Motoring Millmaster Part01 - Dismantle The Washingmachine

[pdilley]

I picked up the dead washing machine today 30 minutes after arriving home from the LHBS with some more hop rhizomes (great deal at $11 straight from the LHBS fridge compared to eBay/online prices) and got the trailer hitched up and drove a whole 3 streets to get the dead washer.

Its a Simpson Dual Speed (score! can run the motor at two different RPMs!) Should make it easy to dial in the right speed for the Mill Master with different sized pulley wheels.

9 times out of 10 its never the motor that dies on a washer, its all the bits in between (control knob through the controller and relays down to the wiring to the motor). So fingers crossed

SWMBO Got stuck right in it with me (score #2, she's really enjoying the ratchet tool and says it really makes her feel good because she can handle using it and feels like she's helping -- note for any with SWMBOs)


After a short while, we had the Water Pump disconnected (before the first photo taken) and it did not take long to free the control panel and the electric motor!


Control Panel from the front


From the back, looks complicated with all the wiring but thats because it has two speeds on the motor so twice the wiring has to be hooked up to control it properly


Now lets take a look at that motor, from the front and getting a measure on the diameter of the already mounted wheels. A little elbow grease and a fine wire brush should get all that rust cleaned up if you are a shine freak.


Photos are good with rulers then you don't have to keep going back out to the shed to measure it all over again.


Here we can see we got two sets of coloured wires going into the wirings representing providing energy for either/or fast/slow RPM.


Now the only down side is the sticker with the part number has worn the text clean off.


That should be ok provided I can get a hold of a Simpson washing machine repairman and can get a quick look up on the replacement motor and the RPM ranges.

For now its a bummer that I don't have the RPM figures to do any calculations on proper wheel sizes for the belts.


Until next time....


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

EDIT: Until I get the specs I am going to assume that this is a 1/3 hp motor.

 

[altone]

I picked up the dead washing machine today ......

For now its a bummer that I don't have the RPM figures to do any calculations on proper wheel sizes for the belts.


Until next time....


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

EDIT: Until I get the specs I am going to assume that this is a 1/3 hp motor.

Will watch this with great interest, I have the exact same machine in the laundry.
Much easier to get SWMBO to agree to a new washing machine than buying a grain mill motor

 

[pdilley]

I am no longer worried about getting the motor specification on RPMs from the manufacturer.


I had one of those brilliant idea moments over dinner tonight.


Tie a plastic tie wrap around one of the wheels and pull tight. Let the plastic end hang out.

Set the motor next to a block of wood or other item so that the plastic end "SLAPS" against it when spinning. Just like those "clicky" spinning reels for fishing


Record the sound of the slapping with the computer. Using my Macbook laptop because of the high quality components you don't get nasty HUMMmmmmmm of cheap audio components in the PC laptops.

Cut out 5 seconds or 10 seconds of audio.

Display on the screen , you see the full audio waveform including all the slaps.

Count the slaps and multiply by 6 if a 10 second recording
or
Count the slaps and multiply by 12 if a 5 second recording

WHAMO
Instant RPM, not Manufacture's "suggested" RPM but actual RPM output by your exact motor.


Chuffed!

Cheers,
Brewer Pete

 

[benno1973]

How can you tell if a washing machine has a dual speed motor without pulling it apart?

 

[pdilley]

Ok,

Looks like most of the older washing machines will be AC motors. The new ones are starting to come with universal motors or AC motors with DC motor components (commutator and a set of brushes) so the future generation will have to go about sussing out their motors differently as they will have to worry about a set of wires for the brushes, a set of wires for the field and possibly additional set of wires for a magnetic speed transducer.

With the AC motor it looks like it will either be two speeds or perhaps forward and reverse or a combination of the two in the wiring.


The washer I got had the back rotten off (lovely press board) and usually the back of the washer has the schematic of the washing machine itself. Also missing seems to be a starting capacitor, could not find trace of one during dismantling will have to have another ganders when it gets a bit warmer to go outside into the shed. Most AC motors would have had them I had thought.

I am going to guess the wiring at the complex option that the 220-240 Volt AC 50Hz electric motor will consist of 5 conductors (wires), 2 for high speed spin cycle and 3 three for forward reverse with one been common.

At its simplest, one set of conductors for low speed coil, one set of conductors for high speed coil with a common ground.

