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olskoolsoulja

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G'day,
Can someone tell me the volume of my new kettle in litres ?

1300mm by 600mm (300rad)

Cheers

Rich
 
Thanks mate !

I keep getting 370 litres but this seems to much as a 205l drum is only about 600 by 900( I think)
 
The easiest way to convert a cylinder's dimensions to a volume is to use V=h*pi*r^2 in centimetres. If you use mm or m it becomes too confusing as to how to get it back to litres, whereas doing it in cm will always give you mL. You're spot on, 367L is the volume of that vessel. I found a paper which gives the internal dimensions of a 205L drum as 571.5mm dia * 847mm deep. This actually comes out as about 214L, but I'm guessing they either usually leave some room for headspace, or the lid is depressed and takes up 9L, or, indeed, they just got it wrong and have called it a 205L drum ever since. Anyway, the point is that small changes in diameter result in larger changes in overall volume, because it's proportional to the radius squared.
 
Thanks Lethal!!

I notice your from Parra , just like to say with the start of the footy season "GO YOU EELS".

and what a season! 200L batchs on the way!
 
:p I live in Parramatta, but I was born, raised, and taught to shout pissed abuse at yellow jerseys from a hill a mite West of here.

Go you Panthers!

EDIT: 200L? With that vessel, I reckon you oughtta be aiming at 300+
 
G'day,
Can someone tell me the volume of my new kettle in litres ?

1300mm by 600mm (300rad)

Cheers

Rich

By my calculations that vessel will hold 2.83litres for every cm of height (use this to make a chart in excel & a ruler as a depth guage to determine what's in the pot). Multiplying that out I get 367.7l total!

That's a big pot which would work well with my 200l mash tun ;-). Where are you located? maybe we could introduce em 1 day Just noticed you're in Townsville, so don't think it's happen - maybe they could have a long distance relationship? :lol:
 
ugh, vessel love. Won't someone please think of the sanitation?

That logic only works if it's a perfect cylinder, which it's unlikely
to be. Middle ground is if it's a perfect cylinder with a curve into
the base, in which case you could measure in a few litres until it's
above the curve and start your ruler from there. If it's got ribs and
dimples, big dents etc like a keg-shaped-vessel or 55gal drum, the
best way to do it is just measure in liquid and mark each level with
an engraver - probably every 5l for a vessel that size. might be best
to do that anyway to save yourself doing calculations in yourhead on
the measurements while you've got wort boiling over, a hop addition to
make and a six pack of the last batch under the belt. obviously sight
glass is best, and mark the outside of the vessel, but inside should
also be okay - pay attention to the engraving when cleaning.
one further thing to consider is whether you're more interested in how
much wort has gone in, how much will come out, or both, ie whether you
start at the bottom, or start at the tap. if the latter, fill until
the levelis above the tap, run it out until it stops flowing and mark
the level as your zero. Two sets of markings are also fine

apologies for any typoes and miserable punctuatuion/capitalisation
above. The PDA isn't designed for this
 
ugh, vessel love. Won't someone please think of the sanitation?

That logic only works if it's a perfect cylinder, which it's unlikely
to be. Middle ground is if it's a perfect cylinder with a curve into
the base, in which case you could measure in a few litres until it's
above the curve and start your ruler from there. If it's got ribs and
dimples, big dents etc like a keg-shaped-vessel or 55gal drum, the
best way to do it is just measure in liquid and mark each level with
an engraver - probably every 5l for a vessel that size. might be best
to do that anyway to save yourself doing calculations in yourhead on
the measurements while you've got wort boiling over, a hop addition to
make and a six pack of the last batch under the belt. obviously sight
glass is best, and mark the outside of the vessel, but inside should
also be okay - pay attention to the engraving when cleaning.
one further thing to consider is whether you're more interested in how
much wort has gone in, how much will come out, or both, ie whether you
start at the bottom, or start at the tap. if the latter, fill until
the levelis above the tap, run it out until it stops flowing and mark
the level as your zero. Two sets of markings are also fine

apologies for any typoes and miserable punctuatuion/capitalisation
above. The PDA isn't designed for this
What LC says is true, however from experience I can state that the variation caused if a straight sided pot has been compressed into a slight oval are negligible. Ridges and ripples are another thing.

With my pot I calculated the l/cm then created a look up table. I then poured measured volumes into the pot to validate the calculated volumes against a depth stick (a 1m stainless steel rule). I think that the steel rule gives flexibility in that I can measure up & down ie the volume I've filled or the volume I want to drain (clip the rule to the pot using a bulldog clip with the wort/water level at the height which corresponds to the required volume, then drain until the wort/water level is at the bottom of the rule.)

Using this method I consistently hit volume targets.
 
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