Manifold Advice

[the_fuzz]

Hey Guys,

Ok so it has been firmly established that I'm a tool tard, but I must admit it feels awesome when you do actually build something yourself B)

Now, I got myself a 33Ltr Willow Esky from Woolworths for $33.00 (Granville (near parramatta), they had about 15 left).

The esky doesn't have a drain plug - So i need to obviously drill a hole - my question, what size hole?

I have a 3 piece 1/4" ball valve that I picked up from a mate.

My questions are, considering I have a 1/4" ball valve, when I go to bunnings this afternoon, what do I have to buy to build a manifold?

i.e. what size nuts, nipples etc, "pipe", T pieces etc?

I already have the braid from a "hooker", but when I was in bunnings yesterday, there is an aisle of plumbing gear and I started to get really confused........... h34r:

Like when I looked at the cooper T sections, they are not threaded so how would I join them the my manifold?

The idea I am going for is the braid in a rectangle type shape going back into a T piece

Any help is greatly appreciated guy :beer:

 

[TerritoryBrew]

Try this quick search in Google...

rectangular esky conversion site:www.aussiehomebrewer.com

Or there is this site too...

http://www.ipass.net/mpdixon/Homebrew/MashTun.html

Both will give you some good results to go on with. Any further questions just ask.

Reece

 

[Gulf Brewery]

Hi WWWH

I think 1/4" is too small because a small piece of grain or husk could block it. I would put a 1/2" piece of threaded pipe through the side of the esky. Bunnings sells brass threaded pipe in various lengths.

Cheers
Pedro

 

[domonsura]

yep. 1/4" WAY to small. Asking for problems. I'd suggest nothing smaller than 1/2" reduced bore, preferably full bore. That way if you get a blockage, it's not likely to be in the back of the ball valve.

 

[sah]

Hi WWWH,

I think most people who use stainless braid from an easy hooker use only a straight piece clamped at the non-attached end. Although I have see a single length fashioned in a circle for a Gott cooler and joined to a copper t-piece with hose clamps.

If you are committed to a rectangular manifold I suggest you use 1/2" (15mm) copper pipe and fittings. It'll be better if you get shorter ends soldered together as a piece. Cleaning will be easier.

John Palmer demonstrates in "How to Brew" that a rectangular manifold at given spacings is more efficient for a fly sparge tun. However, if you are going to batch sparge as it seems most home brewers do these days, then you will probably be satisfied with a simple straight length of braid.

regards,
Scott

 

[Aaron]

This article explains how I put my manifold together. It is a pretty simple procedure and may be of some use to you. It's not the only way and may not be the best method but it worked for me.