With a capacitor in the circuit you could switch the direction forward or reverse by switching the input to one side of the capacitor or to the other.


More fun ahead flying blind until its sussed out.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

 

[pdilley]

Ok,

Had some time after errands and shopping to get back to the shed to document the wiring of the motor some more.

When flying blind you have to draw your own schematics of how the relays and switching work inside the motor box and how it goes back to the wire harness up to the control box. Got to hand it to Simpson. Make all their wires white must have saved them a bundle shaving costs.


There is a sixth wire discovered on second inspection of the motor. Black. As shown below.

Now that I have photos I can draw out a schematic diagram for the relay box and help myself suss out how the motor is built.




Relay box cover off.



Starting from the left side, removing the first two relay parts to see how they connect to other parts.

Second shot you get to see the relay contact point where the arcing spark has sooted carbon deposits all around.


Third relay component removed.


Fourth and last on the left side removed.


Shot of relay box with entire left side removed.



Now to document the right hand side components of the motor control relay box. We only have three components over here to document.

First Right side removed


Second Right side removed


Third and last Right side removed



There now we can draw up a schematic using the first photo and the pre-contact making connection of the relay (switch). And the rest of the pictures let us draw coloured wires to the motor and white wires to the wiring harness.


Now for that new discovered black wire. We also see the green wire ground to the motor chassis but thats easy to know what its for so we make not and move on to the black wire.


Traces to a part that is mounted into the motor chassis.


Then has a white wire coming out that just runs to the wiring harness back to the control panel.



Lets get that part off and have closer look.


Turn it around and nothing fancy just a straight connection and the part is mounted over a winding of wire inside the motor.




There! Now we have everything we need documented. Time to start drawing up a schematic.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

 

[bill_gill85]

Pete,

Excellent work in documenting the dissasembly of your motor's wiring to help you suss out the wiring & reassembly, but with the relay you have dissasembled in your last post, you have not documented a coil or wires running to a coil that would enable the relay to be "pulled in". I can see a slide mechanism that would enable the contacts to change over, but cannot see how it is activated. I am aware that some relatively simple motors do have some sort of speed operated switch that activates parts of the motor during start up.

I also suspect, that if the motor is responsible for the directon reversal of the agitator, the motor may be designed to operate without a start capacitor. You might also find the motor has a brake on the shaft to stop the drum spinning if someone were to open the lid in the middle of the spin cycle.

The part that you removed that was mounted over a coil in the motor may be some sort of inductive pickup.

Cheers,

Ben

 

[pdilley]

with the relay you have dissasembled in your last post, you have not documented a coil or wires running to a coil that would enable the relay to be "pulled in". I can see a slide mechanism that would enable the contacts to change over, but cannot see how it is activated. I am aware that some relatively simple motors do have some sort of speed operated switch that activates parts of the motor during start up.

I also suspect, that if the motor is responsible for the directon reversal of the agitator, the motor may be designed to operate without a start capacitor. You might also find the motor has a brake on the shaft to stop the drum spinning if someone were to open the lid in the middle of the spin cycle.

The part that you removed that was mounted over a coil in the motor may be some sort of inductive pickup.

Ben,

I'm with you on the pickup, best explanation so far.

I got home today with a new toy. Been out of the electronics game since 1993 so needed a DMM to do some simple continuity tests. I have 12V light bulbs and 12V sealed batteries (to build my own simple continuity meter) but since I got the washer and motor for free. I could get a decent basic 32 Range DMM from Jaycar, only $29.

I only had the phone with me in the shed tonight so I have horrible mobile phone pictures, but they are good enough.

Going back to a relay I looked at the original photo or myself I looked at the motor and there is a spring mechanical mechanism that lifts the arms when the top is removed. Initially I thought it might move as well with the top down but could not believe there was a mechanical linkage inside the motor on the back of the box responsible for this.

Original camera photo showing detail of spring mechanism in back of box.


I then took a good hard look at the relay box cover and noticed it was not one piece but two pieces. Removing the box cover I saw that this might in fact be a simple switch box with open access for testing the motor on the bench or assembly floor by putting non-conductive material. Ice cream stick for me Into the contacts and removing contacts. Or its simply nothing.




Moving on to final mechanicals inspection, lets have a look behind that cap.

