Rims Or Herms

[jbirbeck]

They don't have a RIMS unit you can order off the shelf - they probably don't even know what that is - it's all custom built to your specification. Having said that a RIMS unit is really simple - just a tube with space for an element and a few inlets/outlets. It was really easy to get the thing built since I based my design off what Rooting kings just had made by them - but adjusted the length and removed once of the outlets. I just sent them a photo (see below) of his unit with my alterations - basically to suit the length of my element. US140 delivered to my door.

View attachment 43267

What was delivered
View attachment 43268

After some insulation - the thermometer goes into the top
View attachment 43269

yep made to order. I wanted the extra BSP on there so I didn't need to buy a T piece. The 1 inch was for the element, and the three 1/2 inch were for the therm goingin into a compression fitting and the in and out. the in and out are the ones on the side for me.

I really like the way it works. I find it easy to clean. It gets a PBW run after the mash and Every couple of brews I'll remove the element for a good scrub and rinse out/brush out the inside of the tube. The standard bottle brush for wine bottles/long necks does it well. The element I picked up from a local place..I'll have to check where though. I have camlocks on the in and out.

 

[raven19]

I guess the other thing i need to consider about the upgrade is how many amps total im going to need to draw to run the thing. from my calculations a 2.5KW element draws 10 amps. I have a 15 amp outlet where i brew but doesnt leave me much to play with especially if i have to run two elements, march pump, and controller.

When you drop around to check out my system you can see how much power I draw when running, but essentially I have:
HLT - 10A
RIMS - 10A
Pump - minimal (0.3A - I have been told by others iirc, not sure on this figure though!)
Control Panel - minimal also
(Kettle - 10A & 15A immersion elements)

With the above I can get by easily with 2 standard power points up until the the boil.

I need a 10A and a 15A when getting the wort up to the boil.

Once I get a rolling boil though I tend to only use the 15A element in the kettle, everything else is switched off.

(I can also run the RIMS on a second batch whilst boiling the first with a 3rd 10A power source - if I am doing back to back brews).

 

[MeLoveBeer]

With the above I can get by easily with 2 standard power points up until the the boil.

So is that 2 standard power points on 2 different 16A circuits Raven? I'm in the midst of organising a sparky to come in and rewire my shed to support my new system and are curious to see how much you can squeeze in.

 

[raven19]

My shed has a normal 10A feed throughout plus a separate 15A welding point, all with safety switches etc. It has not tripped the fuses once, been very happy with it. So yes I am certain it is 2 different circuits - forgive my ignorance though as I am not a sparky!

If I need a 3rd supply it comes from the house via extension cord (on a separate circuit again).

 

[MeLoveBeer]

My shed has a normal 10A feed throughout plus a separate 15A welding point, all with safety switches etc. It has not tripped the fuses once, been very happy with it. So yes I am certain it is 2 different circuits - forgive my ignorance though as I am not a sparky!

If I need a 3rd supply it comes from the house via extension cord (on a separate circuit again).

Thanks Raven. I think I'll end up getting two 16A circuits allocated for the shed with two 15A points put in close to my brew rig. I'm pretty keen to do back to back brews (and my design supports it), but I'm lucky in that my boiler is gas.

 

[jackson]

I'm new to AG and currently do Biab in an urn I have been running out of beer just too often. So its time to move to double batches, I could just go with a 70-80 l pot for Biab but then with the big pot and an urn I thought why not keep going to rims or herms. So if I were to use a keg as a mash tun is there any issue with installing a 2400w concealed crown element in the keg instead of using a RIMS tube.

 

[Thirsty Boy]

You could maybe do it... False bottom over the top of an element, any element really because you need the falsie over it anyway, and then recirculate from under the falsie.... Pretty much like a Brutus 10 style system but with an electric element instead of a gas burner. In either case you have to recirculate.

Sound simpler than a rinms tube? - you could make it happen, but as i said in an earlier post, these things are homebrew solutions for homebrewers, and i think the reason that people dont do it the way you are suggesting, is because its probably easier and more effective to go with a rims or herms - if your idea was easier, it would be the standard. But, maybe people just haven't caught up yet. Wouldn't be the first time.

You could certainly make it work if thats the way you really want to go. I'd do some googling of Brutus 10 - thats the sort of thing i think you mean. I think there are even a few people out there who have made electric ones. You could also do much the same thing by having the pot sit on top of a perfectly normal electric stove type element... No need for any instalation then, you just bung a stock standard mash tun ontop of an element, add a pump and a controller.... And away you go. If it doesn't work.. Use the hotplate as a side plate for your BBQ and go back to plan A.

