New Manifold Invention

[Henno]

I read somewhere that when using ss braid in a mash tun that only the first few cms actually are filtering as the rest is squashed flat by the weight of the grain bed + water.

Since going double batches I have had stuck sparges everytime using the same braid style filter. I came up with this for an idea that I want to try and would like everybody to flame me and tell me i'm an idiot please.

My theory was that if it was the fact that the braid was compressing under weight that I could keep it in shape by adding a copper pipe inside the braid and drill lots of holes in it. I know you can use a copper manifold only but don't believe I know enough about the size holes/slits to drill in it to avoid further stuck sparges. Here's what I made:



I stuck the braid over this and then screwed it over the junction of the copper T piece with heaps of slack in it to keep the braid holes apart. The final product looks similar to what I was already using but has a solid copper centre:



I am now wearing my asbestos pyjamas so feel free to flame away.

Henno

 

[bradsbrew]

I have been considering the same thing, but I was thinking cutting slits in the pipe then cover with braid. Reason is the slit will help flow more so than small holes and the braid will stop fine particles? Flange will control flow out of tap.

Will be interesting to see the opinions on this one.

Cheers Brad

 

[Henno]

The only reason I went for holes over slits is for ease of manufacture. I reckon I'd stuff up and put one slit too deep and the whole pipe would be weak at that point and eventually break from taking it off the drain tube to clean it every time. If I wasn't limited to a 4" grinder and a dodgy vice I would actually have preferred slits.

 

[SJW]

Two words.....FALSE BOTTOM?

 

[razz]

No probs with what you have done Henno. I use a copper manifold, I made cuts in it with a hacksaw. Any particles that get through get filtered out during recirculation.

 

[Screwtop]

Cry fowl - cluck cluck - or foul or whatever. Made one 12 months or more ago using slotted copper with braid over. SS FB arrived before I ever tested it, so it sits in the box-A-bits.

Still reckon it would work well!

 

[Pumpy]

Great Idea Henno I like it

Pumpy

 

[Henno]

Was your bottom that bad that you needed a false one though? Thanks for telling us about your plastic surgery SJW but I don't see how it is relevant to this topic.

 

[Paul H]

I have been pondering different option with regard to this as well & suggested it to another brewer who had tried it (although he used plastic tube) instead of copper & found it didn't work for him. It passed the water trial but stuck in the most important trial.
Will be interested to see your results.

 

[pablo_h]

Damn, why haven't I heard of this problem with braids before? I just built my first mash tun mk2 and used braided hose.
I haven't used it yet, but I have a slotted copper manifold from mk1 which never went into production.
What I'm going to do is cut the right length, slot the opposite side to the side I've already cut between the existing slots to increase the flow capacity and put it into the braided hose.

 

[3G]

Used braid once and it s(t)uck .

 

[Inge]

I use a relatively short length of braid. Had one stuck sparge, eventually cleared because I was lautering too quickly and the grainbed was compressing the braid. Now I mash out, toss a handful of ricehulls in the bottom of the tun and have no problem whatsoever with lautering.

I like braid.

 

[yardy]

good idea Mark, i thought about it a couple of times but found it easier to just build the manifold, hope it works out for you, let us know how it goes.

btw, there's always one in every crowd mate

Cheers
Dave

 

[Doc]

I saw a guy on Brewboard who did a similar thing, but inserted springs into the braid to give it some strength.
Damned if I can find the topic now. Maybe someone book marked it here ?

Doc

 

[T.D.]

The last couple of brews I've done I've had stuck sparges. Could be a braid issue like you suggested. I've been meaning to go to a false bottom setup for ages but will mean having to organise a new pot, so haven't been bothered yet. Its getting pretty annoying doing brews when you are almost assured of getting a stuck sparge.

What I was thinking of doing, which somebody already mentioned here, was just to get some annealed copper (which I have lying around) and fashion that into a ring and cut slits in it. Should work pretty well.

BTW, does anybody know the internal diameter of those el cheapo Big W 19L stock pots? Would it fit a 12" false bottom?

 

[Cortez The Killer]

I reckon that slots will allow you to drain a faster

Even larger holes may be the go

The braid is really doing all the filtering - while the copper is acting as a support. So I don't see the benefit of using both to do the job of filtering.

I'd be inclined to cut slots or increase the hole size in the copper

But you've definitely resolved the collapsing braid issue

Cheers

 

[Henno]

The braid is really doing all the filtering - while the copper is acting as a support. So I don't see the benefit of using both to do the job of filtering.


Cheers

Thanks CTK I really know I am not filtering with the copper and my intention was just to add a bit of support to the poor old braid that is getting compressed. My double batch weight is too much for it I think.

I also agree with you T.D. I feel I am almost putting my brewing off a bit now I expect a stuck sparge every time and have to blow into a bloody hot tube to unstick it, I still don't know if this is the best way to go with this problem.

Yardy, I have only seen two people's set up and one person actually brew. Andrew uses braid so that's the way I went. I always think of your manifold system and get a bit green with envy. I'll sling you a few bucks to make a round one for me to fit into my keg style tun.

Has anybody tried doing these slots with limited tools, ie a grinder only? Would a 1mm cutting blade do? I still have enough copper to do one more manifold.

Doc. I actually used to use a spring to bend 20mm telstra conduit but never got around to buying one to bend the little 10mm stuff I use now for austar. I reckon that would fit nicely into this size braid though.

Thanks all.

 

[Cortez The Killer]

You can just use a hacksaw - copper is very easy to cut

If the width isn't what you are after you can use 2 blades at once

Cheers

 

[spog]

g,day all. playing the devils advocate here,would;nt it be easier to just use the copper manifold on its own.
i am thinking that the braid covered copper would be a good place for nasties to hide and be pita to clean properly.
my 2 cents worth,dont mean to step on any toes.....cheers....spog......

 

[Henno]

Hey Spog, I knew somebody would say this but my main concern with a copper only manifold was as I said whether I could get the slots thin enough so they didn't block up and I'd be back to the same stuck sparges.

If it turns out that the thinnest hacksaw blade is fine I will be trying one eventually. I have a honking big pump on my dam that puts out amazing water pressure. It should blast out most nasties from the new invention. If it doesn't my next step will be copper only and pray it doesn't get grain in the slots.