Planning To Do My First Ags This Weekend - Biab Style

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Good on you folks having a chop at Stovetop BAIB of late, seems very popular all of a sudden! :icon_cheers:

Rosscoe, one option for that additional extract is to add it to the fermenter, so long as you're happy that it is sanitary (usually it is, that's no different from a kit). Doing so will eliminate losses of LME to trub, its only a very small proportion however it may be worthwhile if you have a lot of trub or an unusually high trub loss.
I always think of doing that 'partial mash' method as an excellent way to trick up a can of extract! Usually the results will be very worthwhile, so it is not really cheating at all. The 20L Stovetop Lager thread of NickJD's shows you how to get much more out of the 19L pot without using extract, I use a very similar method and that same pot to do all- grain 23L batches every weekend (MaxiBIAB- link below), but occasionally I do a partial just like yours.

Thanks Mate,

I appreciate the feedback. I wasn't really sure exaclty when to add the LME, but figured I shouldn't add it early in the boil or I'd lose too much, but I hadn't thought of losing it to trub. I'll give it a go straight into the fermenter next time and see if there is any improvement in efficiency.

Cheers,

Rosscoe
 
I also did my first BIAB all grain yesterday.

Did a pilsner and heated water to 69 degrees as per brewmate (which i thought sounded a bit low)

I missed my strike temp slightly and ended up at 64.5. Also lost a bit more in the boil than brewmate calculated and end up with about 20L with 1060 SG. I was using a keggle & 4 burner, was possible boiling it a bit hard

Did a no chill and put it in the fementer this afternoon. Lets see if this all grain stuff is as good as you all say :icon_cheers:
 
Nice work Aces - you 'll find after a few BIAB's that you can fine tune the software settings (evap rate etc etc) and get really close. Yes it is as good as they all say......
Cheers
BBB
 
Nice work Aces - you 'll find after a few BIAB's that you can fine tune the software settings (evap rate etc etc) and get really close. Yes it is as good as they all say......
Cheers
BBB

yeah will try fine tuning it a bit next time - cheers bada bing

Having said that, I gotta give a big thumbs up for the guys that put brewmate together. Nice easy to use software
 
yeah will try fine tuning it a bit next time - cheers bada bing

Having said that, I gotta give a big thumbs up for the guys that put brewmate together. Nice easy to use software


+1 on Brewmate. Very handy.
 
Sodium bicarbonate.

None of those are sodium metabisulphite.

I wouldn't recommend using sulphites unless you know for sure that you have chloramine but I do have a hatred and a sensitivity to them. You may find you don't. How do you react to most commercial red wines and ciders?

I usually end up quite silly & dance on the table :lol: ... ehm oh... no that's not what you where asking ... no reaction to sulphites in wines that I know of, so I guess I'd be pretty safe using it if I determine that chloramine is the problem.

Either way, don't worry too much Rob. It's all learning experience. ...

Yes that is the way I am seeing it ... that and glad I did two brews as the other one should turn out just nicely
 
Just checked the fermenters under the house - both showing healthy signs of fermentation with some krausen forming on the top of both. Small alcohol thermometer is reading 13c which is a bit low for US-05, while the strip on the side is reading 18c ... would I be right in figuring the activity in the wort is going to prop it up a couple of degrees compared to the external temperature?
 
Just checked the fermenters under the house - both showing healthy signs of fermentation with some krausen forming on the top of both. Small alcohol thermometer is reading 13c which is a bit low for US-05, while the strip on the side is reading 18c ... would I be right in figuring the activity in the wort is going to prop it up a couple of degrees compared to the external temperature?


Yeah mate, there is usually a couple of degrees produced during fermentation. I'd stick to the strip on the side of the fermenter and forget the thermometer. I have two fermenters side by side under the house at the moment. One is cookin up some beer and reading 12deg, while the other is just full of water (haven't finished cleaning it properly yet after bottling on the weekend) which is reading 10deg. The temp of the beer is what's important.

I sometimes brew with an ale yeast in the cold temps, and I don't own a heat pad. I normally just pitch S33 at about 22deg, then wrap the fermenter in a thick blanket and find that the fermentation, with the insulation added, keeps it above 15deg until the yeast has done its job, when it will naturally cool off. Once its reading something close to room temp, I know its probably at FG.