 

[unrealeous]

yep made to order. I wanted the extra BSP on there so I didn't need to buy a T piece.

Yours definitely looks pretty than mine

 

[jackson]

You could maybe do it... False bottom over the top of an element, any element really because you need the falsie over it anyway, and then recirculate from under the falsie.... Pretty much like a Brutus 10 style system but with an electric element instead of a gas burner. In either case you have to recirculate.

Sound simpler than a rinms tube? - you could make it happen, but as i said in an earlier post, these things are homebrew solutions for homebrewers, and i think the reason that people dont do it the way you are suggesting, is because its probably easier and more effective to go with a rims or herms - if your idea was easier, it would be the standard. But, maybe people just haven't caught up yet. Wouldn't be the first time.

You could certainly make it work if thats the way you really want to go. I'd do some googling of Brutus 10 - thats the sort of thing i think you mean. I think there are even a few people out there who have made electric ones. You could also do much the same thing by having the pot sit on top of a perfectly normal electric stove type element... No need for any instalation then, you just bung a stock standard mash tun ontop of an element, add a pump and a controller.... And away you go. If it doesn't work.. Use the hotplate as a side plate for your BBQ and go back to plan A.

Thanks Thristy Boy, I could not see any reason why it would not work so I made a start.

 

[Thirsty Boy]

Snappy.

Tell you what, that looks the goods to me - put a stock standard domed false bottom over that, add a march pump and a PID and i think you're on a winner. I hereby withdraw any prervious scepticism - i reckon that might be an absolute cracker of an idea.

Top work.

TB

 

[hockadays]

This looks good. Keen to see how you go. What seals the element into the bottom of the keg?

 

[jackson]

This looks good. Keen to see how you go. What seals the element into the bottom of the keg?

The crown element comes standard with the seal and a boil dry switch for $60

 

[jackson]

Snappy.

Tell you what, that looks the goods to me - put a stock standard domed false bottom over that, add a march pump and a PID and i think you're on a winner. I hereby withdraw any prervious scepticism - i reckon that might be an absolute cracker of an idea.

Top work.

TB

Cheers Thristy Boy, PID & Pump ordered

 

[hockadays]

When do you plan on using this? Please note down ramp times etc with volumes. I was just thinking about doing the same to get rid of my herms. The herms works well and I pretty much had a worry free brew day today but I think you could get better ramp times with this system. Maybe I'll use both. Keep the reports coming.

 

[Thirsty Boy]

Did you buy the element from crown themselves?? I like this so much i might build one just for the hell of it, i've got all the bits but the element anyway.

 

[mschippr]

Ok, so back to my original thread.

I decided to go RIMS with a semi automation system upgrade which includes two new 50L vessels (HLT and Kettle). My existing kettle is being reassigned as MLT because my Beerbelly false bottom fits in it nicely.

I've ordered 2x 2500W elements, a tri clover RIMS tube and some sensors ready for the Brewtroller ill order a bit later which should be about $120. I still need to order my valves, weldless bulkheads, camlocks, etc which i will do in the middle of the week which should be about $200 also.

I am using a US mail forwarding company since im ordering from four US companies and getting them all consolidated for AU delivery.

I'll need to probably build a new stand also from galv i have laying around; Fun times. Im selling random stuff on ebay (non brewing related) to finance my project.

 

[mxd]

keep the build photo's coming.

Ok, so back to my original thread.

I decided to go RIMS with a semi automation system upgrade which includes two new 50L vessels (HLT and Kettle). My existing kettle is being reassigned as MLT because my Beerbelly false bottom fits in it nicely.

I've ordered 2x 2500W elements, a tri clover RIMS tube and some sensors ready for the Brewtroller ill order a bit later which should be about $120. I still need to order my valves, weldless bulkheads, camlocks, etc which i will do in the middle of the week which should be about $200 also.

I am using a US mail forwarding company since im ordering from four US companies and getting them all consolidated for AU delivery.

I'll need to probably build a new stand also from galv i have laying around; Fun times. Im selling random stuff on ebay (non brewing related) to finance my project.

 

[Amin]

How automated will it be?

 

[mschippr]

I'm only thinking basic automation and monitoring at this stage, im still reading up on the brewtroller features. At the moment i would be happy with timer based startup of the HLT, auto temp and control of the pump/RIMS tube, and HLT. Technically brewtroller can automate the entire mash process but that requires presure sensors and solanoid valves, not really in my scope at this stage but can be added later if i choose.

My HLT will be electric, MLT/RIMS will be electric, and my Kettle is gas. I'm trying to keep everything 100% stainless if i can.

Thanks.

 

[mschippr]

I've created a new thread on my build which is http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=730967