Malt pipe ideas.

[sluggerdog]

On my previous system I did what you are talking about but I used an ikea splatter guard for the mesh because they are only a couple of dollars
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/index.php?/topic/68324-QldKev%27s-New-Biab-With-Internal-Rims/page__view__findpost__p__1289831

I'm planning to cut my handles off the big w pot today, I wasn't sure what was the best way to attack this? Is it possible to get the whole handle off or do I cut it either side of the handles leaving the square attachment each side on the pot?

 

[dropbear85]

I just hit it with an angle grinder and got as close to the pot as I could

 

[sluggerdog]

I just hit it with an angle grinder and got as close to the pot as I could

OK thanks. I'll see how I go. I'll be copying your design quite closely. The only difference will be that I'm using a centre wort overflow pipe with a 6 inch bazooka (ontop of a 6 inch stainless tube so the bazooka is the top half of the malt pipe), this will give it a little more filtering / flow in additional to the splatter screen plus better flow over my crown urn concealed element to prevent scorching.


I'm not sure at the moment how to attach a handle to the malt pipe again, something I can use to lft but also hang the malt pipe while it drains.

 

[SBOB]

I'll try to get an exploded view of the adjustable bit.
Started with 3/4 and 1/2 inch pipe and a number of compression fittings and ended up a lot simpler!
The 3/4 was substituted with 1/2 threaded tube, one 1/2 compression fitting and a 13 mm drill bit to drill through the compression fitting so the 1/2 pipe would slide though.

any chance of a pic of this, as its not making sense in my head when I try and and visualize it

 

[dropbear85]

OK thanks. I'll see how I go. I'll be copying your design quite closely. The only difference will be that I'm using a centre wort overflow pipe with a 6 inch bazooka (ontop of a 6 inch stainless tube so the bazooka is the top half of the malt pipe), this will give it a little more filtering / flow in additional to the splatter screen plus better flow over my crown urn concealed element to prevent scorching.


I'm not sure at the moment how to attach a handle to the malt pipe again, something I can use to lft but also hang the malt pipe while it drains.

I had a couple of holes at the top of the pipe which I connected a couple of carribenas to to lift it out

 

[sluggerdog]

I had a couple of holes at the top of the pipe which I connected a couple of carribenas to to lift it out

That's a good idea. Thanks

How did you put the holes in your splatter screen? I just tried drilling them to match the holes in the pot. I ripped the screen to shreds. Will have to get another and try again.

 

[dropbear85]

hmm I didn't have any problems.. I think I drilled them when the mesh was still on the steel ring so it would hold its shape. I think I also put a block of wood underneath it so I had something to drill into. you could probably just make a hole with a screw if you really wanted.
I grabbed about three of them when I went because I thought I would stuff a few up before I was happy.

I have been collecting parts for a double batch system for a while and with the malt pipe for that one I am going to use one of these things from ikea to cut a heap of holes in the bottom instead if an angle grinder because I found that I got a bit of surface rust in the cuts.
[http://m.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/art/90176820//URL]
no big deal but just something I will change when I get around to finishing it.
I will also be using this stuff as a filter [URL="http://au.rs-online.com/mobil...com/mobile/p/perforated-steel-sheets/1828360/ since the splatter guards are too small for the pot I will be using. it's a little expensive but I'm not in a rush since I got a Robobrew.

 

[nala]

That's a good idea. Thanks
How did you put the holes in your splatter screen? I just tried drilling them to match the holes in the pot. I ripped the screen to shreds. Will have to get another and try again.

I find it hard to believe some of your questions !
I posted pictures to try to help you with all of your questions,if you look again at the pictures that I posted on page 1 you will see on the centre picture the Big W pot, malt pipe as you call it,has 4 all thread bolts attached near to the top of the pot,these serve 2 purposes...a,to centralize the pot/malt pipe, b, as an aid to lift the pot.
What the picture does not show is 3 all thread bolts used as feet to hold the pot off the bottom of the outer pot.
I cannot see the use for splatter guards,look at the 12 inch false bottom which is domed,the centre hole of the false bottom is used for the purpose of holding it to the bottom of the malt pipe using an all thread bolt plus a large washer and nut to secure it. When you mention scorching the bottom of your Crown concealed element boiler, if the malt pipe is suspended by the 3 feet on the bottom,how is possible to have scorching ?
If you are prepared to pay the postage,I will give you my malt pipe as shown in the picture,I used this for 3 years and gave me great results, never had a stuck mash and created a recirculating system as good as you can get.
Before you go any further with your efforts, ask yourself what it is that are trying to achieve !
Splatter guards and bazooka screens are not necessary, remember that when mashing the speed of wort passing through your malt pipe is based on perculation not suction,many factors will affect perculation, not least of which is both the quantity of grain and the courseness or porosity of the grain bed,I can only see your efforts failing because you are trying to use splatter guards and bazooka's to filter the grain and not the grain bed itself.

 

[sluggerdog]

I find it hard to believe some of your questions !
I posted pictures to try to help you with all of your questions,if you look again at the pictures that I posted on page 1 you will see on the centre picture the Big W pot, malt pipe as you call it,has 4 all thread bolts attached near to the top of the pot,these serve 2 purposes...a,to centralize the pot/malt pipe, b, as an aid to lift the pot.
What the picture does not show is 3 all thread bolts used as feet to hold the pot off the bottom of the outer pot.
I cannot see the use for splatter guards,look at the 12 inch false bottom which is domed,the centre hole of the false bottom is used for the purpose of holding it to the bottom of the malt pipe using an all thread bolt plus a large washer and nut to secure it. When you mention scorching the bottom of your Crown concealed element boiler, if the malt pipe is suspended by the 3 feet on the bottom,how is possible to have scorching ?
If you are prepared to pay the postage,I will give you my malt pipe as shown in the picture,I used this for 3 years and gave me great results, never had a stuck mash and created a recirculating system as good as you can get.
Before you go any further with your efforts, ask yourself what it is that are trying to achieve !
Splatter guards and bazooka screens are not necessary, remember that when mashing the speed of wort passing through your malt pipe is based on perculation not suction,many factors will affect perculation, not least of which is both the quantity of grain and the courseness or porosity of the grain bed,I can only see your efforts failing because you are trying to use splatter guards and bazooka's to filter the grain and not the grain bed itself.

