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Yep, I was covering all bases and started to suspect the welds, the more I researched 304. But I did need to cover off that Peteru didn't just add a shit load of Cl to that particular brew.

Peteru, I would check out the internals of that weld as best you can. If there has been 'sugaring' then it will weaken the join and therefore won't be as strong as it should be. If there is obvious weld issues with a pressurized vessel then it is a defect and you SHOULD contact the retailer and have it returned as such.

All other people out there finding blackening on ANY keg, should also check the internal welds as best they can. Black crap in the beer is not the only issue that can arise from 'sugaring', but the integrity of the vessel COULD be affected.
 
"All other people out there finding blackening on ANY keg, should also check the internal welds as best they can. Black crap in the beer is not the only issue that can arise from 'sugaring', but the integrity of the vessel COULD be affected."


As a potential flaw with the product has been detected, shouldn't these be inspected before being sent to the buyers in the new bulk buy purchases?
 
My guess is a rudimentary pressure test would take place.

Jack, Husky et.al. to further
 
Yeah, I'm hoping that someone who knows more about SS welds and manufacturing processes can jump in and add a bit of expert knowledge. LC perhaps? But from what I have researched, it appears that the 'intergranular corrosion' I posted about can be caused by 'sugaring' of the welds (burning too hot with O2 present in too high concentrations) and the heat markings (discolouration). The black slag from the 'sugaring' itself should be manually chipped and ground off, before the nitric acid 'passivization process' takes place. Page 9 here

If that is not correctly done, then you could end up with something that will look like this.
poor clean of sugaring.jpg

Or if the chipping and grinding is not done properly and the acid passivization doesn't get to the affected internal area then it could look like this
Sugared welds internal not cleaned properly.jpg


I will add here that, my research and gut feeling on the black colour that a few people have found after cleaning with Sod.Perc or Phos.Acid or Peteru's devastating find, caused me to think it in may not be iron corrosion, but something that is well, black. Which made me think of the welds and my research shows this COULD be a cause. I note that people should check at this stage and not jump to conclusions that this is definitely the cause. Again I hope that LC or someone that might have seen this before could advise.
 
The black film:

I have never experienced black film in any of my kegs,I'm quite curious about it.

Length of time beer spends in mini keg :

I generally use my mini keg (4l) to condition /store and dispense the beer that doesn't fit in my corny so given that the beer is in the mini keg for a minimum of four weeks I think that oxidisation may be the culprit for folks suffering from foul beer.

Sodium percarbonate:

As far as I understand it is not recommended for contact with stainless steel. The ONLY cleaning agent I allow contact with the insides of my kegs is sodium metasilicate (brewers detergent) and the only sanitisers I use are phosphoric acid (for kegs to be naturally carbonated) and Iodophor (for kegs to be force carbonated)

Metallic flavour :

Generally when a metallic flavour is detected I connect to a clean beer line and tap for an immediate remedy and perform a cip on the offending tap and line.


Hope my 2 cents helps :)
 
I am sure that on either the Beerkat website or somewhere in the Beerkat thread it was mentioned that the kegs had been passivated but if peteru had laid his down then the weld around the neck may not have been, though I would imagine that they would all be submerged in the acid bath.
Further reading about the metallic taste and solutions is to do the passivating at home before using a new keg, or as the keg starts to produce the metallic taste. It has been covered on this site before a couple of years ago and John Palmer covers it in his, 'How to Brew' book.
http://www.beerandloafing.org/hbd/fetch.php?id=52083
 
Pildo - " Sodium percarbonate:

As far as I understand it is not recommended for contact with stainless steel. "



Interesting as to where you heard that, does a top job for me with no adverse problems.
 
Agree with grott, that may come as some surprise to many.
 
Peteru,

This is the neck weld of one of mine (Beerkat) and as you can see it is not bad. I did look at the internals (prior to perc clean, Starsan and filling with brew) and couldn't see any discolouration or weld marks that were visible, but most of the welds would not be visible without a mini camera on a flexi-cable.
DSC_2897.JPGDSC_2898.JPG


wide eyed and legless said:
I am sure that on either the Beerkat website or somewhere in the Beerkat thread it was mentioned that the kegs had been passivated but if peteru had laid his down then the weld around the neck may not have been, though I would imagine that they would all be submerged in the acid bath.
Further reading about the metallic taste and solutions is to do the passivating at home before using a new keg, or as the keg starts to produce the metallic taste. It has been covered on this site before a couple of years ago and John Palmer covers it in his, 'How to Brew' book.
http://www.beerandloafing.org/hbd/fetch.php?id=52083
Yes one would expect passivization to have occurred to some degree, otherwise they would look bloody rough. It is the thoroughness of post weld clean and 'pickling' (acid bath) of the internal surfaces before passivization occurs that is in question with my hypothesis.

I can seen from the outside of my kegs that passivization did occur, but when one looks as Peteru's neck weld and some of the clean up on mine below one can see that even on the externals that have been ground down and acid treated, there are some interesting welds (Peteru's) and black chromium carbide marks left that were not cleaned with grinding and acid wash properly so therefore passivization did not occur for those spots.

This is one of my two mini-kegs showing a black weld mark in a divot (I assume this is chromium carbide from the weld). It is a sign that the acid pickling did not clean that divot. This is external, so if it is similar on the internal then that black carbide will leach into my beer or when I treat it with acid (one would expect if the outside was missed, then the inside may well be the same or worse). There is also some discolouration from heat around some of the spot welds that were not removed by pickling. Nothing terrible, but worrying that the inside might not have been checked at all.