Cheers,
Rosscoe
 
Just checked the fermenters under the house - both showing healthy signs of fermentation with some krausen forming on the top of both. Small alcohol thermometer is reading 13c which is a bit low for US-05, while the strip on the side is reading 18c ... would I be right in figuring the activity in the wort is going to prop it up a couple of degrees compared to the external temperature?
The thing you have to watch out for is when fermentation slows down, heat production slows down as well. When the beer drops to ambient and it's too cold, the yeast will want to go into hibernation before they finish cleaning up some of the bad fermentation byproducts.
 
I'd stick to the strip on the side of the fermenter and forget the thermometer


Seriously?????

If there's one piece of equipment that is the most inaccurate it would have to be the stick on thermometer strips. Fucken useless.

The only other thing that comes close in uselessness is the airlock.

I fail to see how a strip thermometer that show two or three different temperature "ranges" can be as accurate as a decent thermometer...

Some brewers want a lot of control and a high degree of precision over ferment temps, others don't.
 
RobH, sodium metabisulphite is the Brigalow and Coopers sanitiser which comes in powdered form, the smelly sulphurous stuff which needs to be rinsed off afterwards

isn't the current coopers stuff sodium percarbonate?

once added to water SP turns into peroxide (water + oxygen) along with remnants of oxygenated organic matter (looks like sediment)

no need to bother with any vigorous washing regime, other than a quick rinse to get the oxidised matter out, and follow with a spray of starsan (maybe)

i find it far more effective to use water straight out of a boiled kettle when mixing the SP powder

mind you, this is all from personal & google research - can anyone confirm?


kymba
 
I'm not entirely sure kymba, going from memory, but the Brigalow stuff is 100% sodium metabisulphite- I have some here.
I'd recommend sodium percarbonate as a cleanser as well, even though it is a decent sanitiser in its own right. Soak, rinse, sanitise- pretty straight forward, no trouble with infection around here. I have a bucket which takes the weekly leftover perc, throw in taps, bottles and bottling fittings (not any more!), transfer hose, just about anything and it all comes out spotless a few days later.

I recall seeing that 60-odd degrees is required to liberate the H2O2 with perc, or am I speaking out of my *rse? Could the chemists in the house clarify please?
 
Seriously?????

If there's one piece of equipment that is the most inaccurate it would have to be the stick on thermometer strips. Fucken useless.

The only other thing that comes close in uselessness is the airlock.

I fail to see how a strip thermometer that show two or three different temperature "ranges" can be as accurate as a decent thermometer...

Some brewers want a lot of control and a high degree of precision over ferment temps, others don't.

Mate, unless you're dunking your thermometer in your brew, it won't give you any kind of acurate reading. You need to know what temp your beer is, not what the bloody air is outside your fermenter. So unless you've got a probe thermometer in your beer, then I'd say your temp readings are "Fucken useless"...

I've found them pretty close actually. I've got two on fermenters and when they aren't "fermenting" they both read exactly the same temp as my good mercury thermo.
 
Many discussions have been had and many tests have shown, (have a search here and listen to a brewing network podcast on the subject) that when using a thermometer (thermostat controller probe, not a stick on strip) attached to the outside of the fermenter insulated to the ambient air, the thermometer shows nearly identical to a probe submersed in the wort itself... i.e within +-0.1C.

The problem with the stick on strips is they display a range of temps (the ones I have show +-3C) and there's no certainty that it's measuring the fermenter and not the ambient. With such a range and no assurance of what it's measuring... In my opinion they are useless in our application.
 
Anyway - end of day report...

The DRSmurtos GA went well & was spot on with an OG of 1.040
The BribieGs "Fake" Aussie Lager .... well I must have done the mash wrong or something as I ended up with an OG of just 1.024 :(
I did have to leave the mash in for about 2.5 hours as I got told at the last minute that I had to hook up the trailer and go pick up some bookshelves (thought to myself "that shouldn't take long") ... nice story that one, 2 bookshelves my hat! ... 2 bookshelves, 1 set of drawers, 1 bed, 1 sofa bed, 1 small ornament cabinet ... so yeah that resulted in a 2.5 hour mash .... could that be what went wrong? (I just can's see how though).

