New Ag Setup Construction

[Archie]

Gday everyone,
I am currently in the process of setting up my new HERMS AG setup. I was curious to see how other people cut there holes in SS kegs for bulkhead connection and things. For example the heater element hole, dial gauge stuff like that because the normal drill bit are not big enough

any help would be sweet

Cheers Archie

 

[domonsura]

To weld a 1/2BSP socket into the side of a kettle I use a 22mm carbide tipped holesaw drill to get a nice clean hole, and hone it out a little more if required with an air powered die-grinder (which you could use a round file for).
The proper drill bit is made for stainless, it and the adaptor will cost about $40, but if you are drilling a number of them it's worth the investment to do it properly as stainless usually destroys lesser quality tools in the blink of an eye, sometimes damaging your prized vessel in the process.

Use a variable speed drill on a very slow speed, and use cutting oil. Lots of it.
(High drill speeds will generate heat, which will harden the stainless while you drill and blunt/burn/melt the drill bit. Not using cutting oil will cause the drill to bite, mangle your drill site and then blunt/burn/melt the drill bit. Either one will probably ruin your day so slow and oily going...)

 

[bugwan]

I think the tungsten-tipped holesaw is the way to go Archie. I've only used Alum for my kettle etc, but I've seen plenty of posts by happy holesaw owners...

edit: beaten!

 

[sqyre]

I just use the blue/black hole saws.. The ones for metal at about $20-$25 bucks each depending on size that you need to have an arbour for.

Like Domonsura said you just have to go really really slow..the slower the better and yes lots of oil.

Dont bother even trying to cut the hole unless you have a decent variable speed drill with a low gear.

I have used the same hole saw and have cut dozens of holes in stainless and its still as sharp as when i bought it.

each hole only took about 30-40 seconds each and at a guess id say the drill is running at 60-120 rpm at most. maybe less. It will get hot but add the oil every 10seconds or so to keep the temp down..

The first time it gets too hot...the saw is stuffed.

The bloke at the hardware laughed at me when i said i was gunna cut stainless with it when i bought it...

If he only knew...

Sqyre...

 

[Archie]

thanks for the input everyone i may have to go for the holesaw option tomorrow to see how it goes i will post some pics and stuff of how its all looking tomorrow cheers

 

[Pumpy]

It is more expensive but great for thin metal

UNIBIT

Pumpy

 

[domonsura]

It is more expensive but great for thin metal

UNIBIT

Pumpy

yeah I have a couple of them too Pumpy, they're great little drills, and they last too when they're looked after..indispensable when you have them in a press, saves changing drill bits all the time when drilling lots of holes different sizes. Love how they basically countersink themselves too....

 

[Archie]

Hm so many decisions, I may have to make a trip to bunnings tomorrow

 

[blackbock]

Regarding the step drills, if you go down that road make sure you are buying QUALITY ones (read:expensive). The cheap ones that you buy in a set of three at, eg. Bunnings, are absolutely crap.
They are okay for small holes, but nowhere near any good for anything over about 1/2" BSP.
You may as well throw away $20, because they won't even finish one job.

 

[kook]

I just use the blue/black hole saws.. The ones for metal at about $20-$25 bucks each depending on size that you need to have an arbour for.

The bloke at the hardware laughed at me when i said i was gunna cut stainless with it when i bought it...

If he only knew...

Sqyre...

The blue ones I bought were suitable for stainless, at least it said so on the pack.

I just went slow and used loads of lube, penetrated it no problem :lol:

 

[Franko]

Bi-Metal holesaw and a bit of WD and away you go

 

[browndog]

All good suggestions here, as told, S/S is a bugger to work, you need to go slowly (to avoid heat) and maintain a constant pressure to keep the teeth cutting and cutting oil too if you have it. There is another method not mentioned here and that is stitch drilling, whereby you take a small bit, about 1/8" or 3.3mm and following the outline of your hole, make a series of holes as close as possible to each other at 90deg to the surface you are drilling, then run your drill though the same holes at an acute angle to dig some of the remaining metal out then go back at the opposite angle to get even more, by now there is bugger all metal left between the holes, you can then knock the bit left in the middle out and clean up the edges with a round file or drum sander attached to a die grinder or drill. As I have some pretty schmick hole saws up to about 32mm, I only use this method for really big holes, say around 6-8" in diameter, it takes a while and you have to drill a lot of holes, but with a 1/8th bit you can knock them through pretty quick and if you are careful you don't need to worry about lube. I've found that I can do an 8" hole with one bit using a good cordless drill on a slow speed.

cheers

Browndog

 

[Archie]

Hey all just a quick update on hopw my new brewstand is coming along any suggestions please feel free to say what you think, its in its early stages but slowly getting there.
I decided to make it from wood because i want my stand to look kinda old school I plan to finish it with plenty of copper piping and a barrell type mash tun with a SS keg inside.

 

[browndog]

Hey all just a quick update on hopw my new brewstand is coming along any suggestions please feel free to say what you think, its in its early stages but slowly getting there.
I decided to make it from wood because i want my stand to look kinda old school I plan to finish it with plenty of copper piping and a barrell type mash tun with a SS keg inside.

Looking good Archie, but the carpenter in me is saying that the legs on the four corners need to have another upright fitted between the two in the center to create an I type cross sectional shape for each leg that will provide the lateral stability that I think your design is lacking a bit. Remember, there could be over 100kg sitting on that frame on brew day, another way you could do it would be diagonal bracing on each end.

cheers

Browndog

 

[redbeard]

I used a 21mm holesaw, as the 22mm was too loose after cleaning & sanding ...

 

[Archie]

Thanks for the info browndog but am a little confused check the picture for where the addition bracing needs to be

 

[Morrie0069]

Hi Archie,

I'd say the extra brace Browndog mentioned would go from 1 middle wheel to the other middle wheel on the bottom of the frame - same as you have at the top. Might want to add some flashing or something to protect the timber from teh heat.

Cheers,

Morrie

 

[Archie]

Okay a few more braces now it seems to be solid as a rock,

 

[redbeard]

i think he meant diagonal, as in from middle wheel up to top & same on end, from one corner wheel up to other top corner. as in how old bridges are built.

sortof like in

http://www.co.yamhill.or.us/pics/Dayton/St...%20-%201915.jpg

 

[Tony]

make triangles good man

make triangles !!!