Hmm nothing but packing and a cap cover over the shaft and a retaining C-clip.



Moving on lets test continuity and see what wires connect to what.

I built two lists of wire colours on the left and right side of an envelope from Medicare (recycle, reduce, reuse! )
I then set the meter to continuity, turned it on and proceeded to place one test lead onto one connector and then using the other lead touch all the other connectors on the motor.

RED
RED/WHITE
BLUE
BLUE/WHITE
YELLOW/WHITE
BLACK
GREEN (Ground)





Nothing was directly connected to green, thank god! So all is ok there with our motor chassis ground, nothing shorted out internally to it.


After mapping out everything I had this (excuse the crap handwriting).
I even mapped the physical switch connections below the list.




I'll be damned! After all that what we end up is a simple connection between one set of wires, RED and RED/WHITE.
And a whole messy spaghetti connection (including the pickup-black wire) between the bottom wires to each and every other wire in the group.

If this is a two-speed motor, which one would you guess most likely will be a high speed rinse cycle motor run? (in one direction)


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

 

[pdilley]

Now to measure the RPM. Because I have built a lot of model airplanes with nitro-alcohol engines in them. I still have a propeller tachometer. If it goes low enough I could just temporarily stick a ice cream stick or one of my wooden propellers onto the motor and run it and take a propeller tach measurement (optical tach).


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

 

[pdilley]

*** NOTICE ***

This is not the motor I am working with. This is for educational purposes.


If you are curious what the average washing machine motor looks like when you pull it apart.

These are known as AC Induction Squirrel Cage Rotor motors. phew, say that 10 times fast with a mouth full of breakfast cereal!

Squirrel cage rotor on the right.

Windings and Poles on the left. Notice there are lots of poles so this motor would run slower than an AC Motor with fewer poles.




If I get time I might put more how they work pictures up.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

 

[pdilley]

Back home and a call into Simpson Spare Parts and Repair facility. Asked for a schematic or wiring diagram and got my ass laughed at on the phone. Apparently this country is a bit backward to others in the northern part of the planet where all wiring details are printed on the back of each machine or on the inside of an access panel. Here, its considered sacred knowledge and not given out to anyone. Must be that protectionist racket for service?


Now that manufacturer is SOL, its time to get back to the motor and start mapping it.


Now we need to do a couple things. Lets see if the motor is in good nick internally. So lets check for any leakage between the wires coming out and the chassis/ground as we don't want to get stray electricity and some electrocution potential even if a little buzz from the chassis of the motor itself.

Set the DMM to Ohms and lets take readings after disconnecting all the colour wire leads from the switch box on the front. Any ohm reading except infinite will be cause for electrical leakage concern. One test lead to the coloured wire connector pressed hard and the other test lead to the chassis/ground pressed hard for good contact/reading:

First lets baseline our test tool:
One probe lead touched to the other probe lead = 0.6 Ohms

Now lets test the chassis to ground connection:
Ground tab connected to multiple places on the chassis = 0.6 Ohms

All good.

Now lets test each Colour Wire to Ground/Chassis for any leakage:
Red to Chassis/GND = Infinite
Red/White to Chassis/GND = Infinite
Blue to Chassis/GND = Infinite
Blue/White to Chassis/GND = Infinite
Yellow/White to Chassis/GND = Infinite
Black to Chassis/GND = Infinite

Excellent all good.


Now lets double check out continuity with the wires disconnected from the switching box on the chassis while we are at it for a sanity check to last nights readings:
Red connects to Red/White
and
All the other colours (except for Red and Red/White) connected to each other (except for Red and Red/White).

all good there.


Now lets go in depth and check out the ohm resistance on each connection. This will give us an idea of how big a coil is being used compared to other coils, little better than blind continuity test but not perfect, this is like echo location on a sub. We get some idea whats in there but not instant answers

Lets re-run our baseline:
Probe to Probe = 0.6
Ground to Chassis = 0.6

Ok lets start testing:
Red to Red/White = 6.5

thats it for the easy first pair. Now lets go to the spaghetti nest of connected wires and see what we can read:
Blue to Blue/White = 8.7
Blue to Yellow/White = 6.5
Blue to Black = 0.6

next colour
Blue/White to Yellow/White = 11.7
Blue/White to Black = 8.7
Blue/White to Blue = see above Blue to Blue/White

next colour
Yellow/White to Black = 6.3
Yellow/White to Blue = see above Blue to Yellow/White
Yellow/White to Blue/White = see above Blue/White to Yellow/White


Now we got some idea of whats potentially behind the colours.

