KK - 'Fermentasaurus' conical PET fermenter

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ATM I suspect a lot of people are buying them who couldn't (for some reason) use the original Fermentasaurus, hence the rush of sales. After KL finally release the gen 2, and the initial rush is over to get hold of those, it will be interesting to see which of the 3 (original, snub, or zilla) sells the best.

Long term will be the true test (as it usually is).
I think the size would have been a negative with the original, the cost of the snubnose would also be a major factor for its popularity. As for the Fermentasaurus 3 the question would have to be asked will it ferment any better than the snubnose or the Fermentasaurus 1, I would say no, so it will remain to be seen what advantages it will bring.
 
Which sprinklers are they?
They are about $5 at the Big Green Shed, I just adjust the spray it gets all sides, simple is good. You could rig it up to a pump if you wanted to use a solution but I have found do this first to get rid of the crusty stuff then wash it out by hand.
 

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Having the extra head space and letting the yeast do its stuff is a plus, if someone wants to pressure ferment cap it after 2 days, still plenty of co2 to get to pressure. This is the pic I posted of the fermentation after pitching dry yeast on to an zero aerated/oxygenated wort.
View attachment 115347 Both fermenters got the krausen all the way to the top.
Did you cap after two days and then put a spunding valve on or just leave it as is having capped?

If you used a SV then what PSI did you set it to to allow for some self carbonation?
 
I don't bother with pressure fermenting most of my beers are English style I want the esters coming through if you are making American style hop forward beer then cap and take it up to 15 psi for carbonating. You will need a spunding valve, I have seen this one in action and I would say it is the best on the market.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SPUNDit...m41de508c87:g:WBAAAOSwX2xav0Q0&frcectupt=true
Or this https://www.ikegger.com/products/di...135028657&mc_cid=b676e4389b&mc_eid=ef7b1f5a25 or this https://www.kegland.com.au/blowtie-diaphragm-spunding-valve-kit.html yeh, you don't have to be a rocket scientist "chuckles"
 
No you don't have to be a rocket scientist but knowledge of the two spunding valves is an advantage.:)
The Spundit can hold a low pressure, the gauge (which is not a $2.00 jobbie) cannot be damaged or blocked should any krausen get into the system, and the adjustment is a fine thread adjustment for better control, it can also be monitored with a phone app
 
Certainly looks the goods and appears to be a quality product, but at $101.00 (the postage kills it) it becomes a hard sell.
 
Guess what, keg king will be stocking the spundit [emoji15]
 
I doubt it first off it has a patent, second how could they compete with an eBay seller, who is not a wholesaler.

Read the fermentasaurus users group on Facebook, will fiala has stated that keg king will have the spundit valves in stock by the end of April !
 
I recently bought the snub nose (and bought a Kegmaster fridge at the same time). I was keen on closed transfers and also moving from bottling to kegging.

Because one of the selling points of the snub was to ferment, carbonate and serve all in the one vessel, my plan is to try serving directly out of primary. But mostly I'll be transferring each fermented batch into 2 kegs for conditioning (because I split my batches with a mate).

My first batch, a schwarzbier, went in at the weekend.

The snubby was extremely easy to move when filled with 23L. There was a lot of cold break in the cone (which there also would have been when using my old HDPE fermenters, but I wouldn't usually be able to see, and albeit with slightly less contact surface area in the snubby than in HDPE). After about 48-72 hours I could see a layer of yeast (way more than I'd pitched) had formed on top of the cold break stuff.

I did notice that when you put the spunding valve on the gas disconnect you can't actually fit it on to the lid's post due to the height not fitting under the roof of the Kegmaster series 4 firdge. So I guess I'll need to either buy a SS disconnect (which angles out at 90 degrees) or see if I can attach a bit of hosing between the disconnect and the spunding valve to make it fit. Anyway that was slightly annoying and you'd think they'd sell you something that actually works out of the box. But overall I'm very happy with it all.

I'm a bit clueless about fermenting under pressure. I'm not particularly interested pressure fermenting, moreso just the closed system and keeping oxygen away. I assume I'm meant to have the spunding valve attached during ferment? My initial plan is to just keep periodically releasing pressure (via the safety pin) until the ferment is complete, then pressure transfer half to a 9.5L keg for safe keeping, while briefly lagering the remainder before serving it off the yeast cake directly out of the snub.
 
I should also say that the amount of cold break surprised me, and I'm assuming it's down to the fact I use a counter-flow chiller.
 
Always best to leave all the break and hop material in the kettle. The Fermentasaurus 3 would be the better option if you are putting the trub into the fermenter, supereasy to dump the trub.
 
I might just use a HDPE container for that from now on; ie let it settle out in a container before pouring it into the snub before oxygenating and pitching yeast.

I've done the same (but using 2 x HDPE containers) before for stuff I was particularly worried about (eg kolsch). At the same time I've not bothered with a heaps of other batches and the beers have still turned out great. I've just been blissfully unaware of how much trub there was until I could see it clearly through the clear plastic of the snub.
 

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