Light Malt Extract

[bluejed]

Hi all,
I am relatively new to brewing, attempted a few years ago but lost interest due to inconsistant and poor procedures, I am about to put down a brew with Coopers Real Ale and 100% dry light malt. I have read that dry malt should be boiled prior to adding, is this recommended and what effect would this have on the brew?

Additionally would 1KG of Malt be suitable or do I need to substitue with some Dextrose, I do have some Hops (not sure what kind) if this helps?

Thanks..

 

[CDJ]

I usually dissolve the DME in hot water because is easier, and then boil for a couple of minutes. This would not affect your beer. I also read that you must boil it to kill the nasties but not sure about that (I still do it anyway) - perhaps someone else can comment on that.

I rather go all the way DME for an ale, and use some dextrose if you run out of DME and want to increase the alc %.

 

[tcraig20]

I also read that you must boil it to kill the nasties but not sure about that (I still do it anyway) - perhaps someone else can comment on that.

Ive never boiled DME, and never had an infection using DME.

That's not to say that it cant happen - maybe Ive just been lucky.

 

[manticle]

I'd be super surprised if anyone got an infection from not boiling Dried malt extract straight from the packet.

The reasons for boiling to my mind are:

-helps dissolve the malt and avoid clumps. Clumps will dissolve in the brew later but may give false gravity readings until they do.

-helps up gravity if adding hops to a boil. Hop extraction is supposedly better at around 1040 from what I've heard and that requires something other than water.

It will have no other effect on the brew - boiled or not it will still behave the same during ferment. The only other thing to be aware of with boiling malt is to makes ure it doesn't stick (attention and occasional but regular stirring are key)

Malt is not as fermentable as dextrose so in order to achieve the same abv you would need more (something between 1.25 and 1.5 from memory - there are calculators and formulae available - google this). Malt will also give sweetness and body so some dex can be good to help with attenuation and balance. It really depends on how you envision the end result.

What are you planning to do with the hops and can you find out what kind they are?

 

[bluejed]

What are you planning to do with the hops and can you find out what kind they are?
[/quote]

Thanks all for the feedback, I have just retreved from the shed, they are Hersbrucker with Alpha acid; 3 -5.5%, the pack says Traditional German larger hop.
I was looking at a short boil to add flavour, not that keen on to much bittering in this ale.

 

[svyturys]

Hi all,
I am relatively new to brewing, attempted a few years ago but lost interest due to inconsistant and poor procedures, I am about to put down a brew with Coopers Real Ale and 100% dry light malt. I have read that dry malt should be boiled prior to adding, is this recommended and what effect would this have on the brew?

Additionally would 1KG of Malt be suitable or do I need to substitue with some Dextrose, I do have some Hops (not sure what kind) if this helps?

Thanks..

I agree with all the other posts.

The basic thing here is to look at the instructions that come with a basic Coopers kit. Essentially they say throw the can and the box into the fermenter and add two litres of boiling water.
Then they say to add a BE2 "box" to make better beer. So, according to Coopers it's OK to throw a can and a box of BE2 into the fermenter. BE2 has some malt in it. These guys err toward caution like nobody else..."ferment between 21 and 27" is a joke here.
So, malt straight into the fermenter is no problem, and as Manticle inferred, the only problem is that you might have to do a lot of stirring to get rid of the clumps.
That does help with aeration, though.

Now the Coopers Real Ale is not a bad little drop as a K&K.
I've done two. Both were with BE2 and Goldings (25g) steeped and added before pitching the yeast.
Your recipe uses a kilo of malt instead of BE2. (End result would be sweeter) Also your hops are fairly low in alpha acids, (bittering). Offhand I wouldn't say no to doing a short boil with your hops.
In the long run if your brewing techniques are OK then the experiment will end up with a good beer. (Hersbrucker is not a hop I am am familiar with but the Real Ale kit has a lot going for it so, in the end, it's up to your taste buds.

Cheers

 

[glaab]

if it's the Coopers DME it clumps REAL bad. First time I added it to a fermenter with 2l boiling water
I was there for over half an hour trying to dissolve the clumps which look like nougat. It's easier if you add it to cold water and bring it to the boil. Othe rthan that , I like the Real Ale but if you just use malt only with it it will probably be so malty you'll struggle to drink it. I made it once with only adding a 1.5kg can of LME and it was like drinking golden syrup. You either gotta add bittering or use less malt
and add some dex or something else. Cheers

 

[Pennywise]

I actually find the Real Ale goop quite bitter for what it is, the only way I'd make it is with all malt and a a touch of your favorite hops for say a 5-10 min boil and dry hop. Although I only ever used 1kg of dry malt so maybe that touch extra put it over the top for you.

 

[bluejed]

Thanks for all the assistance, I think I will keep it simple and go with Coopers real ale, 1kg DME, 250g Dextrose and maintain temp at 18oC for 2 weeks, cold condition for a week and bottle :icon_drunk: .

I have Nottingham yeast, i have been told this is a clean hardworking yeast with very neutral tones (if any)