While doing this I recall that some motors without starting capacitor might be using a coil inside just for starting the motor going.

Including photos of my notes, excuse the handwriting of course

Readings


Sketch of mapping of the switching/controller box on the motor itself



Cheers,
Brewer Pete

 

[pdilley]

Common AC Motor wiring patterns is one last resource to post as I go off and meditate on this.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

 

[Dicko ACT]

Common AC Motor wiring patterns is one last resource to post as I go off and meditate on this.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

Way too much work mate!

...would you like to borrow my mill?

 

[pdilley]

Hey Dicko!

nah, i'm just filling in my time waiting for your order of fans to come in so I can get to work on building slave stir plates. It was either this or get cracking into building those beehives

Guys at work are now getting into kenyan top bar hives as an alternative to langs and have offered wood with the intent I build them some as well before swarming season so if the fans don't come in the additional stirplates will be a few more months before their making.

Cheers,
Brewer Pete

reminds me, need to check in in the canberra brewers forums

 

[Dicko ACT]

Hey Dicko!

nah, i'm just filling in my time waiting for your order of fans to come in so I can get to work on building slave stir plates. It was either this or get cracking into building those beehives

Guys at work are now getting into kenyan top bar hives as an alternative to langs and have offered wood with the intent I build them some as well before swarming season so if the fans don't come in the additional stirplates will be a few more months before their making.

Cheers,
Brewer Pete

reminds me, need to check in in the canberra brewers forums

Fans came in Monday mate (posted on CBC Forum)... Give me a bell when you're free.

 

[pdilley]

Fans came in Monday mate (posted on CBC Forum)... Give me a bell when you're free.

Cheers for the Fans mate and cheers for the beers, even the ginger beer wasn't too shabby though I prefer mine with good bite, milder is nicer with cooler weather.

Can't beat $9 an AC fan shipped!

Keep up the good work and see you at the next Canberra Brewers Club meeting.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

 

[pdilley]

Ok I've drawn up my best guess so far. Just took the Probe to Probe measurement of the test gear, subtracted it from all the readings and averaged them out. Then just drew some dots on the paper and plotted out some coil readings and saw what shape I came up with.

So far it is this, which looks like a Series Delta coil pattern. I drew other patterns afterwards to try and see what I could come up with but nothing looked as good as my first go which is below:

Now I'm scratching my head because I'm not seeing any Dual Speed out of this diagram.

I've figured the inductive connection is most likely for starting. I've figured the switch box on the motor is probably some overload or overhead protection box.

I've just been out of electronics to remember the AC that much, so I'll have to brush up. Most of the work we did was in DC so we left most of the AC motor theory out the door.

I just happened to find no resources online that are worth spit, so I stumbled across a bunch of information and built my own document on the Mac laptop and converted it all out to PDF format for all to enjoy. If you want a good education in AC Motors, get this file!

View attachment Introduction_to_AC_Motor_Rewind.pdf

I still have no good theory down on how Inductive Starter would work. So got a little book work to catch up on.



Cheers,
Brewer Pete

 

[absinthe]

Ok I've drawn up my best guess so far. Just took the Probe to Probe measurement of the test gear, subtracted it from all the readings and averaged them out. Then just drew some dots on the paper and plotted out some coil readings and saw what shape I came up with.

So far it is this, which looks like a Series Delta coil pattern. I drew other patterns afterwards to try and see what I could come up with but nothing looked as good as my first go which is below:
View attachment 29084
Now I'm scratching my head because I'm not seeing any Dual Speed out of this diagram.

I've figured the inductive connection is most likely for starting. I've figured the switch box on the motor is probably some overload or overhead protection box.

I've just been out of electronics to remember the AC that much, so I'll have to brush up. Most of the work we did was in DC so we left most of the AC motor theory out the door.

I just happened to find no resources online that are worth spit, so I stumbled across a bunch of information and built my own document on the Mac laptop and converted it all out to PDF format for all to enjoy. If you want a good education in AC Motors, get this file!

View attachment 29085

I still have no good theory down on how Inductive Starter would work. So got a little book work to catch up on.



