You are either doing a lot of beer or using too much. This stuff is quite concentrated and it seems like you are getting through 20 tubs much faster then the average joe. Are you runinng a brewery?
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You are either doing a lot of beer or using too much. This stuff is quite concentrated and it seems like you are getting through 20 tubs much faster then the average joe. Are you runinng a brewery?
Only a home brewery. I would have bought the StellarClean about 3 years ago. 2019/9/28 is stamped on the bottom of the container. I use probably 120L per brew. A 40L esky for hoses, stainless fittings, hop spider and mash screen. 15 Litres for Fermzilla fittings and I soak my Fermzilla and thermowell in my 65L Digiboil/Biol pot
Ballaratguy
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I modified my Guten 50Lt (and a Guten 40Lt) to run on the grainfather control box. Has made them a bloody awesome unit
Very easy to do
keithfarmerwa
Member
Thanks for the response, my only question on the temp controller is, would that not just give me on/off of the heating element with no variable wattage?
I dont see anywhere in the menu to set the output, this is important to me as i only have a single 15A supply to my shed (16A RCD) so i normally run my boiler for sparge water during the mash when the Guten is only running at say 800W.
Yes if you wanted to allow for power control the 15amp Temp Controller Box would not really give you this control level.
What are the sizes of the elements in the guten at the moment? Does it have 1 2 or three separate elements? What wattage is each element?
keithfarmerwa
Member
I believe it is a single stage 3000w element.
Brewmerang
Active Member
I have a big problem with my DigigBoil. I have completed 31 brews with it and it has always worked perfectly.
But today it stopped working!
When raising the temperature for the boil, the lights on the element switches went out even though they were switched on. I noticed that the 500W element was not working, so I proceeded with just the 1900W element, but it gave out also at about 80C. I switched it off for a while, and when I switched it on again, it was working (minus the lights). Got it up to boiling temp and through the hot break, but it only lasted a few minutes before failing again. I tried a few things but it would only work for a minute or two after each time turning it off and back on again.
Any suggestions as to what the problem is or how to fix this.
I haven't taken it apart yet to have a look. I'm pretty handy with a multimeter and a soldering iron. but it would be helpful if someone could point me in the right direction first.
But today it stopped working!
When raising the temperature for the boil, the lights on the element switches went out even though they were switched on. I noticed that the 500W element was not working, so I proceeded with just the 1900W element, but it gave out also at about 80C. I switched it off for a while, and when I switched it on again, it was working (minus the lights). Got it up to boiling temp and through the hot break, but it only lasted a few minutes before failing again. I tried a few things but it would only work for a minute or two after each time turning it off and back on again.
Any suggestions as to what the problem is or how to fix this.
I haven't taken it apart yet to have a look. I'm pretty handy with a multimeter and a soldering iron. but it would be helpful if someone could point me in the right direction first.
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Hey Brewmerang. This is not something that we have heard of before. The only issues we generally hear with the digiboil is if the boil dry has been triggered. Sometimes the boil dry sensor is triggered when a pile of sugar or some other solid is on the element. This often causes the element to get slightly hotter than it would normally with water/wort on the element and thus triggeres the boil dry sensor. With that said if this happens it will turn off both elements at the same time.
If you saw one element go and then the second element go the next step would be to open the base, and with the switches all off check the resistance over the elements to check they they are still ok.
that's a bit annoying. If it's one single 3000watt element the power control will not work that well. I am a bit surprised they have made this with just one large 3000watt element not a couple or a few small elements wired together. If that is the case and it's just one element I then there is not really a good way to make the power control work well so maybe the 15amp temp controller option might be an easier way to go.
clickeral
Well-Known Member
How far is the run to the shed? if its 2.5mm cable you might be able to go up to a 20amp RCBO which would give you a little more power (obviously speak to a sparky)
If your wanting a power control option a PID controller like EZboil for Boiling, Step Mashing, and Low Oxygen (LODO) Brewing DSPR320 EZBoil Controller for Boiling, Step Mashing, and Low Oxygen (LODO) Brewing [DSPR320A] - $72.50 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry might be the go
keithfarmerwa
Member
I wll pull the bottom off of it tonight and let you know, do you need coil resitance readings too?
sixfignig
Well-Known Member
@KegLand-com-au
Looking to use the temp twister coil with Duotight fitting to make a small volume HERMS.
These are temp rated to over 100C right? No issues with passing ~75C wort through these during a recirculation mash?
Looking to use the temp twister coil with Duotight fitting to make a small volume HERMS.
These are temp rated to over 100C right? No issues with passing ~75C wort through these during a recirculation mash?
Brewmerang
Active Member
Thanks for the swift reply.
Upon opening the base, it was immediately obvious that there was an electrical 'blowout' at the active end of the 1900W element. Both the spade connector on the red (active) wire and the bridge between the two elements were melted off. What would cause this?
I temporarily connected the active wire to the 500W element to find it was working and both of the switch LEDs were were working again.
Unfortunately my multimeter isn't working so I don't really know what's happened at this point. I guess the 1900W element shorted and is cactus.
Any suggestions?
Danni Borchmann
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The Kegland fill o meter. Can you use it for carbonated beer? would like to adjust my fill level more precise.
Yes there is no issue with putting 100C water through the duotight fittings. The EVABarrier tubing definitely will not handle the temperature.
We do have the BrewBuilt stainless fermenters in stock. Do you mean these ones?
If that has happened please send the photos to our customer service team with your invoice number. Sounds like it could be a warranty claim. I have not heard of this type of issue before so it's hard to say without getting more information to us.
Flux
Member
I just tried to submit an order and it wouldn't go through on the chrome browser. It worked when i swapped to edge though.
Brewmerang
Active Member
Thanks for your reply and advice.
I purchased the DigiBoil in late 2019 so it is no longer under warranty.
After speaking with one of your colleagues on the phone, I decided to repair the burnt out connection.
The screw which holds the connectors seemed to be fused and could not be removed, so I wrapped everything in bare multi strand 10A copper wire and soldered it all together.
I tested it with just 6L of water and it maintained a sustained rolling boil with both elements working.
However, I have a concern that I'm hoping that you you (or anyone reading this) may be able to help me with.
What caused the burn out at this connection in first place? - I want to prevent it happening again.
Also, (it may be consequential) although a vigorous boil was evident, the temperature reading on the display never rose above 97C.
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