Maybe I am brewing a Tooheys 2.2 clone! (blech!)

Reviewing the DrSmurtos GA recipe, I see the OG should have been 1.047.

Anyway, these two are now kegged. The Aussie Lager is about 2.5% abv & is one of the best tasting light beers I have ever had! (suprise suprise) & with the single addition of PoR hops for bittering it has provided me with a fine example of PoR bittering that I can base future expectations on.

My efforts on DrSmurtos GA recipe I am reserving my judgement on for now ... letting it clear up a bit - but my initial impressions of what I turned out was that my mash temp might have dropped a bit as the end product feels a bit thin and lacking in malt character ... the Amarillo hop flavour and aroma however is there at a level that I like.

Most of all, this has taught me to use a bigger vessel for the mash, and so last Sunday I did another BIAB in a larger vessel that I wrapped in a sleeping bag, foam camping bed roll, and a second sleeping bag on top ... and my OG with 4kg of JW Ale malt in a final volume of 20L was 1.048 ... much better efficiency it seems there!
 
Mate, unless you're dunking your thermometer in your brew, it won't give you any kind of acurate reading. You need to know what temp your beer is, not what the bloody air is outside your fermenter. So unless you've got a probe thermometer in your beer, then I'd say your temp readings are "Fucken useless"...

Which is EXACTLY why i measure the temp's of my gravity samples with a probe thermometer the absolute second it comes out the tap. I don't let it heat up, i have the thermometer sitting in my sample container as it comes out the tap. I know exactly what temp my beer is at.
Who said anything about measuring air temp????

The problem with the stick on strips is they display a range of temps (the ones I have show +-3C) and there's no certainty that it's measuring the fermenter and not the ambient. With such a range and no assurance of what it's measuring... In my opinion they are useless in our application.

Exactly.

Couldn't have said it better myself.

How can you consider your readings (of the stick on strips) to be "accurate"? when they display a temperature range of around 3-4 of those little blocks on the temp strip with each one indicating a two or three degree differential from the next range? Doesn't sound too "accurate" to me. I like knowing to within .1 of a degree what i'm fermenting at and for me, those strips just don't cut it at all.

If you have such an accurate thermometer at your disposal, i reckon, in my honest opinion, youd be better off tearing off the stick on thing and just using your accurate thermometer to measure your samples when you take gravity readings.
I have three fermenters, and not one of 'em has a stick on piece of shit.

For what it's worth, my digital thermometer that i use, i have found to be spot on with those candy thermo's and other mercury based thermometers, but it refreshes it's readout around twice a second so i'm am sure that my temp control is spot on.
I am sure i am not alone with temp control and accuracy within the range i am talking about. It's one of the many variables that when controlled well (everyone's setup is different) mean being closer to absolutely repeatable and consistent brewing.

If you seriously think that looking at a thermometer (of sorts) that shows a potential swing of anything between 4 and 8 degrees like those strips often do is giving you an accurate representation of your ferment temp, i'd suggest is very incorrect.
If given a choice, i know what i and most other brewers would or wouldn't use as "accurate" temp control, and it sure as hell wouldn't be a 50cent stick on thermo.
 
I found my stick on mirrored my fridgemate's readout :ph34r: unfortunately tho it died in a sticky tape accident.
 
my stick on therms are very accurate, I use 3 and wouldnt bother f...n around with anything else.
 
I had a glass of tap water just now & am a little worried as whilst it is drinkable, it does not taste the best - slight chemical flavour, wouldn't describe it as chlorine... not sure what to make of it. I have had this same flavour carry over to a finished beer before, fortunately it faded away after a few weeks.

Another thing I forgot to add, none of this strange water flavour has come through to the beer ... certainly glad of that!
Which makes me wonder, if it was chlorine, then maybe it evaporated during the boil ... what I read about chloramine said that boiling didn't remove that ... hard to say what it might have been. It wasn't present in the water last Sunday when I did another BIAB.
 
Back
Top