Cheers,
Brewer Pete

the relay you have pulled apart might be a start relay,



the motor will have a start winding to kick it over, the normal winding draws current threw ether a coil or a bi-metallic strip (could also be a wire that shrinks). the coil type works like a normal relay but the bi-metallic type warms up and disconnects the start winding and the motor runs as normal (this type is used in fridges etc) they also have no capacitor..



maybe thats why you cant find one

 

[pdilley]

the relay you have pulled apart might be a start relay,



the motor will have a start winding to kick it over, the normal winding draws current threw ether a coil or a bi-metallic strip (could also be a wire that shrinks). the coil type works like a normal relay but the bi-metallic type warms up and disconnects the start winding and the motor runs as normal (this type is used in fridges etc) they also have no capacitor..



maybe thats why you cant find one

Yep, sounds like what I might be facing.

I did some more doodling today at work during lunch break and thought up how to wire a two-conductor single-phase AC system to that triangle in a way that would make sense and I came up with the starter coil idea with one running coil idea. Triangle gives two combinations. That gives a starter coil + slow running speed and a starter coil + fast running speed.

I modified the drawing to include two ladder-diagrams depicting this idea and then emailed myself a scan of it to post up when I got home:


I'm going to run it past at least one AC Motor rewinder guy as a sanity test before I jump right in.

I'm thinking about the bi-metal warming and it would warm from conducting current to the starting coil? Would it not cool down and then re-connect the starting coil?

I'll have to now start looking at adding the influence of the switch box motor controller on my drawings so far and I might have sussed it all out, or at least give the rewinder a big grin when he sights what I came up with.

I am now guessing that the BLACK connector goes into an inductive pickup. This gives ?feedback? loop back into BLUE which connects to the 8ohm or 6ohm running coils which disrupts their ?magnetic fields? during starting. Once the ?bi-metal? connector heats up and disconnects the starter coil (guessing 11 ohm is it and what the inductive pickup goes over) then the AC current going to the running coil is no longer inductively disrupted and the coil functions as normal? --- again best guess at operations of a inductive starter motor so far that I have and all of this from deductive reasoning techniques.

I think bi-metal is an awesome idea. But if the starter coil is on momentarily then off then it looks like the RED/WHITE to WHITE bi-metal strip is an overload protector for the motor. When it gets to hot, it open momentarily letting it cool down a bit, then contacts and it overloads and it opens and cools down. And so on and so on ad nauseam.

The bottom connection has two WHITES connect to YELLOW/WHITE which is on the bigger 11 Ohm coil with one WHITE coming across a bi-metal thermal switch. This might cause an AC electrical short on purpose when the motor is first turned on the bi-metal strip heats up. As it bends and leaves the YELLOW/WHITE contact inside the box and it bends and moves onto BLUE/WHITE contact and energizes that point feeding into Running coils which come online momentarily after the starting coil has its chance to influence the motor. It keeps contact with BLUE/WHITE because its still transferring AC current and warming up how?

According to this theory of operation and the mapping of the control box:

The 11 Ohm coil starts OFF until the bi-metal heats up and energizes BLUE/WHITE.
It heats up because both AC conductors are making contact through the control box.
When the bi-metal heats up it disconnects the ONE AC conductor causing the short from YELLOW/WHITE and bends and connects it to BLUE/WHITE.
Now YELLOW/WHITE has only one AC conductor attached and BLUE/WHITE has the other AC conductor attached.
After all this the 11 Ohm coil is now active and running.
Therefore the 11 Ohm coil is actually a running coil.

Until the BLUE/WHITE gets the other AC conductor from YELLOW/WHITE's short in the starting phase.
The 8 Ohm coil between BLUE and BLUE/WHITE is OFF.
After start the BLUE and BLUE/WHITE coil is on.
Therefore 8 Ohm coil is also a running coil.

By deductive reasoning that means that the 6 Ohm coil between BLUE and YELLOW/WHITE is the starting coil.
During the Short at YELLOW/WHITE during starting the BLUE has the Other AC conductor than the one causing the Short through the control box.
This means during starting the 6 Ohm coil between BLUE and YELLOW/WHITE is energized.
When the AC conductor causing the short is switched over to BLUE/WHITE both BLUE and YELLOW/WHITE now share the one single AC conductor.
This means the 6 Ohm coil is no longer energized and drops out of operation.
Therefore the 6 Ohm coil is the starter coil.

