Typo - I think you meant Home Brewing Supplies and Home Brewing Kits
KegLand Questions and Answers
- Thread starter KegLand-com-au
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Just had a suggestion for kegland around packaging, I'm guessing a lot of it comes from the manufacturers but is there any way you could try and reduce the amount of plastic packaging? Particularly for click and collect orders.......I picked up a couple of the PET 8L kegs last week and they had about 6ft of bubble wrap, and a plastic posting bag, along with every duotight fitting and carb cap having and individual zip lock bag.
It makes sense to bubble wrap postage orders but for click and collect I would think sticking it all in the cardboard box would be protection enough?
I know the items are food grade so people might want them individually bagged, but they all need washing before use anyway so it seems a bit excessive - just my opinion though
Not trying to bag you out or anything (pun definitely intended), just wanted to ask the question - keep up the good service!
Thanks
Yes I would totally agree with that. Is there any chance that you can send me your order number? I will follow this up with the staff member in the warehouse who packed the order. Normally pickup orders should not require any packaging like this so I think one of our staff have made a mistake.
I would agree that we need to look at ways of reducing the amount of packaging.
Yorkie88
Active Member
If that's the policy then that's all good - don't want to get anyone in any trouble for something trivial!
Glad to hear you are already on board with the packaging reduction (something that is definitely not limited to kegland!)
That is ok. Nobody is in trouble. We just want do do the best job we can so if we can train the staff to be more efficient. We will all be better off.If that's the policy then that's all good - don't want to get anyone in any trouble for something trivial!
Glad to hear you are already on board with the packaging reduction (something that is definitely not limited to kegland!)
When using the RAPT pill please be mindful that your reading can be off for the following reasons:
- High krausen
As the active bubbles that are hitting the hydrometer will put the reding off while you have this very high activity. So you can expect that this would effect the results. Similarly if you have a sample of beer in your conventional hydrometer that is full of carbonation this also puts the readings off as bubbles get stuck on the glass too.
- Stratification
If you drop in a large amount of sugar or water you can get some stratification if it's just sitting in place. For instance if you put in a fresh wort kit and then top up with water it's likely the water is sitting on top and thus if the pill is floating in the higher concentration of water at the top the reading will be off. If you shake up the fermenter vigorously it will generally fix this and give you a more homogenous mix.
- Incorrectly Calibrated
If you have not calibrated the unit we would recommend doing this. If you do the housing up to a different tightness then this can also put off the calibration slightly. In my opinion this is one of the major reasons to move to the wifi charger. If you get the wifi charger then you never have to open the housing and for that reason you also never have to calibrate again.
- Dry hops
If you add dry hops into the fermenter they will look like this for a few days:
As you can imaging no floating hydrometer is going to read this type of situation well.
- Dry crud on the hydrometer
If you have had active fermentation then dry crud sticks to the top of the pill hydrometer. If this stays on the surface of the pill it will typically look like the gravity is higher than it actually is. The simply solution is to shake the fermenter every now and then after high krausen and this will generally wash the chunks off the pill and allow them to sink to the bottom of the fermenter.
So basically if you shake the fermenter a few times and ensure it's properly calibrated you should get quite accurate readings at the end of the fermentation once the fermentation has slowed down.
Yes you are correct. Thanks for fixing that up for me.
Yes the oxygen cylinders will be back in stock in a few weeks. Very sorry about this one the shipping of DG stuff has become very complicated so we have gone from one delay to another on the oxygen cylinders. The new oxygen cylinders will have the same 2.2L size which is the same shape as our 2.2L Nitrogen Cylinders.
perfect - thanks so much for the update.
crowmanz
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Disappointed but glad you are taking the time to get the design right. Other options on the market certainly would look out of place on the bench next to the coffee machine.
Looking to offload the samples at all?
Lolclickeral
Well-Known Member
Cool so tipping all your commerical fermenters like this are listed as working volume with 100L being the smallest
Do these come with fittings or are they bare tanks? Also does the glycol jacket include the cone?
Amr
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Hello! Thank you for this. I can confirm that the calibration is fine (tested it on distilled water) and also that I have not opened it (I am 4 brews in and the battery is a healthy 70+ percent). I did try and shake it to remove the crud but I guess I probably did that after it was well settled. The next time around, will do it more actively after high krausen. Incidentally, I have not really faced problems in readings during high krausen (I am basing this on the fact that I have never seen upward slopes on the graph, as in, once the gravity starts dropping, the graph only slopes downward and doesn't really spike up and down).
Thank you again and will report back after more experiements.
Pan_Kotsky
Member
Hi @KegLand-com-au . Just brewed my first one with 35L gen4. How do I delete unwanted/obsolete mash profiles from the unit? I deleted them on the rapt cloud, but they are still sitting on my Brewzilla. Thanks!
Matthopperman
Active Member
Hi,
Would you recommend this product or it's more-premium counterpart suitable for whirlpooling/aerating your wort: Basic Stainless Steel Drill Powered Mash Stirrer & Mixer - 1/4 Inch Hex Drive or would you say something more purpose-specific for aeration/whirlpooling would work better (i.e. Grainfather Whirlpool And Aeration Brewing Paddle » Aussie Brewmakers which is specifically advertised as aerating)?
