Racking

[dbod]

Another twist on a popular thread theme, can't see it answered directly though so here goes:

^(Background)
I use Muntons English Bitter Kit + All Malt (PME) + some flavouring/bittering hops + a little Crystal Grain (for body) + Safale S04 to make English style bitter. So far so good.

Originally I used Carbonation Drops = far too fizzy. Have now started Bulk Priming, really impressed with the result, just right for a Bitter, from memory was 90g Dextrose for 22L batch. (would need to check my recipes book i keep on that figure)


^(Plan)
Anyway, I do find the finished article has a bit too much of a 'yeasty' taste still in there. I'm thinking it could be from letting the brew sit on the yeastcake for a 1-2 week total ferment. The Safale S04 yeast cake is a real beast down there in the bottom. Or it is related to secondary fermentation.

I'm going to test Racking to Secondary after the peak of the ferment (say approx 3 days) to see if it helps. Will just use a tube from Primary Tap into Secondary and fill it up. Then leave for another week at least to allow secondary fermentation to complete before Bulk Priming.

^(Question)
So my questions are -
1. When is a good time to rack to Secondary for this brew?
2. Do I need to add anything at this stage? (to protect from oxygen)
3. Will it be OK to bulk prime as normal after a week or two?


Thanks for your help, apologies if this is long-winded, just trying to be clear and my brewing language sometimes fails me still as a relative newcomer to the sport.

Cheers :icon_cheers:

 

[buttersd70]

There are a couple of usages for the word 'secondary'. Many people on here use it for a second vessel, in which the beer is cold conditioned, and rack into this once fermentation is fully complete. The more correct usage of the term entails racking before fermentation is fully complete, and maintaining it at fermentation temperatures, hence 'secondary fermentation'. The timing for this depends on the yeast, and how quickly it chews through the wort, but basically, racking for secondary fermentation should be done when sg has about 2-4 (ish) degrees left to ferment. For SO4, after 3 days sounds about right (ish).

Racking to secondary fermentation doesn't require any additives at that point...as fermentation is not fully complete, CO2 is still being produced, so it will form it's own CO2 blanket. Further to that, as it is still in co2 production stage, the beer will be saturated with co2, and some of this will knock out of suspension during the transfer, helping to form the co2 blanket. Care sould be taken to minimise splashing and oxygenation during the transfer.

When secondary is complete, there is ample yeast to allow for clean up of biproducts, but it is off the trub. the beer can be crash chilled to clear....finings can then be added if you wish. You would then rack again to bulk prime as normal.

 

[seemax]

My process for ales is ...

Fully ferment in primary and settle (7-10 days)

Rack to secondary and add finings and wait 2-3 days for settling (optionally cold condition for a week or two). Sometimes I don't bother, depending how clear I want the beer. Often the difference in flavour is marginal, and personally cloudy beer is not a problem for me.

Rack to bulk priming vessel (try not to rouse the yeast).

 

[Bribie G]

Seeing as you are paying fairly big dollars for the Munton kit & bits to start off with I would certainly go the whole hog with pampering and massaging the brew: I do basically what Butters suggests above, and the use of finings will drop out nearly all the yeast, but you'll still have enough live cells to carbonate the beer later. A good method of secondary that I use personally is:

• Ferment in a 30 L to give plenty of head room for top fermenting yeasts such as S 04
• After 4 or 5 days or thereabouts (talking ale here) transfer to smaller 25 L fermenter, thus small headspace.
• Good method is to get a tube that fits outside the tap of the 30L and long enough to loop round bottom of 25 L to give smooth whirlpool with no splashing
• Crash chill when fermentation complete then use gelatine finings.
• After another 2 or 3 days cold, use Polyclar (this is up to you)
• Raise to room temp and bottle.

The only real hassle is an extra cleanup or two but you'll get that down to an art :icon_cheers:

Edit: I find that the best results have been when I plan a strict time shedule for chilling, gelatine, polyclar and bottling, then get caught up with something, do an extra shift at work, etc etc and before I know it the bloody thing has been wasting space in the fridge for an extra five or ten days just clearing itself out. How dare it

 

[dbod]

Thanks a lot for the feedback all. Plenty to think over there. Had never considered using Finings, am keen to keep things as 'natural' as possible. I don't mind cloudy beer but if it helps eliminate that yeastiness I mentioned I might rethink.

For now I will try 30L > 23L bucket after 3 days to allow secondary fermentation, wait a week, then bulk prime back into my primary fermenter. Unfortunately I don't have any crash chilling options available currently.

I'll see if this ups the bar on quality then consider finings etc.. although I might try looking at partial mash ideas before this route.


When I drink it, it's amazing how different the taste is direct from the fridge (bloody average) compared to cellar temperature (massively improved). Glad I let it warm and tried it, would have thought it was bloody awful if I hadn't when it's already distinctly above average.

Anyway, cheers, I'm about ready to lose my racking cherry. :wub:

 

[flattop]

I used Isinglass for my first few brews, they were crystal clear but still a bit yeasty so not sure if it will help, then again i was using kit yeast.
Last couple of brews i haven't used any, waiting to see the difference.

 

[buttersd70]

A decent yeast makes a world of difference.

 

[flattop]

Switched to US-05 waiting to bottle the results, but even switching brands of kits helped.

 

[The Big Burper]

Hello dere,

Regarding oxidation when racking, I read a book written by an Aussie scientist who was also a home brewer, and he reckons to add a teaspoon of ascorbic acid when transferring beer as it is an anti-oxidant (which it is).

Never tried it, never heard of it outside this book.

Anybody have any opinion on this?

cheers
The B.B. ("You know what I like")