Now how does that BLACK inductive pickup or starter over one of these coils come into play? If that is figured out I think we have sussed this motor!


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

 

[absinthe]

Yep, sounds like what I might be facing.

I did some more doodling today at work during lunch break and thought up how to wire a two-conductor single-phase AC system to that triangle in a way that would make sense and I came up with the starter coil idea with one running coil idea. Triangle gives two combinations. That gives a starter coil + slow running speed and a starter coil + fast running speed.

I modified the drawing to include two ladder-diagrams depicting this idea and then emailed myself a scan of it to post up when I got home:
View attachment 29106

I'm going to run it past at least one AC Motor rewinder guy as a sanity test before I jump right in.

I'm thinking about the bi-metal warming and it would warm from conducting current to the starting coil? Would it not cool down and then re-connect the starting coil?

I'll have to now start looking at adding the influence of the switch box motor controller on my drawings so far and I might have sussed it all out, or at least give the rewinder a big grin when he sights what I came up with.

I am now guessing that the BLACK connector goes into an inductive pickup. This gives ?feedback? loop back into BLUE which connects to the 8ohm or 6ohm running coils which disrupts their ?magnetic fields? during starting. Once the ?bi-metal? connector heats up and disconnects the starter coil (guessing 11 ohm is it and what the inductive pickup goes over) then the AC current going to the running coil is no longer inductively disrupted and the coil functions as normal? --- again best guess at operations of a inductive starter motor so far that I have and all of this from deductive reasoning techniques.

I think bi-metal is an awesome idea. But if the starter coil is on momentarily then off then it looks like the RED/WHITE to WHITE bi-metal strip is an overload protector for the motor. When it gets to hot, it open momentarily letting it cool down a bit, then contacts and it overloads and it opens and cools down. And so on and so on ad nauseam.

The bottom connection has two WHITES connect to YELLOW/WHITE which is on the bigger 11 Ohm coil with one WHITE coming across a bi-metal thermal switch. This might cause an AC electrical short on purpose when the motor is first turned on the bi-metal strip heats up. As it bends and leaves the YELLOW/WHITE contact inside the box and it bends and moves onto BLUE/WHITE contact and energizes that point feeding into Running coils which come online momentarily after the starting coil has its chance to influence the motor. It keeps contact with BLUE/WHITE because its still transferring AC current and warming up how?

According to this theory of operation and the mapping of the control box:

The 11 Ohm coil starts OFF until the bi-metal heats up and energizes BLUE/WHITE.
It heats up because both AC conductors are making contact through the control box.
When the bi-metal heats up it disconnects the ONE AC conductor causing the short from YELLOW/WHITE and bends and connects it to BLUE/WHITE.
Now YELLOW/WHITE has only one AC conductor attached and BLUE/WHITE has the other AC conductor attached.
After all this the 11 Ohm coil is now active and running.
Therefore the 11 Ohm coil is actually a running coil.

Until the BLUE/WHITE gets the other AC conductor from YELLOW/WHITE's short in the starting phase.
The 8 Ohm coil between BLUE and BLUE/WHITE is OFF.
After start the BLUE and BLUE/WHITE coil is on.
Therefore 8 Ohm coil is also a running coil.

By deductive reasoning that means that the 6 Ohm coil between BLUE and YELLOW/WHITE is the starting coil.
During the Short at YELLOW/WHITE during starting the BLUE has the Other AC conductor than the one causing the Short through the control box.
This means during starting the 6 Ohm coil between BLUE and YELLOW/WHITE is energized.
When the AC conductor causing the short is switched over to BLUE/WHITE both BLUE and YELLOW/WHITE now share the one single AC conductor.
This means the 6 Ohm coil is no longer energized and drops out of operation.
Therefore the 6 Ohm coil is the starter coil.

Now how does that BLACK inductive pickup or starter over one of these coils come into play? If that is figured out I think we have sussed this motor!


Cheers,
Brewer Pete

i spoke to my father today (technition of 40 years including fridges, washing machines, tvs, vcrs, dvds, you name it) the contact that has 2 poles (the bottom one in your pics) is the start winding contactor and the top one is an overload one if the motor draws to much current it disconects the power and saves the day!! (or motor i should say)