From top
DSC_2896.JPG
From side, same divot continues down side.
DSC_2899.JPG

Areas on the outside were missed, so I then question whether the inside was done thoroughly or not. A black film isn't a common indicator for corrosion of SS, so it must have come from somewhere. As chromium carbide can be caused by welding and is black and would be disolved by acidic solutions (beer included) it is a likely candidate. There have been a few who have posted about black films after Acid use or beer being left in the keg for a while, so this also fits chromium carbide as a candidate. A metallic taste would also fit it as a candidate. The only thing I could conceivably think of was that some of the welding produced intergranular corrosion, which if you read the links to my early posts indicates that if not removed cleanly, can cause structural integrity issues with the steel with further corrosion (worse than pitting corrosion). Given these are pressurized vessels then if that corrosion continues over time then this could conceivably be an issue.

You can passivate those welds all you want, but when crevices and ridges are present in stainless, then future corrosion is invited, just like scratches and crevices hide bacteria in a plastic fermenter, scratches and crevices in SS invite corrosive substances to lodge, despite rinsing and they can remove the protective layer and cause pitting corrosion.

In short, if the SS is not shiny, it will corrode. If it is not smooth, then far more care needs to be taken when rinsing out. This can be passivized at home as you say, but when the potential corrosion issue is out of vision, how often should it be passivized and what damage has been done prior. To a pot or non-pressurized vessel this is not such a worry and can be lived with. To a certain extent so too could it be fine in this case, but there may well be a batch or a particular welder at the factory that can't do their job properly, which should be identified.

I for one will be checking both of my mini-kegs' internal surfaces with a small mirror and flash light as soon as they are empty of beer.
 
I think the welding would be done on an automatic welding machine, I doubt there is any high production items being welded manually nowadays especially anything that is round.
The paragraph in the linked article he says he leaves them dry and open for a couple of weeks for natural repassivation, maybe that or a chemical repassivation should be tried first before warranty claims are put in.
 
No, first the problem needs to be identified, before any warranty claim is put in. Mine is an educated guess until someone can confirm. But on the re-passivization, I argue that it may not be effective if there is sugaring that has not been physically chipped away and pickle cleaned first. We are talking about brand new items sold for brewing as 304 SS that are producing a black film or metallic appearance and taste in peoples beers. They should not need re-passivization by the buyer. Jeez, what kind of world do we live in where that would be acceptable. Surely it would not be accepted by you if you had bought one that was turning your beer black.
 
I did a simple finger test today. Stuck my finger inside the minikeg near the neck weld. I gently rubbed my finger against the side that seems to have good welding and it came out clean. I repeated the same thing on the side that has the black crevice. My finger came out with a black line on it. I repeated the same exercise with a clean white tissue. Again, one side comes out clean, the other side leaves a black metallic looking mark on the tissue.

The weld also felt different. The clean side felt like two surfaces meeting, but with a slight gap between them. The side that marked black felt "filled-in" and perhaps slightly bulgy. I wish I had a small inspection camera so that I could take a look inside. I don't seem to have anything else that I could use to look in there.

I shone a torch inside and had a look at the bottom and side wall welds. The joints look reasonably clean and have been ground. The finish is definitely nowhere near the quality on the inside when compared to the outside. You can clearly see the weld, a slightly darker strip in the middle, then shiny, then slight discolouration on each side of the weld on the side wall. It's a bit harder to evaluate the bottom weld, but again, it seems to have been cleaned up enough to not have any horrid looking crud on it.

I think the welds at the top may be the problem area. Presumably the top part is welded last and therefore would be the hardest to clean up properly. I suppose if you fill below the weld mark and keep the minikeg upright, you reduce the risk of contamination. If it's full and lying on the side, you are going to get the full effect.

I think that we are narrowing down the possible source of the issue, mainly thanks to Jack of all biers doing the research - thanks!
 
Well, maybe I'll just throw in a curve ball. I decided to see what would happen if I clean the keg as best as I can...

1. 10mL of Keg King phosphoric sanitiser (50% phosphoric acid, 15% sulphonic acid) diluted with 20mL filtered water. Into minikeg, shake for about 3 minutes. Rinse repeatedly until there is no foaming when keg with water is shaken.

2. 3g of 100% sodium percarbonate dissolved in 500mL of water. Shake for about 5 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. Let drip dry for about 10 minutes.

3. One tablespoon of uncooked rice and 200mL of filtered tap water. Add to minikeg and shake vigorously for 5 minutes. (I use this method to clean out kids drink bottles and other containers where some mechanical cleaning is required, but you just can't get in.) Pour resulting liquid into glass and be horrified by the results.

Simple enough test for anyone to try on their minikeg.


Minikeg_cleaning_liquid.jpg

I'll rinse and have another pass, to see if it improves...
 
If that is your result, you should really contact your retailer and start a conversation. This is a food grade product and that is not acceptable. Keep it polite and explain, with photos, how you discovered your issue.
 
From what I have read kegs are called for a thorough cleaning and passivising before use, like with Grainfather, BM etc new products do require a clean to be rid of the oils and such from the manufacturing, maybe the two sales (BB & BK)were from different manufacturers looking like the Bulk Buy's have been a hit and miss with the purchasers.
Just glad I didn't pull the trigger on my purchase after reading all the problems encountered.

From the previous thread.
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/82943-keg-king-new-corny-kegs-metallic-taste/
 
Mark will be all over that like a rash. He would probably have replaced it as soon as you told him you were concerned but now you have plenty to go on.

Hopefully you take a cutting disc to the current one and show us the problem.
 
grott said:
Pildo - " Sodium percarbonate:

As far as I understand it is not recommended for contact with stainless steel. "



Interesting as to where you heard that, does a top job for me with no adverse problems.
It states so on the product packaging and the MSDS states that it is highly reactive with metals
 
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