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Over the side element

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dave_h

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Im in the process of upgrading my set up to a 100L pot for the kettle, 75L pot for HLT and 55L esky for mash tun (already have this).

I prefer to go electric over gas but im torn between using an over the side element or putting in elements in the pots. Im ok with basic DIY but if I can avoid drilling lots of holes in my new pots and having to make waterproof housing for the electrics I would be happy. I have found this.


Very powerful immersion heaters in stainless at 3.2 kW. Pulls 16 Amperes.

Intended for the pasteurization of fruit drinks.

Can also be used as a heat source for brewing beer (wort boiling).

height 74 cm heating coil dimensions: 29 cm x 18 cm

Transport weight 16 kg

Costs about 130 bucks

I could use it in both the HLT and Kettle and simply swap it out.

Looking at other posts 3200W is not going to be enough for double batches so I may have to go down the immersion element route anyhow.

Any thoughts

Over the side element.jpg
 

roller997

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If it is a 3.2KW element it should only draw 13.4Amp which is fine if you have 15Amp circuits installed. If it draws 16Amp then it would be closer to 3840 Watt and you need a greater capacity circuit which might be more expensive to install.
Another option is to put an element in each of the vessels and then speed up the process of getting to a boil or the right temperatures with the over the side element?

There is a thread whic mentions that a 2000 Watt chinese element results in a good enough boil to loose 14% in evaporation for a single batch in a 50 liter vessel.
Another option you might have is to buy a 2400 Watt immersion element as well and get it kickstarted with two over the side elements. The factors which make a difference to achieving a boil, given the same volume of liquid and the same element are
1. Insulation keeps the heat in and reduces the energy required to maintain a boil
2. The size of your vessel - Vessels which are taller and slimmer boil easier than vessels which are wider and not as tall
3. Using a partial lid / dome on top of your kettle will also reduce the power requirements but it becomes a bit more customized if you use over the side immersion heating elements.

Do you have a contact on where one could purchase such an element as I have a couple of 15Amp circuits installed already?

Cheers

Roller
 

dave_h

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Thanks Roller,

I think im going to go ahead and get it then when I get around to double batches I will put another element in the boiler.

I think its 3200W and that they are just saying that you should have a 16AMP set up, Im just renting now but the owner has gone over the top with electrics, multiple circuits 25AMP, 16 AMP and even lots of three phase.

Im living in Sweden (used to live in Perth), their website is www.humle.se or using google translate like me

http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http://shop.humle.se/utrustning/bryggning/doppvarmare-i-rostfritt-3-2-kw&usg=ALkJrhiTix6Tp6calFmy1Zzgy7U9V5Z8Jw

Im pretty sure they do world postage but it may be expensive.

Cheers

Dave
 

stux

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pretty certain that 16A in euro land is our 10A ;)

ie its the bog standard. Those euro plugs take a big amperage than ours

But then again, I also think they use 220V a lot of the time

3200/220 = 14.54A
 

roller997

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I am pretty sure it is not since the voltage is too close to our voltage :)
In the US, you would double the amperage for the same given wattage but Europe it is pretty similar.
The voltage in most of Europe is between 220-230Volts, so the amperage for 3200 Watt doesn't change that much as your calculations highlight.
It might be that for Oz, we have a 15 Amp power point which would need to be 16 Amp in Europe just to be sure that you don't exceed the capacity.

Most of the European countries (bar UK) use Schuko (derived from protected contact - Schutzkontakt) equivalent plugs with some variations.which offer more surface area for the current to flow so even a standard plug would be capable of quite a few amps even out of a standard socket.

Bummer about the elements being from Sweden. With the cost of shipping I might as well get some local 2400 Watt elements.

Cheers

Roller
 

stux

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Yup, I have a collection of euro powerboards, iirc, they're 16A rated
 

pk.sax

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Yep, normal board, 3500W, 16A, 250V.

Those things also have round pins and double earth contacts...
 

dave_h

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mikeybycrikey said:
By double batches you mean 47L start and bout 42L finish right? Using a converted keg kettle and a 2400W OTS element I got here (http://connorbreware.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=85 ) I pulled a double batch off 2 weeks ago, That said I used a burner to help get to boil but after that just the element kept 42-47L boiling pretty nicely.
Sorry been away working hence the late reply, yes double as in 42-46L, im going to get some 100L pots so I maybe even be able to get tripple batches out but might not have enough room in my mash.

Im going to go ahead and get one, do a test double and if it doesnt have enough juice then maybe buy a second and run it off a different circuit, save all the hassle with elements, water proofing and gass.

Just a thought, would I be able to use one to adjust the mash temp, if I keep moving it around it would not scortch the grains?

Thanks

Dave
 

Diesel80

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Dave
single ots wont cut the mustard. i have one and 80l pot. I use a 3 ring burner with it. middle ring and ots when boiling is good for single batch.

Double may need outer ring on too.

Cheers
D80
 

dave_h

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I got the element last week and its certainly a good piece of kit, unfortunately the min level mark is quite high (23cm I think) and as my pots are quite wide (50cm) I need around 58L of liquid and it is just not powerful enough, with lots of insulation and the lid ¾ on I can just get a boil but it is no where vigorous enough.

So I need MORE power…

Im still very keen on the over the side elements so was thinking of getting another smaller 2400W one.

Due to my big pots I will have to suspend the element over the liquid and have concerns of the plastic connection part getting too hot as
its not over the side. Reading around it looks like some people don’t have a problem with this, is this correct?

Would one option be to mount the element in a sealed pipe (heat proof plastic?) to keep the temp/moisture down for the log boils?

Cheers

Dave
 

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