S-04 not performing as expected

[ash2]

I'm currently using S-04 for the third time. Each time I've said I wouldn't use it again as I've had to coerce it into dropping the last few points as per the OP by swirling, raising temps and once chucking more yeast at it when doing a k and k. Current batch a BIAB brown ale seems to have stalled at 1016 when I was expecting 1012. I'm swirling and bumping a degree a day and trying to remain patient. Fast ferment test is also handy. If you look at fermentis' own tips and tricks guide for their range it is an interesting read and surprise surprise, they recommend pitching more yeast for a stuck ferment.

Edit ad linky

Thanks for the link,good reading. :beer:

 

[Bizier]

To me it sounds like you have S04 behaving as I would expect. You need to manage your expectations downward to match the shitty yeast. Did I mention I don't like S04? I don't like S04 if I did fail to mention it. I know English yeasts and dry aren't really two concepts which marry well, but give me Nottingham any day of the week over S04.

 

[matho]

Jaypes,

1.025,

Are you correcting your refact reading or is it just what you read, alcohol will distort a refract reading making the reading higher than it is.

if you aren't correcting your reading and your OG was 1.043 then your beer is currently sitting at a FG of 1.013, considering that you have used over 15% crystal and roast and you mashed at 66 deg I would say it is done.

cheers steve

 

[gruntre69]

This is not my experience when using this yeast.
Like I said before, I have only had a problem when I pitch warm and then slowly cooled it over a day or 2.

I have found that fermenting this yeast below 18C is nice and clean. Anything above this starts to get fruity (particularly if it is 20C or over).

If you do not have good temperature control I would not recommend this yeast. How ever if you do, it can be fantastic. Never had a yeast that flocculates as well and makes a very clear beer without having to do anything special.
I would bet that most people that have had problems with stuck fermentations have either pitch warm and the let it cool or have relatively poor temperature control and have dips at night time.

RB

I used it for the 1st time and I am a new brewer. It was recommended by the brew shop guy for making a tooweys old copy. I pitched it at 24 with 1037 and it dropped to 18 overnight. The fermentation was very slow and I couldn't get it to finish any lower than 1014.... I tried temp changing but not agitating. The beer actually tastes OK but I assume the alc % would be quite low.

I want to do this recipe again now but am gun shy on this yeast now...

S-04 will usually 'stall' around 1.020. So taking that into account is it really stalling? That is what s-04 does, if you pester it with rousing and a temp rise you can persuade it to finish lower but it's a high flocking yeast.

If you really wanted the beer to finish dry, I wouldn't recommend s-04. Maybe if you pitched more and oxygenated a bit higher, but I would just go with something else.

I don't particularly like dry beer much. does this mean if the FG is higher the beer will be less dry? Does this also mean that a less dry finish will be a lower alcohol beer??? Slightly confused.. :unsure:

 

[GalBrew]

I don't particularly like dry beer much. does this mean if the FG is higher the beer will be less dry? Does this also mean that a less dry finish will be a lower alcohol beer??? Slightly confused..

A beer with higher FG will have less alcohol than a beer with a lower FG fermented from wort with the same OG. A higher FG however does not necessarily mean the beer will be less dry. I generally will result in a beer with a 'fuller' mouthfeel, however the full effects of a higher FG a dependent on the sugar composition of the wort. Was it higher in unfermentable dextrins? Was it a highly fermentable wort comprised of more simple sugars from a lower mash temp? These factors (and others) all play a part.

 

[Pickaxe]

Asi have just acquired a refractometer, and see the op to be quite relevant, as I tried to take my first fg with it today and thought I'd made an error, what do you his mean by a refractometer adjustment?
I have a brix to fg converter, but am confused by the reading. I'm missing something, that op is too. I have og reading per hydrometer. ?

Got a verified og today via refractometer but don't know how to use it for fg.

Any help there?

 

[Pickaxe]

Just want to clarify the reasoning/logic/understanding behind it.

 

[Markbeer]

if you google "refractometer calculator" you should find a link to various calculators that will calculate a corrected fg for you using a refractometer.

once beer has fermented or started to the refractometer needs the reading needs adjusting.

Asi have just acquired a refractometer, and see the op to be quite relevant, as I tried to take my first fg with it today and thought I'd made an error, what do you his mean by a refractometer adjustment?
I have a brix to fg converter, but am confused by the reading. I'm missing something, that op is too. I have og reading per hydrometer. ?

Got a verified og today via refractometer but don't know how to use it for fg.

Any help there?

 

[Byran]

Just used S04 for the first time in an English bitter.
Fermented at 18 deg. Swirled the fermenter each afternoon only.
Went from refractometer 1.046 to 1.024 in 3 days and dropped clear. Beersmiths refractometer adjuster reckons its at 1.011 and is finished.
In 3 days. Thats fast. And it tastes dry and very interesting. I love it.
Although I have used Styrian Goldings which I have never tasted before so it could just be that flavour that I love.
I think ill keg it now and drink it.