of it??
The question should be, whats the point of anything higher than 15 PSI. The idea is to carbonate the beer at the closing stages of fermentation. That's all the majority of craft beer tanks are rated at, simply no point in going higher.
 

Truman42

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The question should be, whats the point of anything higher than 15 PSI. The idea is to carbonate the beer at the closing stages of fermentation. That's all the majority of craft beer tanks are rated at, simply no point in going higher.
Ive read a few posts here and there where people are spunding at 20PSI and 20C but must admit i wasnt sure if this was the norm or an exception? So 15 PSI is the maximum you would normally do???
 
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Ive read a few posts here and there where people are spunding at 20PSI and 20C but must admit i wasnt sure if this was the norm or an exception? So 15 PSI is the maximum you would normally do???
I don't do it, but I do understand why those making AIPA's do it. A low pressure at the end of fermentation will help everything to settle out when cold crashing or just get enough co2 for serving.
I watched Proffesor Tron Nguyen using his single vessel system, mash, boil and ferment in one vessel. Pressure fermenting, 30 degrees C and 15 PSI for every beer he makes including stout, and he uses any type of yeast ready in 5 days, he made beer but not even a good beer.
 

Neil Buttriss

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I do 10psi, usually have the spunding valve open for the first 2 days then capture, or use an airlock for those days. If I get a vigorous ferment I will put some pressure on it though as this keeps it calm. I also use the captured C02 to go to the keg that I'm transferring into.
 

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