Thanks, maybe I have been looking at it from the wrong direction. I've been BIAB'n for the last few years, I was trying to replicate the bag with a malt pipe which is why I have been looking into the tiny filter holes, same as my bag. I hadn't planned to use any false bottom but maybe this is what I need, a false bottom like you have instead of what I have currently setup. ( if that's something your willing to offer?)

This is where I got to today: center hole drilled, 4 stainless bolt legs drilled out and the handles cut out. I have put it together at the moment for display purposes, tomorrow I have planned to cut out the 4 triangle from the bottom as dropbear has shown his did so it would have the explosed splatter screen. At the moment inside the pot I have the splatter screen with my existing crown urn false bottom on top seeing I already had it, I figured it would give me more support between the grain and the splatter screen.


BOTTOM (missing the triangle cutouts)

INSIDE

OUTSIDE

Thanks again

 

[VP Brewing]

Have you thought about cutting lots of slits in the bottom with a 4inch grinder?
I've done it to 56L pot for my rig and there is easily enough flow through the grain bed. The idea was stolen off Qld Kevs 1V build and a few others have done similar. The pic isn't the best but you should get the idea.

 

[sluggerdog]

Have you thought about cutting lots of slits in the bottom with a 4inch grinder?
I've done it to 56L pot for my rig and there is easily enough flow through the grain bed. The idea was stolen off Qld Kevs 1V build and a few others have done similar. The pic isn't the best but you should get the idea.

ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1448358962.773379.jpg

ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1448358998.824224.jpg

I had thought about it in the past from other posts but wasn't sure how well I could do it with my limited skill set.

Maybe I'll give this a go today, I guess if I try and fail I may still be able to cut out the triangles from the pot anyway as I had planned. I guess if this does work for me then it's a better solution then the splatter screen.

Thanks

 

[sluggerdog]

I had thought about it in the past from other posts but wasn't sure how well I could do it with my limited skill set.

Maybe I'll give this a go today, I guess if I try and fail I may still be able to cut out the triangles from the pot anyway as I had planned. I guess if this does work for me then it's a better solution then the splatter screen.

Thanks

So I tried to cut the slits today and failed. I only have a multi tool so gave that a go. It wouldn't cut through even with my new metal disc. Went off to bunnings and masters. Both didn't have any discs that would do the job.

I'm guessing to do this right I need an angle grinder with a special cutting disc for stainless? It's probably adding up beyond the costs I'm willing to out lay. May need to stick with the bag unless I can find another solution.

Thanks for the help for those involved.

 

[billygoat]

These photos show the BigW pot that I use in my single vessel system.
I used a 4 inch grinder with a 1 mm cutting disc. Not sure what a grinder costs these days but the discs are only a few dollars and I only used one disc so not overly expensive even if you have to buy a grinder.

Don't get too hung up on flow through your grain bed/pot.
I originally didn't get a lot of flow so I cut more slots and drilled holes. Got heaps more flow but efficiency didn't change neither did the quality of the beer which I was happy with anyway.

 

[VP Brewing]

I used a 4inch grinder with a thin disk. Then put one of those flap disks on to smooth off any rough bits. Both disks were brand new so the stainless wouldn't get contaminated.
Do you know anyone that might have one you could borrow? The disks are cheap and should only have to borrow it for half an hour if you have your lines marked out already.

 

[SBOB]

These photos show the BigW pot that I use in my single vessel system.
I used a 4 inch grinder with a 1 mm cutting disc. Not sure what a grinder costs these days but the discs are only a few dollars and I only used one disc so not overly expensive even if you have to buy a grinder.

Don't get too hung up on flow through your grain bed/pot.
I originally didn't get a lot of flow so I cut more slots and drilled holes. Got heaps more flow but efficiency didn't change neither did the quality of the beer which I was happy with anyway.

Malt Pipe 1.jpg

Malt Pipe 2.jpg

such symmetry

 

[billygoat]

such symmetry

I used a protractor and a compass.
No phone apps or fancy stuff.

 

[sluggerdog]

I used a 4inch grinder with a thin disk. Then put one of those flap disks on to smooth off any rough bits. Both disks were brand new so the stainless wouldn't get contaminated.
Do you know anyone that might have one you could borrow? The disks are cheap and should only have to borrow it for half an hour if you have your lines marked out already.

I started asking around last night. Will find someone with one soon enough.

I'm guessing this is the kind of cutting disc I would need to do the job properly?

http://www.bunnings.com.au/makita-100-x-1-x-16mm-cutting-disc_p6310142

Thanks

 

[Mattrox]

This arrived in the mail. Slowly edging closer to starting to put things together.

 

[SBOB]

ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1449873559.665740.jpg

This arrived in the mail. Slowly edging closer to starting to put things together.

I just got one from china for my big-w pot also... did you go a 25cm one?

 

[Mattrox]

I just got one from china for my big-w pot also... did you go a 25cm one?

Yes. It is the 25cm one. I think it leaves room for legs on the rim.