Povo AIPA

[Jazzman]

Hi blokes,
I want to brew up a half batch cheapo AIPA. I'm thinking 1 can of coopers green and 12 gm of cascade in a 10min boil. Maybe make 10or 11 litres.
Coopers green isn't very bitter I find, so it'd have double bitterness from the can and just flavour from the cascade.
Or maybe the draught as its not so bitter?

Is this a good or stupid idea?
Thanks
Brad.

 

[Jazzman]

Povo APIA it should read. Fat texting fingrrs.

 

[wereprawn]

Got more hops than that to chuck in? I'd put a heap in at 0 min if you can.

 

[rossbaker]

Yep, I'd up the hops if possible. Maybe an earlier addition? At that volume you'll only get to about 50 IBUs. This website lists the IBUs for that style at 70 which is quite a jump:

http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/01/24/beer-styles-ibu-chart-graph-bitterness-range/

 

[paulyman]

With just a coopers can even at 10L you will come in slightly below the accepted lowest OG for the style according to the Kits and Extract spreadsheet (about 1.052 as opposed to 1.056), but the hops you are adding will give you the right ball park for BU:GU (Bitterness to Gravity). So you should come out with something like a session IPA of sorts, or a decent APA if we ignore the marketing term.

I'd be looking at dry hopping to get some aroma though.

 

[rossbaker]

I'd be looking at dry hopping to get some aroma though.

+1

 

[Jazzman]

You Blokes are awesome!
Thanks for the tips.
I'm going to the shop tomorrow, so I'll by more cascade.
Actually, the cascade doesn't have to be the only hop. I'm just trying to keep it simple.
Should I try another hop as well?
I find I can drink most beers (strange, l know), but just wanted to have a go at cheap and cheerful coz I have 20 or so Grolsch bottles around that aren't pulling their weight !

So, won't the fact I'm using 1 can in half the water double my, presumably, POR hops?
I was getting worried I might overdo the bitterness.

 

[Jazzman]

Paulyman,
thanks, it's just sinking in what you've said.

 

[paulyman]

No probs.

I'm still a newbie as well, the spreadsheet helped me out big time when I was brewing kits and extract.

Just did an APA with cascade and chinook that is awesome. So dry hopping with those two or Columbus would be great.

 

[Jazzman]

Thanks mate!

 

[Jazzman]

So it's not gonna be totally povo.
I got my coopers green tin and a tin of light malt. I'll add a third of that to bring up the OG a bit.
I have 15gm of cascade which I think I'll dry hop halfway through the ferment. (They didn't have much in hops at the shop today. I was gonna get some centennial also).
What do you think fellas?
I haven't made it yet, so open to suggestions.

 

[paulyman]

Should be a good brew, most people on here talk about dry hopping in g/L. So the 15g would put you at 1.5g/L in a 10L brew. To put it in perspective the IPA I'm currently dry hopping has 6g/L. I haven't actually dry hopped to this extreme before usually I aim for around 3 or 4 g/L. All depends on how much of a hop head you are I suppose.

 

[Jazzman]

ah, l see, might have to get more. didn't realise just how much hops are in these beers.
time to bulk buy, I think!

 

[Jazzman]

Oh, and how much yeast should I use? whole packet or half?

 

[Jazzman]

So I got it in last night about 9pm. Used about 3/4 of the yeast. Bubbling away nicely this morning.
Now, when to put the hops in?
My brews usually finish in about 3 or 4 days.
So 2 days in?

 

[paulyman]

Now for the hard bit, patience. Primary fermentation may finish up that quick but if anything wasn't quite right during the first few days then you may get off flavours. Let the brew sit for at least a few days up to a week afterwards to give the yeast a chance to finish up and clean up after themselves. It is during this time you can dry hop as well, too early and the CO2 being produced will just take all those lovely aromas with it.

 

[Yob]

Oh, and how much yeast should I use? whole packet or half?

really depends on your gravity and volume mate.. check out this link HERE

play on the settings tab to get to metric, play on the dry tab for volume and gravity and hit calculate.

 

[Yob]

So I got it in last night about 9pm. Used about 3/4 of the yeast. Bubbling away nicely this morning.
Now, when to put the hops in?
My brews usually finish in about 3 or 4 days.
So 2 days in?

the later the better, within about 2 points of target FGis my rule of thumb.. that and/or during cold conditioning

 

[Jazzman]

Ummm, well..... I didn't take any OG measurements. I never do. I just check it's on the black line (of the hydrometer) for a few days then I reckon its done. I will have to start being more thorough.
No probs so far, but very un sciency I know!
When I brewed 25 years ago i didn't even have an hydrometer and even with 90 long necks in rotation never any problems, so I need to get up to speed, especially when experimenting.
The last batch I made I chucked the loose hops into the fermenter. It smelt fantastic coming out of the S valve, but I must have lost some flavour.
So, where I'm at is this. I'm loath to open the fermenter when its finished fermenting. My idea was to open it when its nearly done so the ferment can extract some resins, but more importantly the CO2 can expel the oxygen and keep it clean in there. I'm just not comfortable opening it up and then closing it and leaving it for a week or so.
Is this reasonable?

And thanks Yob and Pauly for your help and patience explaining all this

 

[Jazzman]

Ok, I just put 15gm of Cascade pellets in. I put them in 3 tea bags with some marbles to weigh them down, all sterile of course. They still floated. Oh well.
Gave it a bit of a stir to get things moving and she's gassing slowly. (It was before I put the pellets in)
So, I'll leave this one alone for a good week after ferment stops to gather all those hop juices, then bottle.
Sound ok?