Would you recommend this product or it's more-premium counterpart suitable for whirlpooling/aerating your wort: Basic Stainless Steel Drill Powered Mash Stirrer & Mixer - 1/4 Inch Hex Drive or would you say something more purpose-specific for aeration/whirlpooling would work better (i.e. Grainfather Whirlpool And Aeration Brewing Paddle » Aussie Brewmakers which is specifically advertised as aerating)?
Pan_Kotsky
Member
My views may be deemed a little unorthodox by the HB community, so should be taken with a grain of salt. I would suggest neither. Aeration is a myth blindly ported from large commercial production. A friend of mine did actual lab experiment. They aerated 12L of wort in the aeration chamber and then took it to the vacuum chamber and completely degassed it and measured the amount of gas evacuated. It turned out that the amount of air they received was identical to the amount from completely untouched wort. Meaning all the air infused with the special lab equipment was lost to the atmosphere on the way from aeration to to vacuum chamber. Apparently water has a really hard time holding air or oxygen for a prolonged period of time. Whirlpool too, makes a spectacular cone, however, practical use of it is dubious. Any debris that gets to the fermentation vessel will get precipitated by the yeast. The only practical use of any 'whirlpool' device I see is to help with the wort circulation around cooling coil of the immersion chiller. In this case, I would use something system specific. Actually considering getting a 'whirlpool' arm for my new BZ 35.
If you are looking at the conical pressurisable fermenters in this category here:
Commercial Fermenters & Accessories
these all include the pressure gauges, spunding valve, thermowell, new racking arm design etc.
So yes the 100L is the smallest and also has jacketed cone and body of the fermenter. The cone and body have two separate jackets so you can control the temperature independently if you wanted to. I know they are a bit expensive compared with the Brewbuilt tanks but they are a lot more work to build.
I should also say we just modified all the designs to also include an additional 2" TC port at the top of the cone and this can be used for our new TC heating elements that are designed for fermentation heating. We will sell several different TC heating elements in the future in wattages of 125, 500 and 1200 watt. For most customers using these tanks I think the 125 watt will be ample for heating a fermenter.
The aerating is best done when you transfer to your fermenter. This device is a bit cheaper and it does a good job at aeration:
Sergeant Sparge Head - Wort Spreader and Aerator
If you really want something to go on the end of a drill I really think this is the best choice and it's shaped in such a way that it also doesnt scratch the inside of your brewery or fermenter:
Premium Stainless Steel Drill Powered Mash Stirrer & Mixer - 1/4 Inch Hex Drive
This one is a bit more expensive but it's stronger than the "Basic" model that we have and I thing it really does a better job especially if you are using it to stir you mash too.
I would tend to agree with some of this too. I personally think the whirlpool is a waste of time. The BZ false bottom screen will catch 90% and then any small parts that get into the fermenter are not really a significant consideration as they will fall to the bottom of the fermenter pretty quick anyway.
When it comes to aeration I would tend to disagree a little bit with this. If you are boiling your wort you will have close to zero oxygen in the wort if you chill quickly and then drop directly into the fermenter with little exposure to air it will be close to zero ppm. Aeration will definitely help a lot to build the population of yeast cells and with minimal effort you can get the wort up to 6-7ppm which is enough to make a significant difference in how large your yeast population grows up to.
When you say " It turned out that the amount of air they received was identical to the amount from completely untouched wort" can you please explain this part of the experiment? Did you leave the lid open on the vessel for 12hrs or something? What were the test conditions.
Pan_Kotsky
Member
Ok, I just revised my notes from the friend's lecture. The experiment was the following the amount of wort was produced in the lab: boiled and autoclaved. Then it was degassed in the vacuum chamber and transferred into the fermenter with O2 sensor. At that point sensor reading produced about 6.5mg/L. After that wort in the fermenter was aerated for several minutes through a 0.22 micron filter with the constant supply of air at 5 atm. and the mixer running at 1000rpm. After that the reading of the O2 sensor suggested 10 mg/L of dissolved oxygen. 1-1.5 hour later the O2 sensor reading returned back to about 6.5mg/L. All excessive oxygen returned back to the atmosphere.
The reason why large scale commercial breweries using aeration are the following. First, they pitch extremely high doses of yeast to facilitate quick fermentation and aeration allows to use the same yeast for more than one batch (typically twice). Second, aeration is a cheaper way to distribute yeast on the column of liquid compare to using a mechanical mixer..
They also strongly advised against using any oxygenation devices that supply oxygen for a prolonged period of time. They showed that aerobic metabolism of yeast is less energy costly and is always preferable for the yeast (but not for the brewer). Change in the metabolism is always associated with production of fusel alcohols which is not desirable from the brewer's stand point.
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clickeral
Well-Known Member
Any idea when the elements will be out? I'd be buying 2 for existing unis and potentially a couple more
Also is there an eta for stock of the 150L tanks?
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