g,day all . just have a question as i am just working this all out . i have a cooper pale ale in the fermenter which i added 250g LDM 250g maltodextrin and
500g dextrose. used the kit yeast well it is just about ready to bottle . so i am thinking about bulk priming for the 1st time (i have so many different size bottles) just wondering if this will work . i have 2 fermenters one with the brew and a empty one .so i am thinking would it be ok to transfer the brew in to the empty one ( with a plastic hose) give it a hour bulk. prime it .then bottle it . ?????????? also for the bulk priming i want a medium to high carbonation
i read somewhere 180 grams dextrose to 23L brew .does this sound right . thanks guys just don't want to end up making Vegemite
I have started to do bulk priming recently and started with the tap-to-tap hose
connection method (with the transfer from-container sitting on a table above the
transfer to-container on the floor) and found that halfway through the transfer,
the speed gets slowed down to a trickle.
I suspect this is due to the little anti-sediment spout fitting that comes with the
Coopers starter kit I got (fits on the inside end of the tap inside the fermenter)
which has a very narrow opening.
Don't know if you have this also but I think I'm going to leave this spout out in my
next batch since I let my brew condition a little in the second fermenter tub in the
fridge before actually priming and bottling so some sediment getting through wont
be a problem as it will settle soon enough. Cant really remove this spout after
starting a ferment - i.e. don't stick your arm into the brew to remove the spout
Anyway, as long as you are reasonably gentle with handling the first fermenter,
the sediment probably wont get stirred up very much. Of course, I also soaked the
second fermenter and hose (12mm food grade from Clark Rubber here in Adelaide
which fits around the tap spout quite well) in Sodium Percarbonate (e.g. Coopers'
Sanitiser) solution overnight and then sterilized both by sloshing with Phosporic
acid (diluted as per instructions and this does not require rinsing).
As for priming calculator, AHB's Bulk Priming (which you ought to have a look at)
page:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...;showarticle=79
has a link to a calculator which is geared for Aussies (using Centigrade, grams, etc)
which eventually goes to:
http://www.aussiehomebrewing.com/AlcoholCh...Calculator.html
One thing to note is knowing what temperature your brew has been exposed towards
the end of the ferment as the temperature affects how much CO2 is retained by the
brew (hotter means more CO2 will be driven out) and this affects how much priming
sugar to put in. If the brew already has a lot of CO2 in it, then adding a moderate
amount of sugar could push the carbonation too high (and make bottle bombs if you're
using glass bottles).
It seems the main factors with the priming calculators is the brew exposed temperature,
the volume you're priming and level of CO2 you're aiming for.
To save having to look at a calculator each time, I've created a priming text file with
tables with all the numbers (which I have attached) by running the calculator through
the different "Desired CO2 levels", brew temp.s, volumes, etc. NOTE this is a draft
and anyone please feel to comment on any errors/issues.
The priming file also lists the carbonation levels of various styles beers and you'll
notice the highest "Desired CO2 levels" are around the 3 mark. For safety, it might
be wise to start around this mark and adjust for future brews (likely to be plenty
).
Since there are many variables that can have an effect, it might be safest to start
conservatively.
Cheers,
Tom.
View attachment Priming.txt
